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Im not a real expert, but thers a pressure switch. You can cut the wires to it to bypass it. The compressor will run all the time when the a/c is on though. Thats what I did on my stealth.
if the compressor is kicking out usually that means it's low on freon..i would bypas the low pressure switch and see if it comes on..don't run it too long that way you could burn up the compressor..if it comes on that way,i would add some freon, to see if it gets cold if so then you probably have a leak somewhere.. do you know if it has r-12 or r-134a?
Yeah, the major leak areas are those spring-couplers like on the fuel lines on the fuel-injected 2.9, the o-rings, and the compressor seals. More than likely, unless it's been retrofitted, it's R-12, which is pretty expensive to come by (I saw an ad for a case for like $350 or something once). Best bet is to get the retrofit parts kit and all new o-rings and all the stuff needed to basically do an overhaul on all of the seals, etc., then purge it and charge it with R-134a. Normally, the compressor kicks on and off to maintain the pressure / temperature where it needs to be, but if it kicks on and then back off and doesn't kick back on, then you're low on refrigerant. It took me one large "quickie-charge" bottle and part of a smaller bottle to get my Nissan recharged yesterday evening (or earlier tonight, whichever works!). Hope this helps.
I put some stuff called SNOOP on the O-rings, its basically a soap surfactant that bubbles if theres a leak..I couldnt find a leak on the o-rings but if its leaking from the compressor seals does that mean the ones where it hooks up or something internal? By the way ive charged it with Freeze 12 similar to R12 but dont need a license. Cost ~8 bucks a can i think.
Some auto parts stores sell the retrofit kits that come with the can of R-134/134a. As far as seals and o-rings, pretty much everywhere there is a hose connection in the system.