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Help with vacuum lines.

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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 10:56 PM
  #16  
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That's a VCV that I mentioned in Post #9
 
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 01:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by arctic y block
I generaly plug off or disconect all vacuum lines. And leave the PVC, Hydrovac, and Dizzy vacuum. Retune the carb and retime by ear and they run fine. But thats just me. I'm sure I'll catch some slack about this but I'm getting used to it. The main thing is to make sure ya don't have any vacuum leaks and the dizzy is pluged to the port on the carb that has no vacuum at idle. Passenger side bottom front I beleive. Take the smog pump off if it's still got one and just plug off what ya don't need to make it run. That which I said before. Ya need only thous three things hooked up.
Heh, since noone attacked you over this I guess it's alright then?

Ok, so basically distributor to carburetor.. what's a hydrovac? and for the PCV. the hose coming out of my oil cap and valve cover, those both just go into the air filter housing, right?

My truck ran and idled nicely even with all of these connections off, though it might have lacked some power.

Like I said, I don't care about emissions, I just want to make sure there are no leaks, there's nothing hurting power, etc.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 01:33 PM
  #18  
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arctic y block
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Hydrovac is the Brake booster. One more vacuum that ya need if ya have an auto trans is to the modulator on the back of the trans. Should be a rubber hose hooked to a steel line running back over the bellhousing to tranny. Sounds like ya are good to go. Happy wheeling.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 01:46 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ErrorS
Heh, since noone attacked you over this I guess it's alright then?

Ok, so basically distributor to carburetor.. what's a hydrovac? and for the PCV. the hose coming out of my oil cap and valve cover, those both just go into the air filter housing, right?

My truck ran and idled nicely even with all of these connections off, though it might have lacked some power.

Like I said, I don't care about emissions, I just want to make sure there are no leaks, there's nothing hurting power, etc.

"No One" (2 words) attacked him...because this is the bare bones vacuum system.
When My truck went off warranty the forst thing I did was yank all the emissions crap off the engine.

It really depends on whether your area has emissions testing or not.

I can post an illustration of what they did in 1973 for vacuum lines if you want.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 01:59 PM
  #20  
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
Thanks Dennis that would help him for sure. It's really a simple thing. For decent power I would suggest replacing the timing set with an after market strait up set. As his mileage sounds like it's ready. And this is the best mod for a 351M/400. Better to do it know than when it brakes or jumps time and takes out some hard parts. Also an easy job for a DIY guy. The set comes with better directions than the manuals.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 03:32 PM
  #21  
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Give this a whiz if you decide on keeping the emmission setup http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/e6/05/0900823d800ce605/repairInfoPages.htm
Might have a the shcematics?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 05:38 PM
  #22  
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His is the actual vacuum routing in Green Uncle Buck
 
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 10:28 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
When My truck went off warranty the forst thing I did was yank all the emissions crap off the engine.
Wait, what? I thought Canada trucks were exempt from the emission package?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 11:07 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
"No One" (2 words) attacked him...because this is the bare bones vacuum system.
When My truck went off warranty the forst thing I did was yank all the emissions crap off the engine.

It really depends on whether your area has emissions testing or not.

I can post an illustration of what they did in 1973 for vacuum lines if you want.
I shouldn't fault you for not knowing but I made "noone" (without a space) an official word a couple of years ago. I think it just looks better that way, so there's that.

and the 73' diagram would be great, that's what I want. If I ever move to California I'll run the emission setup, until then, there's no reason to bother.

Oh, the hydrovac thing might explain this weird brake issue I was having.. when I would hit the brake at idle, my idle RPMs woul change, that's a vacuum leak isn't it?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 11:27 PM
  #25  
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Noone a new recognized word ?

New one on me. ; )


http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/noone.


Idle drop :

Is the vacuum reservoir hooked up with a vacuum hose ?

That big black can shown in the green illustration.



Canada had emissions in 78 ....but NOT-Catalyst systems.

Mine had the air pump and all that as well.


73 emissions.

 
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 12:37 AM
  #26  
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Yeah, I've been trying to tell the big dictionaries about my official adding of the word, they haven't been very cooperative, something about me not making the rules or some garbage, I dunno.

Anyways, so THAT is what that big can is? It's just sitting there wasting space under the hood.



This, right? on the driver's side? It has a hose coming out of it but I don't think it goes anywhere.. I just need to check it..

This has definitely been a lot of help, I'll go see if I can do anything with it tomorrow.
Currently trying to figure out a starter problem at the moment (*click*, starter is fine.. either the relay/selenoid or a wire) and it's on ramps making it hard to see under the hood.

edit: I really am sorry about all the mud..



see it coming up through the hole for my 4wd shifter? we went pretty deep.. ruined my new interior and I had just heavily degreased the engine and did a good cleaning with a pressure sprayer all around.

edit No.2: I forgot to say thanks, I appreciate all the help. Those 73' diagrams look easy enough, I just hope I don't get confused when I go out there to check on it.
 

Last edited by ErrorS; Jun 14, 2007 at 12:41 AM.
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 12:42 AM
  #27  
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 12:46 AM
  #28  
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This may be easier to read.

But realize you don't even need all this either.

Just the basics.

You do need that reservoir hooked up though..
It will help your AC work better.


 
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 04:35 AM
  #29  
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I think it just clicked with me, finally.. now I think I can ask questions that you may be able to answer

Tell me if I have this right, the PVS, like you said, just manages vacuum while the temperature changes. I basically have "On" (vacuum?) and "off" ports on the PVS

I really *dont* want my distributor running off of intake vacuum all the time because it will run weird when it warms up, right (or when it's cool cool, not sure which)?

Look what I found, I don't think I have ever seen it layed out any better.
http://autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/5b/80/0900823d800a5b80/repairInfoPages.htm



Ok, so where is my vacuum amplifier?


In that, is the one on the left the PVS (PVS should be two ports) and the one on the right an amplifier by any chance? (amp should be 6, I only see 3) if not, what is the yellow one on the right? That's all I need to know and I think I know 100% how to hook everything up.

I have the vacuum canister, egr valve, no EGR port on the carb, PVS.. sadly, I don't even know if I have brake boosters.. and then that yellow thing, which I'm hoping is vacuum amp.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2007 | 09:27 AM
  #30  
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The yellow thing is the PVS as well. There is TWO PVS on the water neck.

The amplifier is an entirely different thing. Oftentimes, it can be found on the back of the engine.
 
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