Get 'em from a reputable dealer with good name brands. Sorry Can't remember mine... I think Bendix. Cauchy you mentioned 4 rotors???????? Just curious if you have rear rotors. If I am reading correctly you counted one side as two, not sure. Also keep an eye on the "bad" rotor and make sure not to wear it down too quickly as it will wear faster than the others. I would suggest making the fix you just did last till the "bad" rotor wears out the pad and then doing it all over again and replacing the rotors. It will not be hard just a little more complex than what you just did. Let us know when you do it andd we can help.

Sorry I didn't catch if it was 2WD or $WD and if auto or manual hubs. That would help tremendously.

 

If you have a way to measure the rotor on the bottom of that groove you should check before replacing it. The minimum thickness is normally stamped somewhere on it. Probably on the inside but it's there somewhere.
I usually turn mine every 3-4 brake jobs but I never let them get that worn. I replace them at the halfway point. Thick pads absorb more heat than thin ones and I've never warped a rotor in my life doing it like that.

A lot of auto parts stores now have brake lathes. I am not sure if I would recommend going to one but if you think the guy doing it is experienced enough it should be ok. Firestone or goodyear should have a really experienced mechanic that could turn them right. They take walk in's all the time. I've worked at both of them.
I quit working on cars for the same reason as stated above. I can't bring myself to ripping people off. The way mechanics are paid encourages lying and deceit. They have to put food on the table someway I know but it's the most crooked racket on the planet. I actually got fired form one firestone job where I was the foreman for not pushing the transmission and coolant flushes.
It's a scam and I don't believe in them so I never told customers about it.
It's better just to change the fluid and filters. Flushing just pushes some of the old fluid out with new or (usually at that place, recycled fluid) What a scam!

 

I agree, totally! I rarely turn rotors anymore, I just replace them with new ones. Especially the newer cars, they don't have a lot of meat on them to begin with. Our trucks have one of the most durable rotor designs going. I'm still on the original ones at 198K (no turings). My 87 (Same design) went 250K +/-, no turning on those either.

You are a man of integrity, you should start your own repair shop with those ethics in mind. People will beat a path to your door. I know of a couple repair shops in my area that do business that way and are very, very successful.

I hate rip-offs

 

cuda is right u should open your own shop with other guys just like you. i would love to have my own shop where people could come and know that they are getting the truth. i work part time at sears auto center, hopefully for not too much longer. we are doing this new "transmission Fluid exchange" (ripoff). we suck all the old fluid out the pan through the dipstick tube and put new in. i dont recommend to customers, it's a wast of money not changing the filter. would you change your engine oil and not change filter, of course not. same thing with the coolant exchange. we push the old out with new antifreeze. the other day i was told to do a coolant exchange on a car where the traditional coolant had been mixed with extended life and it got all gummed up and needed a good flushing job. i told my manager and showed him the mess in the radiator. he said do it anyway. wasting the customers money. it's all about the sale and the commission made off it. ticks me right off.

 

Skittlejr, Is it just a coincidence or are the people that exibit higher standards and integrity usually have something to do with the military. I don't think so. Thanks for your service in the Marines. There are many, many more out there that need to hear this everyday. This weekend was tough.

 

Gentlemen:

Thanks for the input and information. I think I found a reputable shop to replace the hub, so I will get to it in a week or two. I won't be driving much anyway, since I am off for the summer.

So far as I know, rotors are in the $100-$150 range, and pulling/replacing the rotor and repacking the bearing shouldn't break the bank. I will remove and replace the caliper bracket bolts this weekend, with loktite.

As soon as I get the job done I will post the specs. I probably could pull the rotor myself but I am slammed with finishing a sprinkler system, then we have company coming in, Dr's appointments, milk the cows, slop the pigs, feed the chickens, etc, etc.

Anyway, thanks again and I truly appreciate your help.

James

 

just for future reference the F250 front ends, Dana 50's, use the exact same rotors as the 60's. i dunno about you but j-yards around here are covered with 250's and i can pick up an almost brand new for $10

food for thought

-cutts-

 

Good call fisherdude. Buy and turn, HUH

 

just doin my part, nice to hear those kinds of words in the world we live in today. thank the families of my fallen brothers.

thanks for the tip fishman, i'll have to check there for my rotors

 

My prayers are with everybody involved. God Bless. (no disclaimers required!!!!!!!!)

 

I actually do have my own shop here but I'm really picky about what I work on. I am mostly a military armorer/gunsmith but when I have time I work on international, kubota and ford trucks and tractors. Nothing else any more.

I too worked at sears once right when I got out of the Navy. I was an alignment tech back then. They did nothing but tick me off. They merged with some other company then dropped everyones pay to an amount so small I couldn't even pay the snap on man. Then they ran the snap on man off saying it was a conflict of interest since sears sells tools. The final straw for me was when I walked into the tool department to swap some broken sockets and the idiot told me they weren't warranted for industrial use. I guess working in their own shop qualified as industrial. In arguing with the manager about it I quit. I've worked over the years for firestone, ford, GM and a couple of machine shops. Even went back in the service for a while. It's sure nice working for myself for a change and being able to tell customers what's really wrong with their trucks. Not what would make the most money for the shop.

 

wow dan that sounds just like my store. they hassle the tool trucks. don't pay us for work we do. i am currently trying to get out of there, but right now i just need the extra money it gives me above my regular job. i wasn't there when the pay dropped but i've heard about that before.

 

I think it was some other tire chain they bought. I remember they cut my pay from 12.75 to 6.50. Everyone went to 6.50 nationally. I should have quit right then. I was fresh out of the service though trying to support a family on civilian pay. I went back in pretty soon after that mess. I don't know how civilians do it.
All I ever knew was military life. If I didn't have the farm now I'd be back in again . At least I get to work on guns for the guys over there in the sand box. There are very few armorers left in that know the M-14 like I do. I do all the wood stocked US rifles.

Anyway, I think it's time for me to turn my rotors. I was coming home a few days ago with the horse trailer attached and I warped one of the front rotors slightly coming down a mountain. I almost caught the trailer brakes on fire though. I should have turned the rotors when I put pads on last time since I switched it to ceramics. You rarely get away with out turning them when you make that switch. They sure stop good though. Just noisy is all since I didn't turn the rotors too.
I learned how to reline brake shoes at the tractor dealer I worked at a few years ago. I am planning to do that this weekend on the backend. It's not really any cheaper than replacing the shoes but I know when I glue on the new linings that it isn't going to come off.

 

sounds like you need to do the ebpv engine brake mod.