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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Battery not recharging

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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:14 PM
  #1  
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Cool Battery not recharging

'85 Bronco w/ transplanted 2 barrel carb'd 302. New battery, alternator, cap-rotor-wires-plugs. Thing is good for approximately 5-8 starts and then runs down the battery. I have NO friggin' clue. ANY GOOD SOLID IDEAS out there ?!?!?!? Can anyone tell me also how many wires are suppossed to go into the starter relay ?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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I cant, but I know resistance in the lines is a frequent cause. Clean all major connections.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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I'm not sure either, but it sounds like a broken wire, an unconnected wire,or a bad alternator/ voltage regulator. If the problem shows inconsistency in it's manifestation, check the area under the plastic sleeves next to any connection in the charging system ,as many electrical gremlims live there. Also make sure any ground wires originally used are also hooked up, as this is more important than most people realize. These are a few scenarious you can investigate.You didn't mention if you where recharging the battery after the start failures or if it suddenly started working again . I based my reply on the former. One more obscure possibility is a bad battery , coupled with a marginal charging system, but this would be very inconsistent symtomatically. Hope this helps some.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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Don't count on the charging system of the vehicle for completely charging the battery.

Use a battery charger to do it properly

Batteries these days can be bad right off the shelf.

Take yours in for load testing as it may be sulfated or shorting out inside.

Btw, FTE has a Big Bronco forum for Bronco questions.

The Power lug side of the starter relay can have as many leads as it takes.

1) Main power source
2) Aux battery lead
3) Hood Light power
4) Power for trailer /camper
 
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 08:35 AM
  #5  
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Get a voltmeter and check the voltage on the battery with it off, and then with it running. It should be around 12 volts with it off, and around 14 volts with the engine running if it's charging.

If it's not charging, the first thing to do is see if you have 12 volt on the large output terminal of the alternator with the engine off. If you don't, there is a fusible link in the large output wire that may be bad.

Write in what you find, and we can continue doing some testing.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 04:24 PM
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Alright...pulled the old semi-corroded cables off of battery and starter and replaced with brand new cables. It went approximately 1 mile then died. Had to give it a boost to restart. When I have had to give it a boost it only takes just putting the jumper cables on for it to start, not the "charge" of minutes to start. Since I have tried replacing everything, I may start with replacing somes wires. THis thing is/was really "rigged" up something terrible. The only things I haven't replaced new were the coil, starter relay, and the Duraspark box. Could any of these be the culprit. I will wait for an answer before I start buying different gauges of wire to replace the other ones and asking for another wiring diagram for any kind of similiar Bronco having the stock 5.8 EFI replaced with a carb'd 302 of unknown origin.
Thanks to all whom have made suggested and for any future help!
 
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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There are some pretty long threads and some very frustrated people on here trying to guess what's wrong with their vehicle. Test, and experiment, test and experiment, or what's commonly known as troubleshooting.

Go buy a meter, they are cheap. It's nothing wrong with not knowing how to use one, we will help you. Don't be afraid of it, we will walk you through the whole thing. No guarantee's but it will be better than spending hundreds on parts you don't need.

Is it charging or not? That's the question the meter will answer.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 05:53 PM
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The ford ignition system requires 6-8 volts to operate.

Once the available voltage drops to 5 volts, the engine dies.

When using booster cables..one is substituting Batteries so of course it would start fine.

Do what Dave said about checking Charging voltage with engine revving at 900 rpm

Also Get that battery tested so you have defnitive proof the battery is either good or bad.

Diagnosis without Replacing parts

Systems:

Starting system - Battery,Ign Switch,Starter relay,Starter
I say there ISN'T anything wrong with this Until the battery voltage disappears.

The Ignition system, Battery,Coil,Ignition Module
Dependent on battery voltage, Ignition Module can fail when hot

Charging system - Alternator,Voltage Regulator,Battery
Simple testing to determine if system works
 

Last edited by Mil1ion; Jun 11, 2007 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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Opened battery top and there was NO water/fluid visible. Took it back to WAL-Mart. They told the woman that its thier position to charge it first. Woman had softbakll game and couldn't get the battery before closing. Will get it tomorrow.

The engine seems to run good until around 15 minutes then it will die (after jumpstarting). With a good charge it starts fine. If the battery is good I will get a voltmeter tomorrow.

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 07:15 AM
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It's usually something simple.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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Lots of good suggestions in this thread. I'd like to add my $0.02 to Million's thought on replaced equipment. Just because something is new does not mean that it is good. In most cases, it will be, but not always so it's well worth checking with a meter or taking it back to the parts store for checking on their test equipment. I've gotten "rebuilt" alternators before, for example, that were worse than the old one they replaced. A quick test showed that they simply were not putting out the juice that they should have.

Ed
 
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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you can add rebuilt starters to the list of crap rebuilt items. Had one on a 442 and it chewed up the entire flywheel and burnt out the battery. Talk about a pain in the neck that was.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 11:06 PM
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I had the same problem a while back with my `85 F150 ..... turned out to be the voltage regulator. After 15 bucks at the parts store and 10 minutes in my driveway, I've had no trouble since.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by boggerted
you can add rebuilt starters to the list of crap rebuilt items. Had one on a 442 and it chewed up the entire flywheel and burnt out the battery. Talk about a pain in the neck that was.
Yep and also water pumps. I went through 3 rebuilts on a Jeep once before finally getting one that worked and did not leak. Luckily, that only wasted some time and did not cause other damage like happened to your Olds 442.

Ed
 
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 11:40 AM
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OK.........Wal-Mart said the battery was good. They recharged it. The "Beast" started and ran good for several days. Problem solved! Then yesterday, while in the wendy's drive through, it died!!! I am going to try and replace the voltage regulator. Also, going to borrow a voltmeter so I can follow Franklin2's suggestion.
THNX
 
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