351w sludge problem... HELP!!!
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Senior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: winnipeg
351w sludge problem... HELP!!!
I just bought a 1977 ltd with a 351w and it has a bit of sludge buildup in the vlave covers ... im assuming its all over inside... anyways, is there somthing I can run through the motor to drop most or all the sludge into the oil pan so I can drain it ??
any methods will do! ... I dont want the motor to blow like my f350 did!!
Is a 351w common for sludge or do I have bad luck ?
any methods will do! ... I dont want the motor to blow like my f350 did!!
Is a 351w common for sludge or do I have bad luck ?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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I would clean the covers and close it up. If you start loosening that chit up it will clog up the screen on the oil sump. If you plan on pulling the oil pan you could clean it up good but I would leave it..
My 2 cents
My 2 cents
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 121
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From: london, Kentucky
Dude, my 77 351W has bad sludge buildup too, just a coincidence I suppose though, because if there did happen to be a sludge problem with 351's, it would apply to all Windsor series engines I would think.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
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From: British Columbia
I don't think the engine size is related to sludge buildup. It's probably just because it's thirty years old and maybe hasn't had the best of servicing for some of those years. When I was overhauling old engines a decade or so ago they all had huge sludge buildups. Typically there'd be up to a quarter inch of greyish sludge in the oil pan. This coating was kind of like clay, if you didn't physically scrape it up it would just stay put and probably not do any harm.
While you have the valve covers off I recommend cleaning the oil drain back holes in the heads. Also insure your PCV system is working, as well as your thermostat. An engine that doesn't come up to proper operating temperature will produce more sludge.
While you have the valve covers off I recommend cleaning the oil drain back holes in the heads. Also insure your PCV system is working, as well as your thermostat. An engine that doesn't come up to proper operating temperature will produce more sludge.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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Originally Posted by RacinNdrummin
Run a Full can of seafoam in the Engine for 3000 miles, that should clean it out, with at much sludge in an engine, seafoam couldnt hurt much.
you have to think where is the sludge going once it has loosened up... right to the sump. I have seen it and personaly had to pull the oil pan off from a 302 that I screwed up trying to clean up the sludge, clugged up the sump in no time at all....no oil pressure I should have just lift it alone.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,941
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From: Maple Valley, WA
But the stuff is in the engine either way, I have run a half-can of seafoam in my GF's 200k B2 for 3000 miles and the Oil pressure is actually better, as well as the lifter noise disappearing. Seafoam breaks down the sludge, so that doesnt nessesarily mean that it will clog the sump, it just disolves it into your oil. I would however recommend changing the oil a couple hundred miles after you drain the seafoam mix out.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
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From: British Columbia
How about installing an oil pressure gauge in the car, then you can very carefully monitor oil pressure after doing whatever sludge cleanup you decide on. You'd see it drop if the pickup screen got clogged.
With super filthy oil in motors I usually drain it but leave the filter in place, then add one or two quarts of kerosene or diesel fuel to the sump and run for a little while. Then drain again and remove old oil filter. I've even done this and then drove a couple miles gently. The driving aspect might be pushing it, but I don't think simply running the engine without load for a few minutes with kerosene plus the quart or so of oil left in the filter plus what doesn't drain out will hurt it.
These "solvents" aren't really that aggressive solvents, and while they won't remove varnish or sludge, they will simply rinse out the junk loosened by scraping etc. and the residual super dirty oil and grime that is in suspension.
I'm not familiar with "seafoam" but it seems like it has good testimonials so I would agree with using it after flushing out as described above.
With super filthy oil in motors I usually drain it but leave the filter in place, then add one or two quarts of kerosene or diesel fuel to the sump and run for a little while. Then drain again and remove old oil filter. I've even done this and then drove a couple miles gently. The driving aspect might be pushing it, but I don't think simply running the engine without load for a few minutes with kerosene plus the quart or so of oil left in the filter plus what doesn't drain out will hurt it.
These "solvents" aren't really that aggressive solvents, and while they won't remove varnish or sludge, they will simply rinse out the junk loosened by scraping etc. and the residual super dirty oil and grime that is in suspension.
I'm not familiar with "seafoam" but it seems like it has good testimonials so I would agree with using it after flushing out as described above.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,656
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Beanscoot
How about installing an oil pressure gauge in the car, then you can very carefully monitor oil pressure after doing whatever sludge cleanup you decide on. You'd see it drop if the pickup screen got clogged.
With super filthy oil in motors I usually drain it but leave the filter in place, then add one or two quarts of kerosene or diesel fuel to the sump and run for a little while. Then drain again and remove old oil filter. I've even done this and then drove a couple miles gently. The driving aspect might be pushing it, but I don't think simply running the engine without load for a few minutes with kerosene plus the quart or so of oil left in the filter plus what doesn't drain out will hurt it.
These "solvents" aren't really that aggressive solvents, and while they won't remove varnish or sludge, they will simply rinse out the junk loosened by scraping etc. and the residual super dirty oil and grime that is in suspension.
I'm not familiar with "seafoam" but it seems like it has good testimonials so I would agree with using it after flushing out as described above.
With super filthy oil in motors I usually drain it but leave the filter in place, then add one or two quarts of kerosene or diesel fuel to the sump and run for a little while. Then drain again and remove old oil filter. I've even done this and then drove a couple miles gently. The driving aspect might be pushing it, but I don't think simply running the engine without load for a few minutes with kerosene plus the quart or so of oil left in the filter plus what doesn't drain out will hurt it.
These "solvents" aren't really that aggressive solvents, and while they won't remove varnish or sludge, they will simply rinse out the junk loosened by scraping etc. and the residual super dirty oil and grime that is in suspension.
I'm not familiar with "seafoam" but it seems like it has good testimonials so I would agree with using it after flushing out as described above.