The A/C in my Expy takes 12-15 min to cool all of the way with 80 degree outside temp. It does get cold, but it takes a while. Does this happen in yours, or do I need a recharge. If I do need a recharge, is it a DIY project? How much will it cost. What would a dealer charge if it isn't a DIY.

 

Hard to know without gauges. Take it to someone who knows what they are doing around Ac systems before you get hurt.

 

I find that turning rear A/C up to high cuts the truck cool down by many minutes.

 

Recharing the AC is not a DIY repair. You need to evacuate the system which required a vacuum pump. You are not allowed to discharge the refrigerant into the atmosphere, you need to reclaim it. Add compressor oil then recharge the system. More equipment than the typical guy will have at home.

 

Its could be a little low on freon . To be shure you need guages to check .
Adding freon does not require draining and evacuating or is it nessary unless all the freon leaked out or is drained to replace conponets.

 

I didn't think that they used freon anymore. Isn't there a new refrigerant in todays cars? Anyways, I do cut on the rear A/C and that does definately help. If my car does cool down do I still need a recharge? I know German cars will blow ice chunks at you. It this just typical of this car. It is my wifes car, so I don't drive it very much. Thanks for the input so far.

 

Right....it's not Freon any more. I take mine to a local A/C place that charged me about 70 bucks last time to check pressure, make sure they couldn't find an obvious leak and add a quarter pund of refrigerant.

 

You ar correct, its not freon, its R134A refrigerant. I use to be the climate control systems engineer for Ford/Visteon for luxury vehicles (Lincoln). Same basic principal.

You DO need to evacuuate the system to get the system to accept additional charge. The refrigerant you get from the autopart store does not have the pressure rating to be able to overcome a partially presurized system. If the system was totally void, then you might get some refrigerant into the system, but definitely not a full charge. The system ned to be evacuated so the vacuum draws the refrigerant into the sysytem. And when yo have it done. make sure they add the proper #oz of oil to the system before the refrigerant. The oil is needed to lubricate the compressor. When you evac the system, you remove the lube as well as the refrig.

Low refrigerant may not be the issue. It could be several different things. It could be that you are low on coolant, could have a dirty condensor. Could have a leaky orifice valve or TXV depending on the system. The other factor is that when it is really hot and humid, the rate of cooling is increased.

There is one thing I failed to ask. Is your climate control system a manual or an EATC (Electronic Automatic Temperature Control)? If manual, it simplier, if EATC, there are other factors.

One thing you can do to increase cooling is to 1) turn on the rear A/C. This will help cool the rear. It does take some away fromt je front system, but the overall effect makes for a precieved rapid cooling effect. 2) Make sure the system has the recirculation door closed.. ie, max A/C. Depending onthe year, you may have a manual recirc door button on the control head. And 3) While it sounds backwards, crack the rear windows a bit when you start driving so as to create a vacuum when yo uare driving. Then venture effect will increase the airflow from the front A/C system. Sort of the same prinicipal as trying to blow air into a full balloon.

Hope this helps. If you have other quesitons... shoot me a pm.

Frank T

 

The AC in my 98 would not cool at all this spring. I got this recharge kit off ebay and added two cans. It took about 5 minutes with no extra tools or gauges and it's been blowing ice cold for over a month now. In some states you can buy these kits at auto parts stores, but not here in WI.

 

"Freon" is the official name of R-12 refrigerant (I think it's patented by Dupont, but not positive). While R134a technically isn't "freon", a lot of people still call it that.

Kind of like Xeroxing something. "Xerox" is a company that developed copy equipment.. but not the only company, but still people call a "Xerox" a "Xerox" regardless if it was done on Xerox equipment or not.

Anyways.. you can have one of three issues going on... 1> Low R134a charge. 2> Abnormal system pressures due to a system restriction or poor performing compressor. 3> Mechanical problem with blend door or temperature door operation.

You really need a good quality set of A/C gauges to verify any of these conditions. You COULD try adding some and you might get lucky, but if it doesn't work out you'll end up with an overcharge condition which will hinder A/C operation.. then you'll have to pay someone to evacuate anyway (as it is illegal to release it into the atmosphere). If nothing else it may be worth your while to have it professionally diagnosed...

But if you want to buy some gauges, let us know what they are reading and we'll try to help! Just keep in mind you do have a problem. If you're not happy with performance at 80degrees, you'll really be sweating when it 95-100 out. Good luck.

 

I guess it is fine. I drive a BMW 540i. Much smaller and cools off much faster. I do tend to be an impatient man. Thanks for all of the replies. The suggestions did make a difference.

 

if it is low on "freon" or r134a. you do dont have to evacuate it in order to charge your system. if it is low it will take the can.

 

Where are the two A/C port (high and low side). I have a 2000 E/B with rear air.

 

In the engine compartment. If you cannot identify them, and the difference between them, then you should have someone qualified locate them and service your a/c.

My 2C.

 

I have located the high side (larger one), it is sitting right on top next to the battery. But I have looked all over and cannot locate the low side connector (smaller one). I have serviced other systems in the past, my other vehicles ('87 Mustang 5.0 and '93 Taurus SHO) are easily located - although one of the SHO ports is under a cover on the firewall.

I have looked down by the compressor also. I can identify where the lines for the rear air tee into the main lines. I have been told that I am blind (by my wife, and in this case I may truly be blind). I am not looking for sarcasm, just help to find the connector, please help.