You have the 4R70W transmission. I'm not familiar with those as much as E4OD's and 4R100's, but I think they share similarities in operation.

So let me get this straight. When you turn Overdrive off by using the button on the end of your shift ****, does it feel like it is still "going in and out of gear?" If it does it, then its the torque converter. If you have the OD off and it doesnt "go in and out of gear", then the torque converter is still a possible cause to your problems, but could also be other things.

When you get your code reader let me know what you get in terms of codes. I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say you'll get one of the following codes:

p1700, p1702, p1704, p1710, p1711 (p1711 relates with transmission temp sensor,) p1713 through p172, p1740, or p1740-p1745, which those last 6 deal with the torque converter clutch solenoid. You may also get many others somewhere in the p1750's-1789, which all deal with the tranny also. p1783 is another one to watch for, as it deals with transmission being over temperature (caused by faulty sensor.)

Hopefully when you pull your codes you will get something that points you in the right direction. If the torque converter is locking and unlocking, then we can rule out the torque converter itself because of the fact that it is doing what it's told. We might be looking at replacing the solenoid body.

One more thing before I forget. I want you to drive this thing at night around 55 or 60 MPH and check to make sure that your brake lights are not blinking on. If you're a two-footed driver and constantly have your foot rested on the brake, go ahead and kick yourself ahead of time. If the brakes are engaged the littlest bit enough to make the rear lights kick on, your torque converter will unlock. Just some more info for everyone out there.

 

Your hard shifting could be due to the Throttle Position sensor, especially if you've got a Check engine light on...this will make it seem like something is wrong with your tranny.

 

Im aware that it could TPS, MLPS, solenoid, torque convertor or probably other things but I'm gonna wait till my code scanner comes in the mail before I start buying parts. Handyman, it only goes in and out in overdrive, it seems pretty normal with OD off, except for kinda hard shift from 1st to 2nd. But the hard shift is worse with OD on. It only goes in and out when in 4th or OD I believe, and it only does it when going up a hill or if on flat ground, when I step on it. Hope that make sence. I think I will change fluid and filter even though the fluid looks new. One more question , how do I drain the fluid in the torque convertor, and then how do I fill it?

 

O and Im not a two footed driver. lol

 

Alrighty, just making sure.

A bad throttle position sensor would also cause the engine to run bad too. A bad TPS usually won't throw a code because of the fact that the only code for it is if it has too high or too low of voltage on the output side. Usually there just becomes a dead spot in the TPS, thus the computer doesn't sense it.

On the flip side of the coin, if it keeps going in and out of overdrive, that concerns me. But please define the situation a little more in depth. Does it kick in and out as you're climbing a hill at about 45 MPH, or 55 for that matter? Or if you're running down the highway doing 65, does it kick in and out?

 

Well I got my codes, 136, 141, 401. Nothing to do with trans. I've only noticed it while going up big hills in overdrive. I also pulled my small boat in overdrive before I new how to turn it off. Thats when I had most of my troubles. Plus I've only had it for about 3 weeks and havent really driven it much. Last time I drove it it only did it once. I started up a big hill going 55, started to slow down so I gave it more gas. Thats when rpm's when up slightly before leveling off about where they were. Like it slipped slightly. Today once I noticed it felt like it hesitated when I stepped on it. Almost like when I stepped on it the motor didnt respond right away. Thats the first time I noticed that. It has a lot of miles 237,000. Maybe TPS or maybe I dont know what I'm talking about? Maybe its fine. It seems the hard shift is worse when its cold.

 

I told you what the hard shift was.

DO A SEARCH

 

I have done many a search and I did see that thread. And you may be right too. I think tomorrow I'll drain fluid and check out that spring. Do you remember what I had to take off, so I don't have too search again.

 

I joined the forum specifically to offer a posible solution to this problem. I have a 1994 Ford 150XL 2WD with an L4.6 engine. I had shifting problems, described as follows. The truck would shift very hard from 1st to 2nd gear; sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. It wouldn't do it all the time, but on the times that it did, it felt like the hard shifting would tear up something in the tranny. Also I've experienced, while cruising along at 55 to 65 mph, the truck would all of a sudden pull out of gear, then re-engage, but hard.

I took the truck to the local mechanic, but he couldn't find anything. He changed the fluid & filter; still no resolve. I was on the verge of getting rid of the truck for a newer one, because my only thought at this point was "need a new transmission ($$$)".

Solution to my problem: After talking to a tranny specialist. He said that my problem sounded more consistent with what he called a "Range Sensor (also called a neutral safety switch)". A plastic module (located underneath the truck, drivers side, just behind the tranny). It's that module that has a rod connected to it, with a wire harness connected at the top, held on by 2 nuts. I changed the sensor out myself (part was $70 from a local dealership). I had to changed the way the factory harness was connected, even though it was a genuine ford part (ask for more details if needed); but all the parts needed for the plug conversion was supplied in the box. Now the truck shifts like new. No problems! I hope this helps.

Regards,
EMoe

 

Thank you EMoeFord. Those range position sensors were a common problem.

This sensor tells what tranny what gear your in, and allows the computer to control the pump pressure. If you're going down the highway and that sensor shorts out, and tells the computer that it's in "nuetral," the computer will adjust the pump pressure accordingly, even though physically it's still in drive. That would make it feel like the truck goes into nuetral, if it's doing that.

The transmission would sense this. These tranny's were designed to shift hard if it senses any slippage whatsoever. If the RPM's increase, while the throttle position has not moved, and the transmission selector has not moved, the transmission will think it's slipping, then increase the line pressure from the pump to make the shifts as firm as possible to eliminate any more slippage. (Fail-Safe mode)

Fishinfool- go out to your truck, start it up, and drive it for a little bit, just to get it warmed up. Go back home, and park it for about a minute with the engine running. Then hold the brake, and put the selector in first. If the engine boggs down more than normal, or you hear the pump humming, chances are the transmission is in that Fail-Safe mode.

I bought that "nuetral safety switch" at Advance for around $50 bucks when I bought my new tranny.

 

I had a similer problem with my 93 a couple yrs ago and a mechanic told me the neutral safety switch in ford 90's trucks go out alot. I replaced it and it started shifting better than it did when new.

 

Thanks, that sounds like it, it boggs down and does whine. Im gonna get one today and fluid and filter. I think that will really help. Thanks to all who helped me understand better.

 

First off, reset the computer. Take the terminals off the battery and touch them together for about 30 seconds. This will allow all the positive electrons in the capacitors in the computer to find their ground. After you reset it, connect the terminals and go or a drive. Put it in first like you did before and see if it still boggs down. If not, then drive it and it should shift ok, until it starts "slipping," which it will then start shifting harder. Good luck!

 

I cant unhook battery because I have a interlock device and it will mess it up then truck wont start. I seen something about having to adjust the NSS with a special tool? Anybody know what thats about.

 

Chilton's also says on 96 it is called a Manual Lever Position Sensor. Is this the same thing, does it do the same thing. Maybe I'm just stupid but I don't really understand how this could cause hard shifting. I really don't have much extra money to throw away on parts I dont need. Someone tell me to shut up and buy the thing.