I'm considering changing from a 1356 to a NP205. I have test fit it and it will work, but I need to modify my shift linkage, exhaust, and of course both drive shafts. I'm not a off-roader, but I do plow snow & pull stumps and other stupid abusive things. I want a strong reliable QUIET transfer case that I can run around with the hubs locked to be ready to go to 4WD without climbing out to lock in the hubs. My 1356 makes alot of noise if the hubs are locked, I guess because that chain is spinning. The only downside to the 205 compared with the 1356 (that I know of) is it has less of a low range and of course weight. Any other downside that I’m not thinking of? Any problem driving the 205 in 2WD with the hubs locked for extended periods of time?

82 F250
4.10 gears
460, Mass-Flo EFI
Dana 60 front
Ford 10.25 rear
C6

 

i do know that as long as your t-case is in 2wd driving witht the hubs locked in will just increase wear on your front axle drivetrain components. because if they are unlocked (free) the just kinda float and dont really spin drivin down the road. it especailly wouldnt be a good idea to drive with them locked if you have some kind of front spool or locker it would be very hard to manuver and would really strain the front axle parts for no reason.

 

Wear on the front drive train should not be an issue for me. Full time 4wd trucks last well over 100K miles. I drive maybe 5K a year with this vehicle. They are 5,000 hard miles, but I'm not commuting with this thing. Fuel economy also is not an issue. This truck seems to get the same **** pore mileage no matter what I do to it. It actually seems to get almost the same mileage empty as it does with a 8,000 Lbs. 26' race car trailer behind it.

I have two NP205's, three 1356's and one 1345. I just want to use the best possible unit for my application. My thought is that the heavy gear drive NP205's are "The Best", but sometimes the heavy duty part is not the best for all applications. One of my requirements is that it needs to be able to sustain highway speeds with the hubs locked without complaining.

If you guys where building a truck, both parts are available, so no money difference. Would any of you choose the 1356 over the 205? If so why?

 

I would prefer the 205. But I am comparing to a 4406. the latter will not tolerate hwy speeds. very noisy and vibrated badly in my experience.

I have run the 205 in older trucks just as you intend without any issues and minimal noise. It is just like a tranny. The driveshaft is usually the culprit if it is noisy and vibrates. If the 205 is very noisy it is probably on the way out. My last was in a 71 dogdy I hopped up. In the winter I would only unlock if hitting the hwy for a trip, or was feeling the pinch of mpg. They use chains in the AWD drive but I suspect there are chain guides to stop chain slapping.

I read on a post that there is a 3:1 ratio available for the 205. I only for one for the 203 in my search and don't have any info on it. And the 205 was put in factory trucks that did not have hub locks in the mid 70s. No bad rep either.

 

rogerfries:
Thank you so much for mentioning that leaving front hubs locked does not wear out any components. I hear this argument all the time, and is nothing more than an old wives tale. Heak a rear axle is always locked, and has power to it all of the time, and wears just fine. The comparrison to the trucks equiped with the 203 (full time) case was right on the money. They are engaged all of the time, and do not suffer from any wear issues. I feel a front axle that does not spin once in a while would suffer more damage from lack of use. Ring gear exposed subject to moisture, and seals drying out just from temp changes,,,,I could go on, and on.
The 205 is a great case, and you will not be let down You can drive with the front hubs locked with no problems. Having the front hubs locked will not result in additional noise. It will make noise if you twin stick it, and run it in low range on the stree. If you are familiar with twin sticks, one of the options is 2wd low range, or front wheel drive, or, well you get the idea.
Shifters are a dime a dozen, and twin stick shifters can easily be made, or can be purchased for a decent price. Guys that have bought them have found some real value, and quality.
Looks like for the year of your truck, this case will be a natural, no troubles with Vehicle speed sensing. Probably the toughest part would be lifting that havy thing up there. I have worn plenty on my chest.
You are correct about the ratios with a ratio of only 2:1. To address the 3:1 kit, it was only availabe for the 203, but I am trying to install the Lomax kit designed for the chebby box into a ford unit. I have to make some minor mods, but think I can get away with using a custom ford input with the lomax internals. Everything spins the same direction, only some of the offsets of the gears are different. Lots of measuring.
Anyway, I don't think you can go wrong with your install, and it should last just about forever.

 

Thanks Tim,

Is this a fact? It is my understanding that the 205 is not available in a full time version. So if this is true that Ford built trucks using a part time 205 case and non unlocking hubs. This is a perfect example that this is a reasonably sound principal and that my driving style of leaving the hubs locked in most of the time is OK.
Can anyone else verify that Ford made trucks with the part time NP205 and fixed hubs? What years?

 

I dont know about ford using a 205 with non locking hubs,(that doesn't make sense, why would they do that?) I believe that was for the 203's, but I have nothing to support my theory. Would't hurt anything anyway if they did.
Plenty of guys lock in the front ends for the winter and leave them that way.
I have used drive slugs on the street with a front locker with no problems associated with the case. Tough to steer, but that is a different story.

 

Thanks 75F350,

The whole hub locked or unlocked thing seems to be a Coke vs. Pepsi debate. strong opinions on both sides, but no clear winner.
It's sounding like the 205 is the way to go. It's just another project to do. the only cost should be the drive shaft work and my drive shaft guy is'nt working at the same shop anymore. Lifting the case was easy! See: http://picasaweb.google.com/Roger.Fries/NP205/photo#5072991678661380418

Any issue with the compound driveshaft angle? Notice that if goes left as well as down because the 205 dosen't reach out as far as the chain drive cases.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Roger.Fries/NP205/photo#5072992499000134018

Full Album:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Roger.Fries/NP205

 

The use of the CV, or double cardan joint will eliminate any vibrations associated with the compound angle. That is a great question as is often overlooked. Keeping the truck at a sensible heigth and not creating an even greater angle will also help here.Given the intended use of your truck, I don't see any problems here.
This a very good upgrade, and if you are willing to lose the slightly lower ratio in low range, you will get the great advantages of the gear to gear case.

That is a pretty steep angle, but I have seen worse on shorter rear shafts.
That was an impressive craddle you made for the floor jack, nice job.
Gonna be tight running those headers huh?

You could also install a 203 range box in front of the 205, and get back that super low range, and then some! It would help with that wicked front d-shaft angle too.

Oh yeah, congrats on the triple digit post, you hit 100.

 

Should I use the CV at both ends of the driveshaft?

My ride hight is Stock F350 hight and have less than an inch of clearance to my garage door, so I'm not going any higher.

I have thought about the 203/205 double low range, but I don't know. I have a line on a Dodge 203 case, don't know if a Dodge case would fit a Ford. Any idea how much the adaptors might cost to rig that up? The extra length would help my front shaft angle, but hurt the rear. Also some day I'd like to put in a Gear Vendors over drive so this rear shaft would get even shorter.

What is a practical use for the twin stick? I keep thinking I should do that mod, but I can't think of a reason why.

Thanks & sorry for so many questions.

 

Move the garage door!
Just kidding, or am I?

Here is the thing about the rear shaft. It is pretty much centered, so the angles have little affect on the shaft. It really only moves up, and down. Articulation from left to right (up, & down from one wheel to the other) has little to do with the drive shaft extension.
You do not want to use double cardan joints at both ends. That would make the shaft very weak. It would ot know how to hold position, and would explode.
If you have considered the 203/205 doubler, and have a line on a 203 case, it will cost about $800.00 for an adapter to couple the two cases together. Now is the time to do it, before you spend money on shafts. Make a decision soon, and build shafts once.

Never be sorry for questions. We should apologize for only one guy trying to answer your questions. I wish some of the other fellas would chime in, amd either confirm my suggestions, or tell us both that I am full of hot air.

Some applications are great for some, but may not be so good for others. I consider myself as a fairly extreme off roader. The advantages of two cases provides me with a variety of ratios to utilize. As does the utilization of twin sticks. This gives me the opportunity to engage the front axle by itself in either low, or high range, or the rear axle with the same options, or both, or either, or any option between the two. Not to mention the option of low range front case, with high range rear case, or low front, low rear, high front, low rear, high front, high rear, heak the combinations are just about endless. Maybe the real eason is the cool points! How many trucks have you seen with an automatic transmission (column shift), and two, or three shifters on the floor?

 

Sorry guys, I was thinking of Dodggys and was wrong as they had the NP203 in the FT4WD. Must be getting old. lol Regardless I agree with 75f350, the 205 will behave correctly and last with your usage.

The internals of the various 205s are pretty much the same. There are some spline, and bolt count differences to be aware of with your mating a 203. early chevy & dodge 205s had 8 bolts-- Ford 6.

At the last swap meet I visited, I saw plenty of 203s and 205s for $50 and no one buying.

sounds like 75f350 is pretty strong on this and can get you the info you seek. so I will bow out of the advice business. Glad I have a day job. lol