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Ibc

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Old May 31, 2007 | 06:49 PM
  #1  
firesoutmatt's Avatar
firesoutmatt
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From: Nothern Indiana
Ibc

My 05 has the tow command with the IBC that won't lock the brakes if your under 15mph. I tried to tell the dealer it was a safty thing because I couldn't check to make sure my fiver is locked on the fifth wheel by manually locking brakes after I hook up.

I've heard that some guys were able to get Ford to replace the IBC because of this so my question is this true and how did you get Ford to replace it.

This seems to be a early 05 problem only so if you have an 06/07 with the IBC does yours work at any speed ?
 
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Old May 31, 2007 | 09:55 PM
  #2  
toolman05kr's Avatar
toolman05kr
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From: Nesconset NY
Check the voltage at the trailer brake wire by one of the trailer brakes. It should be between 10.5 and 12V when the lever is manually slid over. If this is ok pull your trailer wheels and fix those trailer brakes, they could be rusted to the back plates or out of adjustment. Hope this helps and keep us posted
 
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 12:22 AM
  #3  
blackhat620's Avatar
blackhat620
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by firesoutmatt
My 05 has the tow command with the IBC that won't lock the brakes if your under 15mph. I tried to tell the dealer it was a safty thing because I couldn't check to make sure my fiver is locked on the fifth wheel by manually locking brakes after I hook up.

I've heard that some guys were able to get Ford to replace the IBC because of this so my question is this true and how did you get Ford to replace it.

This seems to be a early 05 problem only so if you have an 06/07 with the IBC does yours work at any speed ?
When the IBC first came out it was designed to not allow full voltage to the trailer brakes when the truck was stopped. So therefore, you could not lock the trailer brakes to check your connection. After several complaints, FMC came out with new programming that let full voltage be applied to the trailer brakes with the manual lever when the truck was stopped.

However, in FMC infinite (and cost cutting) wisdom, they said that the early design models like you have were not defective and that they would not pay to change them to the new style. So the only way to get your dealer to change it is to find a sympathetic dealer that may be able to figure away to get it done under warranty. Otherwise, most of the guys that have the early design put a wheel chock under the trailer wheel, pull forward to check the connection and then get out and retrieve the chock. And yes that is a PITA.

I know this is probably not the answer you wanted to hear.
 
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