used a Power Washer with the Wet Sandblaster Attachment? How did it do, Body Panels, Frame, Skin, Etc.

I checked the Body/Paint forum on this one----- Has anyone used the new Duplicolor "Paint Shop" laquer system? No mixing/thinners/reducers/hardners.
Primer, Color, Clearcoat. Stir, strain and shoot. $20.00 per Qt. reshoot anytime.
Too good to be true?

 

Lacquer? I thought it was dead as a paint system. The shine doesn't last, but can be buffed repeatedly. Haven't heard of the DupliColor system.

 

I saw this on Trucks Sunday. Was wondering about it myself. It would be a cheep way go if it was any good. ............RUSTY

 

Ok so I'm an Old -art.

When this project first started I wanted to build in the Style of the 50/60's Hot Rod had there been Hot Rod Trucks then.
Then came Rat Rods, away went my idea.
I don't want a 10K paint job that I'm afraid to take any where.

This seems like a good middle ground amd low maintenence.

 

I'm of the same opinion (cheap a$$), but I did a car in lacquer (not Duplicolor) 20 yrs ago, and it made such a mess of the garage that I vowed to never do it again. I paid to have a "plain-jane" enamel job done on my truck. The lacquer didn't hold up well around the Rockies, lots of little pieces of pulverized granite in the wind that take out a chunk of paint evry place they hit. Easy to touch up (white car) but I got tired of it.

 

Dick,

Read through this forum;
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

......I know, I know, it deals with MOPAR guys and their rides but the information (and the process) is very interesting

Bobby

 

WOW are there really that may people in the World wth NOPARTs?

I read another thread somewhere where someone tried this, they were up to 10 coats with sanding to get good coverage. Sounds like work to me.

 

Dick,

Yup, the MOPAR guys are pretty prevelant..........

The same paint could be applied with regular spray techniques. It would be no different than painting a piece of machinery, tractor, etc. The price is right (especially for a tightwad like me)

Bobby

 

Dick,

Are you planning to spray the paint yourself? I you are I would stay away from the laquer, like stated before it's not very good. If you're looking for a cheap paint I am going to spray my F-4, if I ever get it done, with Valspar tractor restoration paint from the local farm supply store. I have used other Valspar products before with very good results. I sprayed my 8N tractor last year with Valspar's regular line of paint, with their hardener, and the paint holds up line iron. The tractor restoration paint is suppose to be higher quality and comes as a full line product with reducer and hardener. The paint dries relatively quick, with the hardener, and looks good. The only advantage I can see with laquer is it dries fast, that's why we still used it back in the early '80s in the body shop I worked in. We could blend and buff it into a quarter panel. The big disadvantage was it didn't last plus if you sprayed it on a humid day it would dry too fast and look cloudy.

Another alternative is to do all of the body work and take it to one of the cheap chain paint companies like Maaco. I knew a body shop that would do this if a customer was too cheap to have them spray their car. Maaco can spray an entire car for less than what a body shop pays just for the materials. Most of the chain places can hose on a decent coat of paint as long as you do all of the prep work and masking or removing of all the trim. The chain places tend to use a DA to do all of the sanding and whatever they can't get to with the DA, like tight corners and lips, don't get touched. Also, if you leave trim on it may get masked and it may not or it might be hit by the DA as they're "prepping" the body.

 

I saw that water/media blast rig on the "PowerBlock" Muscle Car segement last weekend where Lou was cleaning a Pontiac Frame. It didn't appear to help too much. It certainly didn't clean up like regular sand blasting.