I have 2 questions.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: southern Il
I have 2 questions.
#1 I have a meter that reads dc amps. I take my amp draw in series between the pos batt cable and the batt post itself. I am getting .43 amps with everything off. When I open the door I get 1.3 or something like that, from the dome light. Can anyone confirm if this is a normal reading (the .43 reading.). I know there needs to be a little amp draw for the radio memory but dont know what it should be. I have in the past had my new battery not start the truck after about 4 days & I know that there was a power bleed somewhere. This is why I started checking amp draw. I also think that the power bleed may be intermintent. Thank You.
#2 I looked at my timing mark & indicator thingy & the air pump blocks this. Why? I see know way to check the timing the way it is right now. Also when standing in front of the engine which way do I turn the dizzy to advance, cw or ccw. Thanks Todd.
#2 I looked at my timing mark & indicator thingy & the air pump blocks this. Why? I see know way to check the timing the way it is right now. Also when standing in front of the engine which way do I turn the dizzy to advance, cw or ccw. Thanks Todd.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,289
Likes: 6
From: Lakewood, Ohio
remove spout hook up timing light, point it at damper, after you see marks, shut off engine and clean and mark the marks with crayon and then check timing.
you did not say what engine but the marks are not that hidden.
you did not say what engine but the marks are not that hidden.
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 1
From: Solon, Ohio
Take off distributor cap, and see which way the rotor is turning. Turn your distributor in the oposite direction to advance.
Although I havn't checked mine, .43 which is close to half an amp ...sounds a little high.
Sometimes batterys have internal leakage and discharge themselves.
If your going to have your truck sit idle for a few days, just disconnect one of the battery terminals for the few days and see if that is it.
Although I havn't checked mine, .43 which is close to half an amp ...sounds a little high.
Sometimes batterys have internal leakage and discharge themselves.
If your going to have your truck sit idle for a few days, just disconnect one of the battery terminals for the few days and see if that is it.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 840
Likes: 1
From: Poquoson Va.
Turn distributer clockwise to advance. Air pump is not in the way. The hole is not the line up mark. I thought the same thing but it is the farthest part of the bracket towards the centerline of the engine,straght edge. Thats the way my 93 F-150 351W is.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: southern Il
Thanks guys. I'll look at it closer for the timing mark. I have already cleaned & marked the lines. Now back to my main concern. I think .43 amps is a bit high myself. The battery is new, & is the second new one. The first one was bad. Can someone check their amp draw with the truck not running & with the door closed if possible. I still think it may be in the ignition cylinder. Sometimes the door chime works & sometimes not. If its not working & I hit the steering column it will come on.Thanks Todd.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: southern Il
Well I went out today & checked it after not starting it for 4 days the volts are 11.8. Any Ideas? When I started this test, batt voltage was at 13.4.
Trending Topics
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 1
From: Solon, Ohio
Todd, 13.4 is a bogus reading......either engine was running and was charging, or your meter was off.
A fully charged battery sitting idle with nothing connected should read around 12.75 volts.
I just checked my truck and made the following observations.
With the cable disconnected, I touched the cable end and the battery terminal with my meter in the 10 amp position. It momentarily had a .46 or so draw and then dropped to nothing no matter how long I kept it connected. I then disconnected for a while and as soon as I touched it again, .46 for a second then it dropped to nothing.
I repeated this several times to make sure that I wasn't just not connecting reliably.
I then switched my meter to the 200 ma mode and when connected it pegged for a while (probably .46 amp), then dropped to 6.5 ma. It stayed at 6.5 ma no matter how long I kept it connected. If I disconnected it for about 30 seconds or so, it would peg again when reconnected, then drop to 6.5 ma.
So I would say it should only draw that .4x amp for about a second, then only load your battery at 6.5 ma continuously.
If you have a continuous never ending draw of .4x amp then you do have a problem and it's probably not your battery.
A fully charged battery sitting idle with nothing connected should read around 12.75 volts.
I just checked my truck and made the following observations.
With the cable disconnected, I touched the cable end and the battery terminal with my meter in the 10 amp position. It momentarily had a .46 or so draw and then dropped to nothing no matter how long I kept it connected. I then disconnected for a while and as soon as I touched it again, .46 for a second then it dropped to nothing.
I repeated this several times to make sure that I wasn't just not connecting reliably.
I then switched my meter to the 200 ma mode and when connected it pegged for a while (probably .46 amp), then dropped to 6.5 ma. It stayed at 6.5 ma no matter how long I kept it connected. If I disconnected it for about 30 seconds or so, it would peg again when reconnected, then drop to 6.5 ma.
So I would say it should only draw that .4x amp for about a second, then only load your battery at 6.5 ma continuously.
If you have a continuous never ending draw of .4x amp then you do have a problem and it's probably not your battery.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: southern Il
netscaner. I appreciate the detailed explanation. Is ma micro or milli. I cant remember. Yes it stays at .43a. Also when I connect my positive cable or even when I check the amps with the 10a setting I hear a relay & a humm that sounds like the fuel pump. I'm wondering if the fuel pump isnt energizing & thats whats running down the batt. That is what leads me to think it may be the ign cyl. What do you think? Thanks Todd.
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 1
From: Solon, Ohio
ma stands for milliamp.....one one thousanth.
I don't think it's the ignition cylinder, but maybe the ignition switch.
You might try hooking up your meter and pull fuses one at a time to find the .4x draw.
If it was your fuel pump being energized, it would only run for a few seconds till up to pressure.
I don't think it's the ignition cylinder, but maybe the ignition switch.
You might try hooking up your meter and pull fuses one at a time to find the .4x draw.
If it was your fuel pump being energized, it would only run for a few seconds till up to pressure.
Last edited by netscaner; Jun 19, 2007 at 03:15 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: southern Il
well, heres what I found. Last week I tried pulling all the fuses & the .43 stayed. This is why I was stumped. Yesterday I had alot of time to look at it so I installed my gauge pod & gauges. While working I was thinking that it had to be a seperate circuit that had its own fuse. I started looking around & found one such circuit. Cruise Control. It didnt work, at least thats what the previous owner said. I pulled the whole thing out. I think it was an aftermarket anyways. I figured if the thing didnt work why have it in the way. After pulling it I checked with the meter and now no amps were present. I hope this is the fix. Thanks for all your help. Anyone know where to get a new turn signal handle? Would it be in the Help section?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 537
Likes: 1
From: Formerly Nawlins
LMC Truck probably has it, or try 1stfordparts.com. I had a similar battery problem a few weeks ago with a Camry I just got ... turns out the keys were so worn out they came out of the ignition without being in the off position, a few times I reached in turned the key off, pressed the release and pulled the key .... that left it in the ACC1 position ... not the one that let the radio stay on but the one that kept the ECU hot and the clock on. I know I have left my radar detector on in my parked truck for a solid week and have been able to start it.