I just bought the Pertronix for my 73 F100 302-2v. I read the instructions and am not to comfortable though this is supposed to be easy. I'm sure it's easy, just need a little help. My biggest concern is the wiring aspect. I don't want to fry anything! The instructions talk about the primary ballast resistor. My truck is all stock.

1. What is this? Where is it?

2. The coil (stock,original) is labeled DIST and BAT. Which is POS/NEG? The DIST wire goes to directly to the distributor and the wire labeled BAT is routed across the engine along with other wires.

Let's start with this and then I'll have more questions. Thanks..

 

The Ballast resistor on a ford truck is the pink wire coming out of the ignition switch.








I am sure pertronix requires 12 volts. (No ballast resistor)

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/...ion/index.html

http://www.pertronix.com/downloads/ignitor12vneg.pdf


The Ford system only runs on 6-8 volts

That's why the ballast resistor..to lessen the power to the coil.


Batt: means Power from run position of Ign switch represented by an + symbol

Dist: means the Ground out or TACH signal represented by an - symbol on the coil

EDIT: You will a keyed (On Position) 12 volt power supply to the coil as the Pertronix requires 12 volts





Best place for these questions is the electrical forum.

It isn't YEAR specific topic.

 

The Mustang link helps. Do I need to do exactly as depicted?

Let me make sure I understand. From what I read, my truck uses a ballast resistor. Therefore I have to connect the red Ignitor wire to the ignition side of the resistor. Where is this? How do I know I'm on the ignition side of the resistor? This does not mean connect red wire directly to BATT side of coil. Right?


No matter what, the black wire goes to the NEG or DIST side of the coil.

 

You need to connect the BATT terminal of the coil to a KEYED to RUN position a 12 volts power source and cap off the resistance or ballast wire to render it useless.

Your new ignition requires 12 volts to supply to its coil.

The Original FORD system only supplies 6-8 volts which isn't enough

 

Any recommendations to where I can easily tap into KEYED to RUN position 12 volts power source near the coil? Then after I do this, do I run the red wire directly to BATT side of coil?

 

You can tap in to the existing coil (+) wire. Either remove the resistor, or tap into the wire above the resistor (between the resistor and the ignition switch)

 

68 murc

Basically tap into the wire above the resistor and reinstall the wire to the coil thus all I'm doing is bypassing the resistor. As you can tell, I'm weak on this subject.

 

You need to follow the "PERTRONIX DIRECTIONS". I have one in my truck, and it runs through the ballast resistor and works great. The directions state that if your vehilce came equipped with a ballast resistor, it must be retained. The directions show 2 different wiring diagrams, one for a ballast resistor, and one without. Remember, the Pertronix is just a magnetic trigger that replaces the points, so the voltage to your coil should not change. The only way you could bypass the resistor is if you change the coil from the stock 1.5 ohm, to a 3 ohm coil. If you want a hotter spark so you can open the plug gaps, use the Pertronix Flame Thrower coil (1.5 ohms) in conjuntion with the Ignitor. Then you can use late model fuel injection type spark plugs, and gap them to .045 - .050 and see a performance increase. Per the directions, you will have to Y-splice/tap into the wire going from the ballast resistor, to the coil, to hook up one of the Pertronix wires. Read the directions carefully. The ballast resistor on my truck is located in the firewall, just on the left side of the master cylinder if you are facing the firewall. it should be a rectangular piece made of ceramic, about 2 1/2" long, with 2 wires coming out of it. In my opinion, its a great upgrade especially with the Flame Thrower. Good luck.

 

Thanks. OK I think I understand now, back me up here to make sure I'm going to do this correctly.

I located the ballast on the firewall and traced the wire all the way to the BAT/+ side of the coil. All I need to do is splice/Y connect the Pertronix red wire into the existing coil wire, after the ballast. I will probably splice about 6" back off the existing coil wire. Then reconnect this wire to the coil as it was originally. The black wire goes to the DIST/- side. All done, then it should start and run.

Do I need any special type of connector for the splice/Y or just any ordinary Y connector?

This is just the basic Ignitor I system, not the Ignitor II.

 

After further review and understanding of what's happening, I ask this in reference to my previous post. The directions state" For installations that use a primary ballast resistor (which mine does), connect the Ignitor red wire to the ignition switch side of the resistor. See Fig 3."

Based on this wouldn't I want to connect the Ignitor red wire to the pink wire from the ignition before the ballast? If the Ignitor requires 12v then I would get this before the ballast. The ballast reduces 12v to 6-8v for the coil. With this set-up the Ignitor would get the 12v it needs and the coil would get the 6-8v it needs.

I know someone will eventually set me straight. Thanks for all your patience.

 

I posted this link to the directions in post #2.

http://www.pertronix.com/downloads/ignitor12vneg.pdf

 

Dennis,

I have the directions, just don't understand them! I read all the replys, still not 100% clear. From my last 2 posts above I'm trying to figure it out. Please advise. Thanks

 

Which coil are you using ?

The OEM Ford coil or a different one ?

What model distributor did you buy # .......?

Ignition side of ballast resistor is the terminal before any power passes through the resistor.

Coil side is the terminal once the power HAS PASSED THROUGH the resistor.

One end has 12v ( Key side)

One end has 6-8 Volts (Coil side)

 

OEM Ford

If I'm using the OEM coil then I need the ballast to provide proper voltage. Therfore since the Ignitor requires 12 volts then wouldn't I need to tap the pink wire prior to the ballast? Thanks

 

YES to all the above. I couldn't remember which side of the resistor the Ignitor is supposed to be tapped to, that's why I kept referring to the directions. After reviewing the directions, everything you state above is correct. I soldered my 3 way splice, and used heat shrink over it (better connection), but a squeeze connector will also work.