1989 Ford Bronco XLT 5.8L Automatic 4x4 ~130k miles

This Bronco is for sale locally, and I think I can get it for $2500. It doesn't have any rust or body damage, clean CARFAX, and the original white paint still shines and is all intact.

It drives out good, transmission shifts good, no strange noises or anything from anywhere. Has a good set of Michelin's on it. Probably another 30k-40k left on them.

4x4 works great. It has power everything (cruise, windows, all works), brakes are good, and the steering is tight. Doesn't pull or anything.

Interior is clean as a whistle and the captain's chairs and rear bench are in good condition. It also has an ice cold air conditioner.

I guess I've pretty much sold the thing-- I've never had a big Bronco, but $2500 seems like a fair deal to me, especially considering the shape it's in.

The reason I'm posting is because I'm curious, though--

Did these Bronco's have any problems that I need to aware of? I've owned many, many F150's and have never had any major problems with the drivetrains.

I guess, in this case, I'm mainly talking about structural integrity and the rear top. Are they common to leak or cause any other problems? How hard is the top to remove?

Thanks for any tips or advice!

Nightrain

 

They are essentially the same as an F-150. They have a couple problem spots, like the rear window motor, but other than that they are very solid trucks. If the top was never removed, it won't leak. If the top was removed, stored, and replaced correctly, it won't leak.

 

Sounds good to me. 130K is low mileage. I would pull the air filter to see if oil is in the bottom of air box indicating possible blow by. Check the rear window and t-gate operation. A little rust at the bottom of tailgate adds character. Top can be removed but it's quite heavy. Adding a rack is possible but challenging. I prefer a trailer. Tops do not leak but cracks in B pillar up high might. You have probably looked for water in the oil and oil in the coolant? If the hubs are automatic they may need replacing with Warn Premium about $100 if DIY.

 

Thanks for the replies, ya'll.

I'm going back tomorrow to check it over good once again.

Since it already has the hitch on it, and I've got two trailers that just sit anyway, I'll pull one of them if I need to haul anything. Pulling a trailer adds character, also! lol.

The cracks in the B-pillar you speak of, b4hntn... Are those from structural damage or factory? Haven't got up high and looked yet. (This is the first Bronco I've been around).

BTW, I checked for oil in coolant and coolant in oil-- didn't see anything. Took it on a 40-mile test drive and drove it hard. Checked it when I got back, and everything was still good.

Thanks again!

Nightrain

 

the cracks are caused by stress and thin sheet metal. i owned a 89 and sold it when it was nearing 200k. ran solid. the 5.8 is THE engine for the newer bronco's so your getting the best of the best imo. If automatic it will ave the bulletproof c6 tranny.

let us know if you end up with it as there are some good things to know about upkeep and rust prevention. If the tailgate isn't rused at all you want to keep it that way!!!

 

Amen! to all.

 

Thanks for the additional information, ya'll.

I will have to climb up when I go back and check for cracks. lol.

Thanks again. I'll let ya'll know how it turns out.

Nightrain

 

In 1989 it could also have the first-year E4OD.

 

You do not need to climb to find the cracks they will be right at the back endof the rain gutters if they are there. Just got done tryingf to repair mine. LOTS of JB since I do not have the welding skills to weld the thin sheet...or any welding skill for that matter.

It is a BRONCO thing, the worst part is the squeeking from the B pillar.

 

I was just fixing to ask if the cracks were repairable...

So, for that matter, they're nothing really serious? Just basically a cosmetic issue?

Nightrain

 

If you are in the rust belt they will leak into the bottum of the B pillar and rust it from the inside. A lot of guys have just run a bead of silicon into the cracks to prevent that. Less work than I did but I was real tired of the squeeking. Result of no top for years and WAY to much flexing on the rocks.

 

Welp, went back and checked it out once again...

I found a few things this time that I didn't notice the first time. For one, the Bronco had the C6 instead of the E4OD (no big deal, I was just expecting it to have overdrive). And for two, when I checked the 4x4 again, I noticed that something felt a little strange this time. I locked it in low and putted around his back yard. I paid a bit more attention this time, and I didn't get the feeling of the front wheels getting power, so I hopped out, put the trans in 1st, left the t-case in low, and let it roll along to see what I could see. For some reason or another, the front driveshaft wasn't getting power. It wasn't spinning at all. The shifter engaged firmly and all, and it looked to be in the right spot on the t-case. So all of that turned on a red beacon, and I left it in his front yard.

Not to mention, he wouldn't come down off of his $2,900 price like I thought he would. He was solid as a rock on it.

It hurt to walk away, but to me, it was best since I was unsure about the t-case.

But, I lucked up... I drove a different way back home, and spotted another Bronco for sale. I stopped to take a peek and fell for it. Old man came outside with the keys and I gave her the once-over. 351, E4OD, ~160k miles, power everything w/ cruise, etc. Basically the same as the 1st Bronco I posted about, only this one is a 1991, has OD, and about 30k more miles. I drove it, and I'm back in Bronco Heaven again.

Here's the only thing... The old man (he's about 70-75) and his son started repairing some of the rust on the truck. They put on a new tailgate and painted it to match. It looks real good. The original red paint still shines, and all of the clear is still there. The only other place with rust is the usual Ford fender-rot. There's about 1/4" of sheet metal rusted-through on each rear flank on the fender lip. But, I've got an uncle who works magic with auto-body, and I can get the two steel replacement panels from LMC Truck for $40 per side.

Other than that, it's just in as good of shape as the other Bronco. Except, this one is $1500.

Since it has the fender lip rust, is there any other rust I should check for? I didn't notice any cracks on the B-pillar or anything, but do I need to pull an interior panel and check the inside?

Thanks again, ya'll!

Nightrain

 

For that price and with your rust fix connection it look like a great deal. One thought...the original owner of my '94 said Ford recalled and upgraded the E4OD during the first year. You might ask if that was done or is available from Ford if not. I have read here the E4OD replacement may be as high as $3,000 but it is a tough transmission so don't want to scare you, just a heads up. To me the E4OD is the best tramsmission I have ever had.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the transmission. I'll get in touch with my dealer and see what turns up, just in case.

I had a 1992 F150 4x4 with the 351 and E4OD, and you're right as rain... The E4OD is one tough '*****.

BTW, I didn't know that BroncoGraveyard.com had SOOO much stuff! I'll be buying my replacement panels from them.

Is there anything else that I need to look for on this Bronco before I dive in?

Thanks again! Ya'll are a great help!

Nightrain

 

you might search the forum for the broncograveyard (use graveyard as key word) just to become fully infomed as some have had issues. I will order smaller stuff from them if it's most convenient...I'd guess many have not had issues with them.

Good to see you have a bronco in the driveway. As far as rust you never know where it may pop through...floor pans and rear storage can be an issue as can cab corners and doors and and and.

Whatever areas are good should be treated with metal ready and coated to keep the rust away. metal ready is a POR product that kills forming rust and leaves a zink oxide coating that is sacrificial to the electrical current (electrolysis) that causes or is needed for rust.

other treatments may convert the rust but not leave the ink residue. POR 15 is available on ebay or paint store. Eastwood may have something comparable.