One of the nicest "features" an inground pool can have is underwater lighting, to create a visually appealing enviroment for parties/BBQ's etc.

However, if lighting is an afterthought, meaning you replaced your old beat up liner 2 years ago and poured concrete around the new coping, you're kinda screwed for installing new light housings into the pool walls. I figured out a way of doing it, but I don't have the time or the energy to embark on such an undertaking. Eventually I will, but for now, there has to be a better/cheaper/faster/monkey way of achieving inground pool lighting.

How does $15 sound?

First you weld a 1/2" OD steel tube to a 1" wide, 1/4" thick flat, end to end like so, then bore a hole through the flat into the tube for the wiring:

http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/...llights-01.JPG

Then you weld another piece of 1/4" thick steel flat on the other end, and machine it to match the back of the halogen lamp housing you purchased at home depot for $10, bulb included:

http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/...llights-02.JPG

Then you wire it:

http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/...llights-03.JPG

Then you step back and take a picture of the whole assembly so you feel good about your handiwork

http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/...llights-04.JPG

Then for testing purposes, you plug in an extension cord into a GFCI breaker that's outside, and splice an old computer cord to the wires you ran through the tube earlier, and wrap in tape for the very quick test. Then, cross your fingers, put the digital camera strap into your mouth, plug in the light, and drop it into the pool hoping you don't electrocute yourself:

http://frederic.midimonkey.com/yard/...llights-05.JPG

Then you place a brick on the steel flat that's now resting on the pool's coping, so it doesn't fall into the pool since the wiring is exposed and poorly wrapped. You then go inside, get a beer, crack it open, and sit next to the pool beer in one hand, cig in the other hand, for a long while waiting for the halogen housing to fill up with water and pop the GFCI breaker.

But wait, nothing happens. The light stays on! An hour later you unplug the light and take it out, dry it off with a towel since it's not painted and not stainless, and take the lamp housing apart and find that there is NOT EVEN ONE DROP of water inside.

Cool

So the experiment worked, and I'll buy another $10 halogen housing tomorrow, along with two 12V 100W bulbs to replace the 150W 120V bulbs, so the final version will be low voltage thus safer just in case the leak.

Also, I'll be using stainless for the flat, tubing and fixture mounting plate so they don't rust through.

 

BBBZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzttttt-*-

Hehe, too much fun again!

Seal the end of the tube well. Condensation will form inside the pipe and housing from the outside air.

 

Yep, going to make rubber plugs, RTV them and press them into the end of the tube. Then I'll be making a cover for the flat to protect it from water, wind, debris, et al.

This was just the experimental version to prove the theory that I can make a waterproof pool light for $20 or less.

 

Two wires soldered to the base of a 12V 1157/1073 etc light bulb will also work. Fish seem to dislike an electric current running thru their world so make sure you use an isolated supply. It is a good way to get rid of hydra tho!

 

Frederic, I love you with all my heart but, will you come here and show me how you find the time to do all these things.

 

Easy.

Three years of being out of work.

 

Well I thank you.I'd send money but I am self employed. The American dream, DIED during this administration! I'm looking for work my self. If you are in the Philly area Frederic, PM me.

 

Berkad -

Yeah, we shouldn't get into politics. I might open my mouth and offend about 41% of the population ;-)

Torque -

Would the 1157 actually be bright enough? One of the things I liked about the $10 150W halogen is that it's 150W. One light illuminates maybe 75% of the pool. Not all of it because of the contour of the pool itself. Two at the corners of the deep end, and it would be fully illuminated, even in the shallow end.

I'm asking because I like the idea, but didn't want to go through the effort of soldering, snaking new wires and trying it out in the current, mild steel version only to be disappointed.

Because the stainless version is going to be fully machined... and if I have to machine parts for the lamp housing I will, if the 1157 bulbs are bright enough.

A friend of mine, half kidding, suggested I make stainless "cans" and insert a round sealed headlight in the 55W range with a gasket, and solder the wires to the prongs of the lights, then use heat shrink tubing to prevent rust/electrical to water issues. Round anything is easy to fabricate and not very time consuming - lathe, round bulb, and sections of stainless schedule 40

But of course the more I re-engineer this the faster winter comes and I won't need them any longer ;-)

 

I was thinking you were going to use headlamps when I first saw this thread-
Seem like a good solution, low voltage so if there is a leak, nobody gets bit, and most of the waterproofing/engineering is taken care of for you.

 

An 1157 is just a taillight bulb. A headlight could be used also. Either one could be soldered to the end of a piece of zip cord. The auto bulbs would last a long time underwater with all the heat transfered away by the water.

 

if this is your sick twisted way of knocking me off on the 30'th so you can become the chapter leader, you are out of luck, cause i don't do pools.

so you better think of a better way. like maybe arsnic in the burgers, or cyanide in the jack danials.

 

I have no urge to be chapter leader, but if I wanted to bump you off, I'd achieve such a feat in a signficantly more spetacular way.

This way, you have a "proper", newsworthy "sending off" ;-)

So, since you aren't into pools, I guess you're the designated towel boy.

 

Frederic would make an excellent MECHANIC!

 

Who me? I'm just a monkey with a few wrenches and some crazy ideas.

 

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