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I generaly plug off or disconect all vacuum lines. And leave the PVC, Hydrovac, and Dizzy vacuum. Retune the carb and retime by ear and they run fine. But thats just me. I'm sure I'll catch some slack about this but I'm getting used to it. The main thing is to make sure ya don't have any vacuum leaks and the dizzy is pluged to the port on the carb that has no vacuum at idle. Passenger side bottom front I beleive. Take the smog pump off if it's still got one and just plug off what ya don't need to make it run. That which I said before. Ya need only thous three things hooked up.
Heh, since noone attacked you over this I guess it's alright then?
Ok, so basically distributor to carburetor.. what's a hydrovac? and for the PCV. the hose coming out of my oil cap and valve cover, those both just go into the air filter housing, right?
My truck ran and idled nicely even with all of these connections off, though it might have lacked some power.
Like I said, I don't care about emissions, I just want to make sure there are no leaks, there's nothing hurting power, etc.
Hydrovac is the Brake booster. One more vacuum that ya need if ya have an auto trans is to the modulator on the back of the trans. Should be a rubber hose hooked to a steel line running back over the bellhousing to tranny. Sounds like ya are good to go. Happy wheeling.
Heh, since noone attacked you over this I guess it's alright then?
Ok, so basically distributor to carburetor.. what's a hydrovac? and for the PCV. the hose coming out of my oil cap and valve cover, those both just go into the air filter housing, right?
My truck ran and idled nicely even with all of these connections off, though it might have lacked some power.
Like I said, I don't care about emissions, I just want to make sure there are no leaks, there's nothing hurting power, etc.
"No One" (2 words) attacked him...because this is the bare bones vacuum system.
When My truck went off warranty the forst thing I did was yank all the emissions crap off the engine.
It really depends on whether your area has emissions testing or not.
I can post an illustration of what they did in 1973 for vacuum lines if you want.
Thanks Dennis that would help him for sure. It's really a simple thing. For decent power I would suggest replacing the timing set with an after market strait up set. As his mileage sounds like it's ready. And this is the best mod for a 351M/400. Better to do it know than when it brakes or jumps time and takes out some hard parts. Also an easy job for a DIY guy. The set comes with better directions than the manuals.
"No One" (2 words) attacked him...because this is the bare bones vacuum system.
When My truck went off warranty the forst thing I did was yank all the emissions crap off the engine.
It really depends on whether your area has emissions testing or not.
I can post an illustration of what they did in 1973 for vacuum lines if you want.
I shouldn't fault you for not knowing but I made "noone" (without a space) an official word a couple of years ago. I think it just looks better that way, so there's that.
and the 73' diagram would be great, that's what I want. If I ever move to California I'll run the emission setup, until then, there's no reason to bother.
Oh, the hydrovac thing might explain this weird brake issue I was having.. when I would hit the brake at idle, my idle RPMs woul change, that's a vacuum leak isn't it?
Yeah, I've been trying to tell the big dictionaries about my official adding of the word, they haven't been very cooperative, something about me not making the rules or some garbage, I dunno.
Anyways, so THAT is what that big can is? It's just sitting there wasting space under the hood.
This, right? on the driver's side? It has a hose coming out of it but I don't think it goes anywhere.. I just need to check it..
This has definitely been a lot of help, I'll go see if I can do anything with it tomorrow.
Currently trying to figure out a starter problem at the moment (*click*, starter is fine.. either the relay/selenoid or a wire) and it's on ramps making it hard to see under the hood.
edit: I really am sorry about all the mud..
see it coming up through the hole for my 4wd shifter? we went pretty deep.. ruined my new interior and I had just heavily degreased the engine and did a good cleaning with a pressure sprayer all around.
edit No.2: I forgot to say thanks, I appreciate all the help. Those 73' diagrams look easy enough, I just hope I don't get confused when I go out there to check on it.
I think it just clicked with me, finally.. now I think I can ask questions that you may be able to answer
Tell me if I have this right, the PVS, like you said, just manages vacuum while the temperature changes. I basically have "On" (vacuum?) and "off" ports on the PVS
I really *dont* want my distributor running off of intake vacuum all the time because it will run weird when it warms up, right (or when it's cool cool, not sure which)?
In that, is the one on the left the PVS (PVS should be two ports) and the one on the right an amplifier by any chance? (amp should be 6, I only see 3) if not, what is the yellow one on the right? That's all I need to know and I think I know 100% how to hook everything up.
I have the vacuum canister, egr valve, no EGR port on the carb, PVS.. sadly, I don't even know if I have brake boosters.. and then that yellow thing, which I'm hoping is vacuum amp.