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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 11:02 AM
  #16  
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Mike F250
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in the mean time, do a google search on Rust Mort or Rust-Mort. I've used this a few times and have been happy with the results. Follow cautions on label. They know what they are talking about when they say to wear a respirator and clean surfaces prior to painting.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 11:04 AM
  #17  
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NS F250
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From: SE WI
You know what's funny, all winter long I drove past this guy's house and he had a white box sitting in his front yard for sale. It must have sat there for 3 or 4 months, but I haven't seen it lately. I think I'll have to take a look under my '02.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 11:09 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Mike F250
in the mean time, do a google search on Rust Mort or Rust-Mort. I've used this a few times and have been happy with the results. Follow cautions on label. They know what they are talking about when they say to wear a respirator and clean surfaces prior to painting.
can get same thing a paint store called Ospho or phosfhoric acid maybe phosforic
 
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 12:51 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by clintbonnie
I think you should still try and get some kind of help of Ford.. even though it is slightly over the time limit..After all the rust was certainly there 6 months ago.. right? Also, i would double check your oil pan.. read alot of posts about oil leakage from rusty pans.. Sure glad they don't use that much salt out here in Seattle..
Ive looked at it, and surprisingly enough, its still purty. Ive been watching mine ever since ive started to notice on our early 99 start to rust.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 09:31 PM
  #20  
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Well I wish I would have taken pictures for the during part, and Id surely like to murder the inventor of the spot welder, but I drilled out all the spot welds, removed the cross members, and replaced them with 5" wide 3/16 plate, to disperse the load on top of 2 1/2 inch box (1/4 wall), 2 inch box (1/4) wall, and 1 1/2 inch box (1/4 wall). Rust through is no longer an issue. each crossmember is a half inch lower then the previous. I have to say it was a royal pain to remove the factory crossmembers, but all in all I think it turned out for the better. They rhino lined the bottom, inside, and a little extra as you can see from the pictures. When I saw it I didnt think it was my truck at first, with the black "two tone" look, it really made the white appear to be whiter, and newer.





 

Last edited by rebelchevy02; Jun 27, 2007 at 09:33 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 10:39 PM
  #21  
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WOW I like that!!!! I might have to get mine done as well now. I wonder how much that will cost seeing as I have about 4 more feet of truck than you.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 10:46 PM
  #22  
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Well it cost a whole lot more then what I thought it would be. For the underside, and inside of the bed, outside of the truck, inside of the doors, all the labor to remove the doors to get behind there, and remove the bed, do under it, reinstall everything, came out to just under 1500 smackers. I really didnt think id would be that much, but it is what it is. And it had to be pretty labor intensive. That and it make the truck look newer, and I didnt have to attempt paint.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 01:12 AM
  #23  
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I think it was well worth it
 
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 07:54 AM
  #24  
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that looks hot man, glad you did it, like I said NEVER worry about it again. It looks freakin awsome
 
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 08:43 AM
  #25  
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Sharp, very sharp. Now the question is, could you have gotten a new bed for 1500?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2007 | 03:28 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cangim
Sharp, very sharp. Now the question is, could you have gotten a new bed for 1500?
Nope, there was two people that called me back with beds. One was red for 2k, the other i dont remember color, and it was 1800, with the crossmembers starting to show rust. So my labor, probably 200 worth of metal, and 1500 in coating should = a lot longer lasting bed. It really does make the truck stand out.
 
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