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I now have the turning radius of the QEII due to lowering my truck. Does switching to disc brakes (which I want to do anyway) widen or shorten the "track width?"
I would like to run stock wheels and tires, but it isn't looking good. I need to find ways to get some more clearance between the tires and fenders. I have fiberglass fenders, so I can't radius them.
Are we talking straight axle front end or IFS? I have the straight axle and did the brake conversion up front to disc. There was very little different on the offset of the wheel as a result of the change. I notice it was slightly in more (to the inner fenders) than stock. If your going to run a stock wheel with disc brakes, you have to a minimum of a 15" rim or the wheel won't fit over the disc brakes. I don't know what you did you lower your truck, but you can always raise it up if it's down too low. If clearance/ turning is a problem, you may want to look at some new rims. 8" wide is the max you want to have on the front. I'm running 7" and have no rubbing issues at all at either turning radius.
Since lowering doesn't affect turning radius I assume you mean you can no longer turn the wheels as much without fender interference. With that 6 inch channel job you will have to look at narrower front wheels or wheels with more offset to the inside and smaller tires. Some disc brake kits do widen the track width by up to an inch so you will have to be careful about which kit you use...
Are we talking straight axle front end or IFS? I have the straight axle and did the brake conversion up front to disc. There was very little different on the offset of the wheel as a result of the change. I notice it was slightly in more (to the inner fenders) than stock. If your going to run a stock wheel with disc brakes, you have to a minimum of a 15" rim or the wheel won't fit over the disc brakes. I don't know what you did you lower your truck, but you can always raise it up if it's down too low. If clearance/ turning is a problem, you may want to look at some new rims. 8" wide is the max you want to have on the front. I'm running 7" and have no rubbing issues at all at either turning radius.
What brake kit did you use? I am running the stock axle, and I would like to use the stock rims with 6.00 16's. I am going to try them first and if that doesn't work then I will get rims to help out. My problem is I can't turn the wheels without them rubbing the fenders.
Thanks,
CHAZ
body looks pretty good in picture...........
i had the thought of F-3 (i think larger fenders) but then re-read you have fiberglass, i assume you want to keep them.
custom back spacing wheels can bring the tire inboard alittle, but you have to be sure of your caliper/tierod etc... clearance.
It's alot of work, but narrowing your axle is another option
Unless you want to have the straight axle narrowed as already suggested what you might consider is converting to a narrower track IFS. An S-10 has a very narrow track. You might have a look at one. Another option might be a MII crossmember kit made for a narrower vehicle.
Hoof- I'm using the CPP kit (classic performance parts). They told me it wouldn't make a differenct as far as offset, etc. I purchased a new set rims with a 4" offset thinking there would be no change. WRONG! My wheels were in more with the disc kit. In fact I had to use a 1/4" spacer plate for the wheels to clear the bearing hub, which put my wheels in just about the position I wanted them at. I can't speak for other brake kits out there, or what my kit would do on a F1 but my truck was that way. I think your rims might work, but you may want to opt for smaller tires. Remember though, the smaller the tire, the lower the stance of the front end also. You want to keep the same height tire but a narrower thread.
I am planning on the CPP kit as well. I am glad to hear that it may in fact help the problem, I thought it would probably make it worse. I am going to go forward the way it is now, and will resort to custom smaller rims and tires if I have to.
CHAZ
I'm looking to do the same thing, also. The PO left the springs and axle, but removed the spindles, draglink,king pins, and tie rods. It left me with no choice but to buy new spindles which I'm hoping to find in a 2" drop. I then need the tie rod kit (through CPP?) and then have to figure out the Toy box pitman arm-to-spindle set-up. By the time it's all done, I wonder if a Jag set-up would be cheaper?
Just to bring this back up in case anyone else is looking into this, Speedway motors has the conversion kit much less (250 vs. 400) than CPP. It looks to have everything included.
If you don't have any experience with Speedway, they have a classic truck catalog, and the best customer service anywhere!
I used the ECI kit on my '49 and am real happy with it. No problems installing and my 15" wheels fit fine. It is 5 on 5.5 BC. I found them to be very helpful when I had questions. See pictures in my gsllery.