Does the 390 rocker arm route oil to the pushrod ball internally? I found the #7 exhaust pushrod ball and rocker arm socket scored pretty badly during my tear down last night. I am assuming that the internal passage is blocked so it didn't get the proper amount of lube. I just want to know for sure before I break the rocker arms off the shaft to clean everything out.

I read that I should also install #90 holley jets in the rocker arm oil feed holes to restrict the amount of oil flowing through them so the mains and rods are the priority.

On a side note, what is the normal amount of compression psi for these engines? It was in a 68 F-250 Camper Special that I bought for $20 to use as a donor for the engine/c6, power brakes, power steering, and 2 speed wiper system on a 66. Before I bought the truck I did a compression check and found all the cylinders were 110 psi +/- 3. I thought that was pretty good considering it is a temp engine until the original 390 is torn down and rebuilt. Not only that but the C6 only has 5000 miles or so on it since it was replaced with a reman. The only issues this truck has is the rain rail rot and the drivers fender was dented, PM me with any requests. You never know...

 

the oil for the pushrod end on the rocker comes tru a shall hole in the rocker, it could be blocked or blocked at the hole in the rocker shaft..lack of oil could be from excessive wear between the rocker and the shaft..on a stock motor I wouldn't worry about resticting the oil flow, I've never used that method..the more oil to the rockers the better as long as you don't have a flooding problem

 

Thanks Hiball. That is what I thought when I found the pushrod like that. I am thinking that sludge or carbon blocked it off. The plan is to tear the whole motor down and clean out the oil passages in case there are anymore in there. The few rods and mains I have pulled show almost no wear. Which is surprising if you look at how dirty the engine is internally. There were a few dozen .125 or smaller rocks inside the valve covers when I pulled them off and a really thick coating of sludge. I guess someone thought rocks were a good sludge remover at some point. LOL Really I attribute that to offroading without an air filter in the assembly. You see that a lot on dirt track cars.

 

the oil sludge is probaly from back in the days hen oil was crap, I use to see them all the time in the 60-70s, you had to chisel the stuff off..LOL, be sure to check your drain holes in the heads for sludge and rocks

 

Personally I think the previous owners oil change consisted of adding more oil as the old stuff ran out the valve covers. Also the fram oil filter didn't have the grip coating on the end of it. I think they started putting that on the oil filters 7 years ago or so. I've seen black oil before but this stuff was so black it had an almost blueish green tint to it when it was draining out and stained my fingers just from touching it. I am surprised it ran at all to be honest. The timing chain had almost an inch and a half of play and half the timing gear teeth were worn off.

 

I don't know whats going to happen when you add new oil with the dedergants, if it will loosen up all the sludge you can't get to and start plugging up stuff, good luck..might be worth pulling the pan and cleaning the pump pickup

 

As he said he would be tearing it down.. While it's down pop the rocker shaft end plugs out and brush out the shaft till spotless. Great insurance for the future and you get to mic everything for clearances while your at it. Be carefull handling them as the oil passages can make nice slices in your fingers/palm while romoving the stands and handling in general.

PS if it's a temp engine ? you have any plans for it after the original is back together ?

 

Working on aircraft with titanium parts I learned a long time ago to wear gloves. LOL My wife tried to wash then throw them out a few years ago. She understood when I showed her some of the cuts and burns on them. She did buy me a new pair of "mechanics" gloves shortly after that. One thing I don't like about them is they retain synthetic oil like it is cool. So needless to say those went in the trash and the old leather ones came back.

Anyways this old motor is a temp that is getting a full gasket change, new oil pump, timing set, and freeze plugs. The project owner is wanting to do a hi-per rebuild on his T-Bird 390 engine while this one fills the bill to allow him to drive it around in the meantime. I am pretty sure Mike will sell it plus a manual tranny with OD. I am converting his truck to an auto and pulling everthing associated with the tranny out.

 

Keep me in mind if so.. plan was to hunt something down in PYP for the $$ and deal with it. But for a lil more $ not having to deal with the, PO snafu wrenchings, yard, grease, etc.. would be cool..

 

I'll shoot you a PM when all is said and done. It might be next month or a few months from now though.