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I havent been around in a little while but since then my truck has been on the fritz, I think I fix the problem, works for a couple days and than back to the way it was before.
I currently own a 1978 F150 Spr. Cab w/ a 460. Its a carburated motor and it runs just fine but the problem is my battery keeps going dead and this is the 3 brand new battery Ive put in it this month. Ive had the alternator tested at 2 shops, Ive uprgraded the battery, Ive redone the starter wire, and whole ignition and solenoid (possibly a short?), and last of all put a new voltage regulator (silver box on the passenger side inner finder). what else could it be!?! Alternator has +, -, stater, field, and ignition hook up and I thought that was kind of wierd. All of my equipment is motorcraft.
lmao, if I had the entire system tested Iwould know where the problem was and could then of course fix it. Ive got a drain but I was just looking for a good place to start, ie: common problem areas etc. I am just looking for something common yah know? If you've got any idear on where to start than that'd awesome!
Franklin - I do appreciate that diagram, Im about 95% sure its a drain because the only parts I have replaced is the voltage regulator and 3 batteries. It has to be a drain somewhere... I guess I just have to get the energy to dive into the wires!
I went though all hell with my system draining my battery a while back. If you have a bit of time, read through the thread, it might help. We went through ALL the tests, and I ended up pulling apart my whole dash and following the wires. It was a lot of work, but it turned out to be something simple. If you don't have a digital multimeter, it's worth getting one. It will make the job WAY easier.
Damn, just replacing parts on some wild goose chase is expensive!!! Unfortunately we hear from people that have done just that every day here...
Testing the parts individually and replacing batteries is a far cry from taking the vehicle in and having one of those newfangled computer tests done. They can at least eliminate the common system problems. If the guy testing it has any brains they can usually do a couple quick tests after the computer gets done like Franklin outlined to help pin down a failure mode. Of course going thru and pulling all the fuses and a few fuse links is extensive testing that you can do yourself with the proper meter or have a professional do it.
There are really no common problems, it could be anything. What I wanted you to do is start over and confirm if you really had a drain or not. What I did leave out in my post is once you get the testlight setup and confirm you have a drain, then you can start pulling fuses till the light goes out. If the light goes out with a certain fuse, then you know it's that circuit, and there may or may not be a common problem associated with that circuit.
If none of the fuses make the light go out, then you can try pulling the wires off the alternator and see if the light goes out.
Go step by step and I think we can figure out the problem.
That is one hell of an idea yah got there, I really appreciate the tip even though that isnt the problem it sure is one hell of a way to do some backyard diagnostics. Thanks for the tidbit.
I dont have a drain so im thinking that maybe my alternator is at fault, Im going to check all the wiring on it come morning and Ill let yall know how ti comes out. Once again thanks for all the helpful advice.
Alright, I done and got her all figured out. Off of the voltage regulator I found a small wire that led to what seemed to be back into the block but I had not messed with it until today. When I traced it down it was somm kind of small cylinder with on yellow wire running into and a place for it to be bolted back down to the inner fender. I found a suitable location for it and bolted it in and all day I havent had a problem out of it. I have no idea what it is or what it does but when I grounded it to the fender it solved all of my problems! Does anybody know what that piece is or its purpose?
I don't see how it could affect your battery problem. That condensor just acts as a low-pass filter - it takes out high frequency noise from the ignition that would show up in the radio. If it's bolted up, then great, if not, you just won't get the noise filtering. The entire case of the condensor is ground, so with it just hanging there, I don't see how it would have contributed to your problem. I don't think it would have shorted something else while hanging. Have you taken the connector off of the voltage regulator and cleaned the debris out?
sorry it took so long to reply just been really busy lately. I got my truck back from the shop and they fixed multiple, yes multiple, shorts within the system as well as rewired the charging system. I thought that was it and I was definately alot happier. Drove great the whole day, shut it off that night and once again the next morning it wouldnt crank. But it was a little different, instead of sounding like there was a short it sounded as if the battery was 95% gone. I re-did the battery drain test and sure enough now there is a drain. I pulled all of my fuses and the light didnt go out so tomorow Ill start elsewhere. More than likely the alternator is next.
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