Gauges are here, connection locations?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
Gauges are here, connection locations?
I am installing 5 gauges and need a little guidance on the best place to install the connections.
1- Pyro: no brainer, drill tap and mount thermocouple in Drivers side manifold
2- Fuel pressure: also a no brainer, remove valve on side of FPR and adapt it to fit the line. Put in an isolator. Q: will this gauge go bad quickly if I leave it connected all the time due to spikes in pressure? If so is it safe or recommended to put a valve in line so I can check it when I need to and not leave it pressurized all the time.
3- Boost: I got that one too, "T" into map line. I know there is a better place to drill and mount it but I can't remember where on the turbo housing to drill.
4- Back pressure, I believe I got that one also, Remove back pressure sensor and get some fittings to make a "T" and put the original sensor and the aftermarket line back on. Also run a metal line from it to dissapate heat before it gets to the plastic line.
5- Oil pressure, I don't have this one, I think on or near oil filter housing but not sure. I definately need help with this one.
I numbered these to make it easier to reply back. Thanx in advance guys.
1- Pyro: no brainer, drill tap and mount thermocouple in Drivers side manifold
2- Fuel pressure: also a no brainer, remove valve on side of FPR and adapt it to fit the line. Put in an isolator. Q: will this gauge go bad quickly if I leave it connected all the time due to spikes in pressure? If so is it safe or recommended to put a valve in line so I can check it when I need to and not leave it pressurized all the time.
3- Boost: I got that one too, "T" into map line. I know there is a better place to drill and mount it but I can't remember where on the turbo housing to drill.
4- Back pressure, I believe I got that one also, Remove back pressure sensor and get some fittings to make a "T" and put the original sensor and the aftermarket line back on. Also run a metal line from it to dissapate heat before it gets to the plastic line.
5- Oil pressure, I don't have this one, I think on or near oil filter housing but not sure. I definately need help with this one.
I numbered these to make it easier to reply back. Thanx in advance guys.
Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,302
Likes: 1
From: Southwest Georgia
#1, correct.
#2, Not 100% positive on this but I believe that the isolator with dampen the spikes and your gauge will be O.K. But to be sure, call the manufacturer and ask them.
#3, correct, or drill and tap into the intake "Y" pipe.
#4, correct, make sure you remove the back pressure senor tube and clean it our really well brake cleaner and a wire.
#5 I usually put a "T" into the top of the HPOP reservoir and then put the factory sender and new sender in at this location. Off of the top of my head I cannot remember which plug it is at the location at the oil filter. I'll check and get back with you.
#2, Not 100% positive on this but I believe that the isolator with dampen the spikes and your gauge will be O.K. But to be sure, call the manufacturer and ask them.
#3, correct, or drill and tap into the intake "Y" pipe.
#4, correct, make sure you remove the back pressure senor tube and clean it our really well brake cleaner and a wire.
#5 I usually put a "T" into the top of the HPOP reservoir and then put the factory sender and new sender in at this location. Off of the top of my head I cannot remember which plug it is at the location at the oil filter. I'll check and get back with you.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
Originally Posted by plowhand
#1, correct.
#2, Not 100% positive on this but I believe that the isolator with dampen the spikes and your gauge will be O.K. But to be sure, call the manufacturer and ask them.
#3, correct, or drill and tap into the intake "Y" pipe.
#4, correct, make sure you remove the back pressure senor tube and clean it our really well brake cleaner and a wire.
#5 I usually put a "T" into the top of the HPOP reservoir and then put the factory sender and new sender in at this location. Off of the top of my head I cannot remember which plug it is at the location at the oil filter. I'll check and get back with you.
#2, Not 100% positive on this but I believe that the isolator with dampen the spikes and your gauge will be O.K. But to be sure, call the manufacturer and ask them.
#3, correct, or drill and tap into the intake "Y" pipe.
#4, correct, make sure you remove the back pressure senor tube and clean it our really well brake cleaner and a wire.
#5 I usually put a "T" into the top of the HPOP reservoir and then put the factory sender and new sender in at this location. Off of the top of my head I cannot remember which plug it is at the location at the oil filter. I'll check and get back with you.
#4 the whole tube needs to be removed? Where does it reconnect? it goes down and disappears. I haven't looked to see where it goes yet.
#5- I guess I will try the top of the HPOP but I didn't think it was the right pressure but since the factory unit is there it shouldn't matter. Also if I wanted could I just leave the factory unit off or would that throw a code and possibly put it in limp mode?
Thanx plowhand
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
Originally Posted by caseydudem
This also helps me alittle since I'm at the same point. Is the boost gauge better of at the y-pipe or is either pretty much the same? Thanks
Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,302
Likes: 1
From: Southwest Georgia
Casey, either location will work fine, just personal preference and ease of install.
Neal, #3, I tap into the left (drivers) side of the "Y", Just above and infront of the leg going to the intake. Location really does not matter as the entire intake system is pressurized. I have seen them put in all over the "Y" pipe.
#4, the bottom of the back pressure sensor tube goes into the front of the right (passengers) side exhaust manifold.
#5, I don't know if it will throw a code, but your factory gauge will not work. The engine oil pump pressurizes the HPOP reservoir to keep it full. I use a T, a short nipple, and two street L's. Then both sensors are pointing back towards the cab.
Hope this helps.
Neal, #3, I tap into the left (drivers) side of the "Y", Just above and infront of the leg going to the intake. Location really does not matter as the entire intake system is pressurized. I have seen them put in all over the "Y" pipe.
#4, the bottom of the back pressure sensor tube goes into the front of the right (passengers) side exhaust manifold.
#5, I don't know if it will throw a code, but your factory gauge will not work. The engine oil pump pressurizes the HPOP reservoir to keep it full. I use a T, a short nipple, and two street L's. Then both sensors are pointing back towards the cab.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
Originally Posted by plowhand
Casey, either location will work fine, just personal preference and ease of install.
Neal, #3, I tap into the left (drivers) side of the "Y", Just above and infront of the leg going to the intake. Location really does not matter as the entire intake system is pressurized. I have seen them put in all over the "Y" pipe.
#4, the bottom of the back pressure sensor tube goes into the front of the right (passengers) side exhaust manifold.
#5, I don't know if it will throw a code, but your factory gauge will not work. The engine oil pump pressurizes the HPOP reservoir to keep it full. I use a T, a short nipple, and two street L's. Then both sensors are pointing back towards the cab.
Hope this helps.
Neal, #3, I tap into the left (drivers) side of the "Y", Just above and infront of the leg going to the intake. Location really does not matter as the entire intake system is pressurized. I have seen them put in all over the "Y" pipe.
#4, the bottom of the back pressure sensor tube goes into the front of the right (passengers) side exhaust manifold.
#5, I don't know if it will throw a code, but your factory gauge will not work. The engine oil pump pressurizes the HPOP reservoir to keep it full. I use a T, a short nipple, and two street L's. Then both sensors are pointing back towards the cab.
Hope this helps.
#4 what seals it? In otherwords what will I have to get to reinstall. Maybe it is just pressed with a fork and bolt, not sure but I can check it out myself.
#5 sounds like the best way thanx plowhand.
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 708
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Okay I understand that it is preferance, but you taped it. Does it get a better reading or more accurate? I was wondering why you all would go to the trouble to do that if its that easy to plumb in to the map sensor?
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Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,302
Likes: 1
From: Southwest Georgia
Neal, #3, it's a 1/4 inch pipe thread tap (I believe) with a fitting that adapts to the plastic line. Yes, remove the intake "Y", put it in a vise, then drill and tap it.
#4, it has a nut fitting on the bottom of the tube, if I remember correctly.
casey, cleaner install, less tubing to run and get in the way when doing other work. That's my reason.
#4, it has a nut fitting on the bottom of the tube, if I remember correctly.
casey, cleaner install, less tubing to run and get in the way when doing other work. That's my reason.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Neal, IDK if all the instructions you need ar here but give it looksee.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/installsheets.asp
Nice pictures too.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/installsheets.asp
Nice pictures too.