WHen my engine is cold starter cranks engine fast.

When engine is hot, starter is slow. It is enought to start engine, but, I can not undestand why?

I tried to switch starter on with ignition off. And the same effect.

Yes, my battery is old, but started lust winter when it was cold.

What is the poltergeist under the hood?

 

starter motor rotor or bendix drive is distorting and binding from the exhaust manifold heat.
the 3L exh. manifold is very close to the starter.
does yours have a heat shield?
exhaust leak spraying onto starter?

try a fiberglass or asbestos heat blanket shield from truck exhaust

had a '69 Ford Thunderbird with 429 ci. CJ 390 hp engine...starter would get too hot in summer from exhaust manifold heat and seize.
would have to park 4>8 hrs until cool enough to spin and start. heat blanket solved problem

 

The starter could be dragging, but IMO, it's time for a new battery. Since it's old and about due to be replaced, it's a heck of a lot easier replacing the battery than the starter. Get one with more cranking amps than what's in there now.

Battery Group ~ standard battery: BXT-64-A / Super Heavy Duty: BTT-64



(Some of those 429 T-Birds in the late 1960's had R-24-F batteries. Totally inefficent for the car. Changing to an R-27-F or FA solved the problems).

 

I have 55-ah battery. It is 4 years old, but enought to run engine.

I see that there is no heat shield near starter. I gonna make it this weekend. My aero is prepared for new life. I wanna repare body with welding, cutting, welding in new panels and repainting her. After that I wanna purchaise Pegeout 2.8 Turbodiesel with EDC and distributor-type electronically controlled hight pressure fuel pump with sensor on #2 injector and put it in my aero. The next step - add bosch 4ch ABS.

 

Let me know how that Bosch 4 channel ABS goes, I may want to consider adding one to my Aerostar.

 

When everything is cold check the voltage drop at the battery when try to start. Compare this to how much it drops when everything is hot. They should be close to the same. If not the battery is near the end of it's life.

 

Check and clean all the cable connections from the battery to the starter. I had a similar hot-start problem with a 1985 LTD. The starter spun the engine very fast when cold, but "lumped" over when hot. I checked, tested and replaced a lot of things before I noticed an arcing connection at the starter solenoid. It passed enough current when cold to spin the starter, but the extra current draw when hot dropped the voltage too low.

Good luck with your troubleshooting.

Cheers,
Eric

(edited for poor spelling - E.)

 

Good advice, check all starter connections, check the nuts which hold the thick red cables to the starter solenoid next to the battery. Heat makes a loose nut even more loose !

If battery cranks cold engine then it should easily crank HOT engine. Can check with Hydrometer to be sure. No load voltage fully charged battery should give about 12.6- 12.8 volts.

Aeroman

 

Checked starter draw when hot and when cold. Cold starter use less power, but cranks faster. Poltergeist under the hood.

 

You can put a Bosch 20amp relay close to the starter to gain more cranking power--it is like having a starter relay closer to the starter, which should help overcome the heat problem.

 

Something is getting tight, maybe expanding or warping when hot, is the inertia gear binding on the flywheel ring gear ? Do you have manual trans/ clutch ?

Aeroman.

 

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You can put a Bosch 20amp relay close to the starter to gain more cranking power--it is like having a starter relay closer to the starter, which should help overcome the heat problem.
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It is done. Else it is impossible to start when it is cold.... -35 dgr C outdoors!



Aeroman, I have manual tranny for 7 years. Of course I tried to start with clutch fully depressed.

 

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Let me know how that Bosch 4 channel ABS goes, I may want to consider adding one to my Aerostar.
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I wanna get used ABS of Mercedes with diagnose K-line. The problem is, how to install all the rings and speed sensors. This is a real problem with aero.

 

Pablo, I wrapped my Aerostar's exhaust with Thermo-Tec exhaust installation. It cuts ambient exhaust heat by 60% off of the starter and transmission bellhousing area on the Aerostar (mine is an '87 XLT 3.0 V6)

I then replaced my ground cable with a 2 guage ground cable. (stock is 4 guage) engine starts immediately in heat soak conditions on 108 degree summer days. It comes with a pigtail connection. I also added my own pigtail, a 14 guage wire (black) running from negative batter cable to fender bolt (no paint on bolt and fender. Protect from surface rust with a dab of dialetric grease or battery corrision gel) head Lights are all very bright white, when under a full load - AC on max, windsheild wipers on, radio on, defroster on, ect. Grounding is a forgotten thought, many times.

suggestion of relays is also a very good idea, with the issue of overheating heatlight switches.

Replace starter relay on fenderwell. I like the factory Motorcraft part. Ford Parts Dept. stocks 50 at all times. Well worth the few extra bucks as compared to various aftermarket pieces, Wells, ect.

Do that, splurge and get a good, solid, powerful battery in your Aerostar! Even junk or winterbeater Aerostars benefit from strong batteries, as electrical components (wiring ect.) benefit as they age, and the weather conditions our vans are exposed to. Yes, it's tempting to slap in the $29.99 battery -- but sometimes the better stuff is well worth it, and a month later, you don't miss the extra $60 -- $80 anyway!!

Last, based on your starter description, it's a roll of the dice of it's usefull life left. Heat takes it's toll over time. If it fails, it's either not going to start (turn over engine) clicking only sound, or engine will start and starter will stick trying to turn the engine over, and the engine is already running! The later is a nightmare, it happened to me once -- truly terrifying. (Aeroman 59's Post)

Good luck. Doing my suggestions, your Aerostar will start a long long time down the road! All others here too, excellent ideas!

 

I've did exaust insulation too. Problem dissapeared.

I'm going to replace 3.0 V6 with turbo diesel. I 've read much about different engines, my friend converted 2 aeros, 2 rangers, 1 f150 and suburban to diesel.

Best diesel engines for Aero and Ranger are 2.2 Mazda E2200, 2.3 Mitsubisi L200, Cummins 3.9 (w/o turbo), Pegeout 2.5 TDI (used on Transit and Ranger) and 2.5-3.2 Mercedes Sprinter engines.

The cheappest is Pegeout engine and I can use ford tranny with it. So less modifications. Unfortunatly I have to purchaise PS pump braket, alternator and a/c compressor for this engine. I'm going to get used engine in Germany ore France, deliver it here in container for spare wheel under the semi-trailer and install next year. Approximatte budget is $800-1200. about results FTE will learn first.

Next Idea - to install FWD axe and to add manual t-case, lift suspentoin and make my aero snow fields qween.