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Replacing rotors, 1979 F250 with front D60.
Got the caliper and lockers off, now my trusty haynes is telling em to go get some specialty sockets.
Is it recommended to buy the proper socket or do most of you losen it the axle nut with a punch and hammer?
I would strongly recommend to just go get the socket...it is a very very inexpensive investment and will prevent you from dinging up the other threads for the hub assembly...it only costs about....$20-$25 at your local autoparts store. Like my uncle alway told me..." if yer gonna go to work...don't do a sloppy job."....so yeah just purchase the right socket.
ya buy the socket just got done taking mine out on a 74 there is two nuts outer then an indexing ring that has a bunch of little holes in it then another nut with a little tab that goes in the holes. get it it helps try to find a friend that has one
Punching the nut loose is what you do if you're either on the road without the right tools, in a jam, or if you need the money for baby formula and can't afford to buy the right tools.
If you aint got kids on baby formula, and you aint on the road, or just aint plain deperate, then bite the bullit and buy the tool.
And yes, I am speaking from experience. I have used a hammer and screwdriver. But if I could have afforded the socket, I certainly would have made that my priority. Much easier in the long run, and less chance of screwing something else up. I now have in my tool box a spindle socket.
Good Luck, Tim
Last edited by olfordsnstone; Jun 15, 2007 at 10:41 PM.
Some places like Auto Zone may loan you the proper tool for a refundable deposit. If you depend on the truck - it's worth doing it right. Replacing parts ? I'd recommend replacing BOTH sides. - The right side going out means the left ain't far behind. A bit more trouble now but a lot less trouble later.
ya buy the socket just got done taking mine out on a 74 there is two nuts outer then an indexing ring that has a bunch of little holes in it then another nut with a little tab that goes in the holes. get it it helps try to find a friend that has one
The Dana 60 is a little different than the Dana 44. The Dana 60 has 2 hex shaped nuts (much larger than the 44 nuts), and a large washer with tabs (the tabs are bent downward to lock the outer nut) that's sandwiched between them. you will need to use a punch to bend the tabs back and away from the nut, then use the proper socket to remove the nuts.
The Dana 60 is a little different than the Dana 44. The Dana 60 has 2 hex shaped nuts (much larger than the 44 nuts), and a large washer with tabs (the tabs are bent downward to lock the outer nut) that's sandwiched between them. you will need to use a punch to bend the tabs back and away from the nut, then use the proper socket to remove the nuts.
Yea I just figured this out, but whoever did this the last time didnt bend the tabs down so the nuts where lose and came out easy. Gonna get a socket to put them back.
It's a little tough to bend the tabs back down when you put it back together, I use a long prybar that has a head like a screwdriver, and slide it in on an angle, and pry on one corner of the tab. Once I get a corner of the tab bent down, I come straight in with the prybar and pry the whole tab down, using the outer hub as a fulcrum
ey sorry about the information yes that was for a D44 and i have the 60 socket too from a friend with a dodge so i just thought the bigger one is for the D60 sorry guys
May be a 'too late' post . . . I'd recommend tightening the nuts down with a torque wrench. Just what I do - I've seen a few come loose from "hurry", and a couple that were almost wrecked later when they were tightened too much. Common sence should prevail if you like your truck - like most of us do.
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