HEY FELLAS I HAVE 96 F250 XLT 4X4 W/ 460 & E40D, HAD THE TRANNY START LEAKING FROM UNDER THE BELL HOUSING THRU DUST CAP WAS STEADY DRIPPIN I DROVE DIRECTLY TO MY MECHANIC, WE PUT 4 QTS FLUID IN IT AND STILL WAS LOW BUT IT SLOWLY STOPPED DRIPPIN I FILLED IT I THINK IT TOOK ANOTHER 2 QTS AND IT HASN'T DRIPPED A DROP SINCE. WHAT THE HELL HAPPENED AND WHY??? IT DOESN'T FEEL REAL STRONG MAKES A KIND OF WHINNY RATTLING NOISE WHEN U GET ON IT, THE PREVIOUS OWNER USED TO HAUL A LARGE SLIDE IN CAMPER TO UP STATE NY FROM FL. ANY WORDS OF WISDOM TO WHAT IS GOING ON WITH IT WOULD BE GREAT CUZ I HAVE SOME TRAILERS THAT I INTENDED TO HAUL W/ THIS TRUCK BUT I'M AFRAID I MAY NEED A REBUILD, LET ME KNOW WHAT U THINK. THANX

 

I wonder what would happen if you had it manually over ridden to keep it locked up and forgot and tried to stop

 

So this thread has some age to it and none of the pics will show up any more. I was wanting to find what wires I am looking for. I read it is called C103 and its under the master cylinder, and I am looking for a purple wire with a yellow stripe. All I need to do is put a switch on it that will ground it out and it will hold in the gear I flipped the switch in, sound right? The main purpose I am after is to stop the truck from down shifting excessively from OD to 3rd while under a load, it seems like smaller inclines on the interstate at around 70mph will cause it to kick out of OD when I have my camper with me and I just wish I could make it hold in gear. Also will this cause the check engine light to come on?

 

IDI DIESEL E4OD
E4OD torque converter manual control (off-auto-lock) by LCAM-01XA.

this is the way to go boys.fail safe idiot proof.

by LCAM-01XA:
Update: do NOT use the 22k-ohm resistor!
measure TCS resistance put the multimeter probe leads on the red wire (solenoid pack common power feed) and the purple/yellow wire (TCS to PCM connection), set the multimeter to 200-ohm range, and take its reading. I got 20 ohms with the ignition OFF, and from what I gathered on the internets this is what it should be (however don't just take my word for it, and go crawl under YOUR truck and measure YOUR converter solenoid's resistance).

 

One other option to look into is a tuner. I can tune basically all engine and transmission parameters with my tuner. After adjusting my shift points, up and down, line pressure and tcc lockup points my truck drove much differently.....almost like a manual in that it always seems to be in the right gear and shift at the right time. Only way to go for me.

 

please, I have a 95 f350 5.7 gas with E40D, when I put it in drive the engine dies. help I'm at a lost. Alfred

 

Wow... there's a "drive-by poster" if I ever saw one!

Try searching on here for your answer. If you can't find anything, start a new post. Use a descriptive title (something better than HELP ME!!) and tell us about your truck. Any work done recently? When did this start happening? Mods? Other issues show up at the same time as this one? Got any codes?

 

I thank you for your response, but I can not find any where,or anything that will alow me to start a tread. I be leave that this site is lacking in that form. Can you get the moderator to contact me and show me how to start a new tread or something. Thank you Alfred.

 

1.click this link:
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

2.see attached pic.

 

If I cut the wire,and put it on a switch will the engine die if I have the wire open. My truck dies when I come to a stop now.

 

If I cut the wire,and put it on a switch will the engine die if I have the wire open. My truck dies when I come to a stop now.

 

if you cut the wire and the engine doesn't stall anymore,then you know the ecm is telling the converter to lock when it shouldn't.

 

What is the pros and cons to this and does it help with towing

 

imho there are no pro's to this making it worthwhile if everything is working correctly.
it's all automatically controlled for very good reason. you should be well advanced in automatic function of the trans,but then again if you are,you probably know better than to do it and simply opt for an "unlock" only mod if anything imho.

however,some feel there are pro's and they include,but not limited to;

increased fuel economy (when locked a little earlier than oem speeds,but not too soon or you'll harm the trans,or lug the engine)
increased transmission back pressure for braking (when left locked and braking,but not too slow or you'll harm the trans)
leaving the converter unlocked for city driving so it's not hunting between lock/unlock state (but watch them trans temps,they could spike!)
higher rpms while in 3rd and od
lower rpms while in 2nd


the cons can be numerous and they include but are not limited to;
engine failure
failed torque converter
complete transmission failure
failed/cracked flex plate due to not unlocking when downshifting
excessive converter lockup disc material ware due to locking too early,and or not unlocking momentarily between 3-4 or 4-3 shifts.
burnt transmission fluid
front seal failure due to leaving converter unlocked without watching temps and or adding larger aux cooler for running in an unlocked state for extended periods
transmission error codes
engine stalling
unsafely being pushed through traffic stops/lights in the event you forget to unlock
decreased fuel economy
higher rpms while in 3rd and od

 

Yea ill be leaving mine the way it is thanks for the info