Valve cover leak
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New User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Canada
Valve cover leak
Do I need to take off the plenum to change the gasket on my leaking 1989 passenger side valve cover? That looks like a lot of junk to take off...
If I do have to take it off are there any good links to info here?
(Just changed the heater core today... that wasn't bad at all.).
If I do have to take it off are there any good links to info here?
(Just changed the heater core today... that wasn't bad at all.).
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2007
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is this a big job?- well yes, it is a pretty big job to change a couple gaskets. its not super techy, but it takes a pretty good amount of time because a lot of stuff has to come off to get access to the covers. the plenum isnt too hard to take off, but it definitely has to move to get to that passenger side cover. when you get it off just make sure you plug the holes to the lower intake with rags so that nothing falls in. i would recommend getting good gaskets with some sort of metal insert in them as opposed to cheap cork gaskets. if you have someone to help you with the job its a lot easier due to the time it usually takes and the amount of stuff you have to remember to reconnect. hope this helps some.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,978
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From: Central PA
Remove all vac hoses and air tubes, eletrical conections ,and small cooling lines,for just the upper plenum.
Remove 2 bolts for egr valve. (has a line that come up from exhaust to front top of up/intake.) get a gasket for it to.
Remove all 6 bolts for upper. The one in the split is a torx T40 . I just get a cheap set of Assorted screw driver bits .(for cordless drill ,just make sure have torx. I tape the bit in a 1/4 drive ratchet socket with long extension and get at it through slot.
Remove nut from bracket that come up from exhaust (This take stress off up/intake)
I'm sure I forgot something but you should be able to lift off. Get a new gasket for it.
you should be able to see everything check all emission tubes on back of engine while its off for rust. And check injectors for leakage the o-ring kits are not $$ and if leaking now is time.
Get the good gaskets not cork one as they last longer.
I'm sure I missed something but it should get you well on way to removing you intake . Good luck LOSTIN90's
Remove 2 bolts for egr valve. (has a line that come up from exhaust to front top of up/intake.) get a gasket for it to.
Remove all 6 bolts for upper. The one in the split is a torx T40 . I just get a cheap set of Assorted screw driver bits .(for cordless drill ,just make sure have torx. I tape the bit in a 1/4 drive ratchet socket with long extension and get at it through slot.
Remove nut from bracket that come up from exhaust (This take stress off up/intake)
I'm sure I forgot something but you should be able to lift off. Get a new gasket for it.
you should be able to see everything check all emission tubes on back of engine while its off for rust. And check injectors for leakage the o-ring kits are not $$ and if leaking now is time.
Get the good gaskets not cork one as they last longer.
I'm sure I missed something but it should get you well on way to removing you intake . Good luck LOSTIN90's
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New User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Canada
Thanks - that sounds like a good start. Not sure if I understand it all, or know what to look for yet (emission tubes, charge injectors etc.)
So parts:
- gasket for EGR valve
- gasket for valve cover
- gasket for plenum
I should post some photos.
(off topic - What's the best method to test if your thermostat is working, take temp measurement of something after running for a while? Is that thermo easy to get to? I recall that my oil dip stick gets very hot and when you pull it out sometimes it seem the middle of the stick is so hot it steams or smokes).
So parts:
- gasket for EGR valve
- gasket for valve cover
- gasket for plenum
I should post some photos.
(off topic - What's the best method to test if your thermostat is working, take temp measurement of something after running for a while? Is that thermo easy to get to? I recall that my oil dip stick gets very hot and when you pull it out sometimes it seem the middle of the stick is so hot it steams or smokes).
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,978
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From: Central PA
Go for the pictures. To be honest once you get started its all common sense as to how it comes apart .
I forgot to say you have to remove (the thing under black cover)plate on top of intake that hold throttle cable and just move out way . It wont mess up any adjustments .
As for the tubes just look at all plumbing back there to see if any emissions stuff going bad. The tube from cat to valve on back of motor rust out and it it easier to get at with the upper off.
And if the injectors look damp you have one seeping. If the ride has over 130000 mile I usually pull the injectors out and put new o-rings on but if they are dry just leave them alone . If needed the o-ring kits are cheap and you will probably need 2 set . I can't figure out way Napa's kit only has enough oring to do 4 injectors (each injector has 2 o-rings
Thermostat old school take it out and put in boiling water to see if opens . I just replace it while you in there. Watch the small by pass hose if it feels hard replace while your in there.
The dip stick runs right by exhaust manifold so it dose get hot .
Good luck
I forgot to say you have to remove (the thing under black cover)plate on top of intake that hold throttle cable and just move out way . It wont mess up any adjustments .
As for the tubes just look at all plumbing back there to see if any emissions stuff going bad. The tube from cat to valve on back of motor rust out and it it easier to get at with the upper off.
And if the injectors look damp you have one seeping. If the ride has over 130000 mile I usually pull the injectors out and put new o-rings on but if they are dry just leave them alone . If needed the o-ring kits are cheap and you will probably need 2 set . I can't figure out way Napa's kit only has enough oring to do 4 injectors (each injector has 2 o-rings
Thermostat old school take it out and put in boiling water to see if opens . I just replace it while you in there. Watch the small by pass hose if it feels hard replace while your in there.
The dip stick runs right by exhaust manifold so it dose get hot .
Good luck
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New User
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For those who are thinking of removing the top plenum. If you want to make life a lot easier for yourself and to do this job. I have done this job both ways, believe me it is much better with the right tool. It's worth the $7or8 bucks best you will ever spend. Look at this web site Wiha Professional Quality Tools Home Page
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From: El dorado, Arkansas
Technical tip
One good way to prevent another valve cover leak. I was taught this by my old boss who is probably one of the best mechanics I have ever met. Alot of valve cover leaks happen because of the bolts loosening up due to the motor heating and cooling. To prevent this, you take each of the valve cover bolts and wrap them with teflon tape before you put them back in. Not alot, just 2 to 3 wraps. Pull the tape tight while you are wrapping them. This works like a thread locker. Tighten the covers down to specs. I have done this one every set of valve cover gaskets I have changed since he told me this and not one of them has ever leaked again. Not to mention it also works like anti seize and helps stop the bolts from setting up and breaking off if you ever have to pull them for another reason(valve job, head gasket, things of this nature). Good luck. Sounds like you are just getting into working on cars. Just remember, it helps to lay everything out as you take it off. It makes it easier to remember how it goes back on.
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