Well, sounds like a good fuel tank cleaning is in my near future. Thanks gentlemen!

 

Well, I just got back from a long weekend in Vegas, and I thought I would give an update to my problem. I pulled out the seat and checked the gas tank. Not a spot of rust or corrosion of any kind. The line inside of the tank moves fuel without a problem. I checked the line all the way from the tank to the fuel pump and there is no blockages what-so-ever. I blew the line clear from the pump back to the tank and there was no debris from the line. I replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the line running from the fuel pump to the carb, placed a new in-line fuel filter and pressure gauge. I am running consistently at 6 psi. I tried to get a carb kit for the Holley (what seems to be a 1904), but could only get the bowl gasket, intake gasket and a couple other mics. parts for the rebuild. All and all, the carb looks to be in great shape. The only major part I couldn't replace (due to not having it) was the power valve. I am looking at a kit on eBay that is complete.

My problem remains.

It (straight six) will start and idle beautifully. It will rev out in nuetral all day and sounds as if it isn't missing a beat. The second I get out on the road, I will drive for about 20 seconds and it will fall on its face, have trouble starting up again and force me to limp it back home. Could it be the power valve? It seems that it runs through the fuel in the bowl and then falls on its face. All indications are that my fuel pressure is great.

Help...please.

 

Sometimes when setting still everything seems ok, then when moving, the air flow in the engine bay and under the vehicle changes. Could this be blowing hot air on the fuel line by the exhaust manifold , the exhaust pipe or the muffler when moving and not when stopped? If you take a gallon or so can and and run a rubber fuel line to the fuel pump you will eliminate the complete fuel line and tank. You need to do something to isolate the problem whether it is tank/fuel line/pump/carb/distributor. I've seen hot air during moving over heat the coil when they are weak and attached near to the block. Hope this helps,chuck

 

You have not said whether you have checked float condition, float level, needle valve condition, needle valve "spring" condition, et al..

 

When I initially broke the carb down for cleaning, I checked the float condition and operation. It seemed to be working great. Everything else seemed to be in good, clean, working order. I am going tobreak it down again sometime this week to see if the float is hanging on something and try to adjust it.

 

When you have the carb apart check that the needle isn`t sticking in the seat.

 

I checked this when I cleaned it the first time, and I saw no problems. The seat was spotless. I will be doing this again though, so I will go over everything once more.

 

I had a similar problem, at first the needle and seat seemed fine but after taking the carb apart again I noticed the needle was sticking just abit the odd time. Sometimes it isn`t that obvious at first....

 

I appreciate the help! It seems as though I picked the right forum here. I will let everyone know how this little fiasco ends up.

 

Chris, did this problem exist b-4 you tore the carb down?

 

The problem did exist before I tore it down. In fact, after the cleaning and new seals, it ran much better at idle, although the problem still happened when under load.

 

Well...I broke down the carb again. Everything is functioning perfectly and is spotless. The float is working without a hitch.

My problem remains.

I am reaching a boiling point, as I am covered in fuel and grease right now. Any and all suggestions and/or advice is welcome.

 

Suggestion. I don't have one but does anyone have a carb to mail him to try. He needs to get past the carb one way or another. Hope this helps,chuck

 

How do your plugs look when it dies on the road? Are they soaking wet or dry and clean? If you can, take it out on the road and get it to act up, and pull the center plugs. (#3 & #4) You'll at least know whether it's rich or lean.

I think it was suggested earlier to run it off a jerry can, feeding the regular fuel pump. Despite your investigations of the tank and lines, it's still worth trying, and not much trouble. Just make sure the jerry can is secured!

 

I think I am going to have to buy a new carb. In all reality I have checked everything. This will at least cancel out a big part. Does anyone have a 1904 Holley I can buy, or am I going to need to buy it off of a parts dealer?