When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First off, THANK YOU to this site and all the useful information the members contibute. This is my first post but I have been lurking around for a while.
Sometime back it was recommended that a spare CPS be put in the glove box because it would be needed. Guess what, this past weekend (80,000 K on the truck) the truck would die then restart or would just stumble under load. Told my wife that it was time to put in that spare part she kept asking about in the glove box. She wanted to know how I knew that but I just let her think I new my stuff.
10 minutes later, problem solved. Thanks guys!
Now, based on reading other posts, its about time to change the batteries as the truck cranks for quite a while (10 secs) before it fires. What do you think?
Thanks for the advice. I will eventualy figure out how to edit my signature so all of the relevent information will be displayed. Like, 2003 F250 4X4 SuperCrew, Edge w/Attitude, etc.
You can also go to Napa and get a battery Hydrometer (about $20 and easy to use) and check each cell by removing the vent caps.. My boat battery was cranking slow and i used my hydrometer and found 1 cell was bad.. My original batteries in my 99 are still going strong.. amazingly
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't think that the starter is cranking slowly (hard to remember how fast it used to spin) but it seems to have to crank a little longer than it used to. However, I think that I will have the batteries checked especially before I replace them.
I would first clean your battery terminals and then go have your batteries load tested, make sure that they are tested seperately.
I'm pretty new also, I have a 99 PSD 7.3 what is, and where is the HPOP. I've seen that term used but uncertain of what it is. I've ordered a CSP due to symptoms I've had and others as well. I sure hope that's it. It's bazzar that in checking prices of a cps I found NAPA at $55, Kragens at $179, one ford dealer at $190, and eBay at $22...
I would presume the suggestion for testing your batteries separately is to disconnect one while testing the other. That's how I took it. Do you recall if your tach was jumping after the engine died but the key was still on? I had that happen as well as a clicking noise. A post suggested the batteries might have a dead cell or are weak which was a result of numerous attempts to start due to what I hope is just a bad CPS. Other than this little glitch the truck has been great. CJ
Let me give this a shot. The HPOP is the High Pressure Oil Pump and is located right in front of the fuel filter. There is an allen head plug on the top and if I understand correctly, the oil level in the reservoir must be maintained by the system or it will take a little while to build up enough oil/pressure to work the injectors. It seems there is a check valve/drain in the bottom that can possibly cause the oil in the reservoir to drain out resulting in slow starting or longer cranking. If I'm explaining this incorrectly, someone will set us both straight.
As far as the CPS, my 2003 would just die going down the road, put the gearshift in N, start right back up. I did notice that the tach would go to 0. When it stumbled, the tach would drop, then pick right back up. I've not had a problem with the truck not ever starting.
For the testing of the batteries, I don't know but would agree with your suggestion of testing one at a time independent of the other one so you wouldn't risk a good battery disguising a bad one!
Let me give this a shot. The HPOP is the High Pressure Oil Pump and is located right in front of the fuel filter. There is an allen head plug on the top and if I understand correctly, the oil level in the reservoir must be maintained by the system or it will take a little while to build up enough oil/pressure to work the injectors. It seems there is a check valve/drain in the bottom that can possibly cause the oil in the reservoir to drain out resulting in slow starting or longer cranking. If I'm explaining this incorrectly, someone will set us both straight.
/QUOTE]
That's pretty good.. I will just add that the oil level should be about 3/4" from the top, especially after the truck be sitting for several hours..
My CPS went bad on me. It started off just stalling and would start right back up. Eventually it wouldn't start though. I wish when this was happening I was reading posts on this site, because I ended up taking it to the dealer to get fixed and $690 later it's working again. Kinda sucks that it was such and easy fix I could have done myself.
Is this site awsome or what. I figure that I saved enough money on one little item that it was more than fair for me to become a supporter. So I did today.
Congrad's on becoming a supporter.. More people should follow your way of thinking.. Together here, we can solve most of our problems and leave the stealerships wondering why their service bays are all empty !
Thanks again, I'll check that also. I am somewhat confident that replacing the cps resolved my stalling/dying issue. I'm still a little reluctant to take the truck beyond the property since all of our rural roads are not a good place to stall out. Our cell phones don't work here either so I'll drive around our few acres and test it. I've reconnected the edge chip and hope to be good to go. CJ
I know this is going to sound stupid, but what is the CPS? Is it the computer down by the parking brake? I know a few things about my truck and some things I don't know, this is my ignorance showing right now. Thanks in advance!