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Greetings all, I spent Saturday installing a set of headers I got off EBAY on my 66 with a 302. After a while of tinkering and cutting out metal I got them to fit on the passenger side. Once installed I did notice that one of the pipes was touching the rear end of the starter and 2 of them are touching the side of the starter. Well I dont know but I figure all that heat is going to fry the starter and so I removed them.
So is this normal?
are there smaller starters on some motors?
can I get a hammer and kinda bang the pipes so that they dont touch?
I did not find a brand or any markings on the headers and they really dont look like they were made with a whole lot of quality. the owner said they were off a van so I figured I would give it a shot.
I am kinda of leaning on buying a new set at a local parts store down here. I did a forum search on headers and went back about 10 pages. Most dont really have what models were used etc. but from the info I got, I think that since my motor is a 1974 all I have to do is order them for a 1974 F100 with a 302 and I should be all right. right?
thanks
Lui
Also purchased set of used headers off ebay, for 65 F100 with 302, Hooker long tube. Seller indicated he purchased them for 69-75 F100/F150. As you found, driver's side was not an issue but I did have some minor grinding on the passenger side crossmember, the starter was not a problem. Not sure if starters vary in size depending upon output. I have the standard starter. Seen others bend headers to get them to fit. If talking about minor bend, suggest try heating before bending slightly, would not want to tweek the header pipes to point unable to get good seal, affraid banging on them may not help. If ' do it yourselfer' exhaust sys. installation, suggest purchasing offset extentions, it makes it easier getting around the tranny crossmember. Another FTE member posted pic's from his gallary where he modified the crossmember, if have welding equipment it would best way to go. Of course can take to shop and they can make necessary welds and bends and you don't have to deal with it.
Since I have an AOD tranny the original trnansmission crossmember has been removed and only has the piece where the I beams are I dont see running the pipes back to be a problem since the new crossmember is farther back a ways.I did have to cut away a little more of the top of what was left of the original crossmember and took a little of the bellhousing at where the starter is also.
Lui
Suppose I have been fortunate, installed headers on both of my 65 F100's several years ago, never had starter heating problem and still same starters. Did insulate wire from starter to relay, have a wood burner stove that require resealing ever so often. Kit contains fiber glass type sock for sealing stove door, works perfect.
I wish I could put a shield on the starter the problem is I got 3 of the pipes actually making contact with the starter. Anyway getting a new set today from the store for a 74 f100 302 and hopefully this should work.
The Ebay set will go on a wall for decoration
Lui
The new set of headers is going to have the same fitment issue. AOD's weren't offered in a 74 anything. If I remeber right the AOD moved the starter pad location a tad. I would suggest buying a mini aftermarket 302/AOD starter or a 92 and newer stock mustang starter. Kind of like this one... ebay item # 320121831538
Just wanted to let you know that I got a set of Flow techs yesterday and installed the passenger side first this time. The clearance issue around the starter is gone now and I have plenty of room around the starter. But when I got under the truck the collector pipe is right up to (touching) the tranny pan.
Well from what I have gathered there is no header combination that will fit my truck as long as I have the Aod. So instead of trying out any other brands I just got a torch and started heating them at the first bends until cherry red, stuck a baseball bat in the collector pipe and just pulled them untill they where away from the pan. Now they are about 3/4" away from the pan and the flange can spin freely. Do you all think thats enough? I think if I lift the truck up and heat the pipes from underneith right before the collector using the bat I can move it some more.
As long as there is enough clearance to fit your palm between pipes and other parts is my rule of thumb. 3/4's of an inch will do though. If in doubt you can mount a heat shield to further reduce the heat transfer. Just use worm gear clamps to hold it on the exhaust pipe.
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