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Old May 23, 2007 | 04:12 PM
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Talking 351w no go

I have a 1984 f-150 with a 351w 2bbl and automatic. it idles very rough and wants to stall. in park and neutral it will rev up to around 4k rpm, but in drive it falls flat on its face. I can get it up to 20mph, very rough acceleration. I have the throttle plate zip tied open cause the plate wanted to stick shut. It's been running great, and started bogging down today after sitting for about an hour. Sounds like all 8 are firing. any help would be appreciated!!
 
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Old May 23, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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You got the throttle plate tied open or the choke plate? Choke is on top.
 
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Old May 23, 2007 | 04:42 PM
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Try a fuel filter or ban ice. Sounds like water in the fuel to me to happen all at once.
 
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Old May 23, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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sounds like the choke pull off is bad. They pull the choke open just a bit when it gets vacuum...like as soon as it starts.....that way the choke plate is not stuck shut blocking off all the air. Sounds like it's loading up on you with it close and now you have it wide open and it runs lean when it's cold...

after it warms up does it run ok?

What kind of carb and whats the numbers on it.....
 
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Old May 24, 2007 | 02:48 AM
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it is the choke plate, not throttle ( my mistake). it ran worse when it was hot. I will do the filter tomorrow, along with adding 10 gallons 89 octaine and mixing a bottle of HEET to remove water, if there is any. Keep it coming with the sugestions, i will try em all.

anyone think seafoam will work?

I will check the numbers on the carb. It is a stock 351w, i would assume a stock 2bbl also.
 

Last edited by lowridaz22; May 24, 2007 at 02:51 AM.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 05:21 AM
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ran worse hot with it open or closed............?
 
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Old May 24, 2007 | 06:29 AM
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E4TZ-9S514-A .. Control Assy Vacuum Break (Choke Pulloff) [Motorcraft CK-2176]

Fits: 1984 F150 351W 2V with A/T

Calibration Code #380 / Carb ID # E4TE-9510-ACA (carb parts list 95.2AH)
 
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Old May 24, 2007 | 08:19 AM
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perhaps the carb just needs rebuilt. how do all the spark plugs look and how old are the wires,cap and rotor?
 
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Old May 24, 2007 | 09:24 AM
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After rereading yer post it sounds to my like ya sucked an intake or carb base gasket. I would most definitly look into a major vacuum leak. I luv the Windsor. Fords best small block sence the 289.
 
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Old May 24, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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runs worse hot with it open. I zip tied the choke plate open cause it will stick closed while i'm driving. I replaced the carb. base gaskets last week. plugs, wires, cap, rotor last month.. and i checked the resistance on the wires and they are fine. gettin to work on it again in a few.

money isn't an issue.... i can just get a new carb if i need to. i would rather buy new than rebuild.

Thanks numberdummy! that's a great help!
 

Last edited by lowridaz22; May 24, 2007 at 02:04 PM.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 03:20 PM
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Again please check for vacuum leaks. Could be a hose or gasket. If the Dizzy is vacuum adv than check to make sure it don't have any vacuum at idle. If ya disconnect the vacuum to the dizzy and plug it. Does it idle better or worse? And does the timing change. Sorry I don't remember if ya have vacuum or a spout connector on your Dizzy.
 
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Old May 24, 2007 | 03:45 PM
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what is your timing set at?
 
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Old May 24, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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ok you have to wire the choke open........get a new carb one with a manual choke.
 
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Old May 24, 2007 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HemiEater
ok you have to wire the choke open........get a new carb one with a manual choke.
If the OP is in an area that requires emission testing before new registration can be given, a carb like that might prevent the vehicle from passing.
 
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Old May 24, 2007 | 05:24 PM
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I agree, if you need to pass emissions, you should check to make sure the carb can pass. I know a lot of performance carbs guarantee that you won't.
 
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