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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

By-pass valve

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Old May 19, 2007 | 02:02 PM
  #1  
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From: Albuquerque
By-pass valve

To by-pass, or not to by-pass, that is the question? I am about to purchase the Tru-cool Max and I have been told differing stories on whether or not to put the by-pass valve in. Some subscribe to the theory that unless you live in MN, or Canada where the winters are extreme, you dont need the by-pass valve. I live in the Desert, with lows in the teens in the Winter. I am thinking I dont need the by pass valve. Any thoughts from my esteemed colleagues ?
 
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Old May 19, 2007 | 03:39 PM
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From: MICHIGAN
I like the by-pass valve (Thermostat). It allows the trans to get up to operating temperature quicker. Mine gets up to 175-180 within 3-5 miles and just stays there even pulling heavy loads. The newer version of our e4od's (4r100) has a thermal bypass from the factory. I guess if you don't like it you can remove it afterwards sans the $$.

This is the one I have:
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=3

BTW: If you decide to use it, permanently mark the port descriptions before you start. They are painted (or something) and wash off as soon as ATF gets on it. That will happen during installation. If installed wrong your trans will overheat in short order. Do'n ask me how I know.
 
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Old May 19, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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lol, I am sure it was through very specific, detailed research that you aqquired that bit of knowledge. I am fairly sure I am going to go with the by-pass valve. Thanks for the input Cuda. I am just concerned that it is another piece of hardware that can fail in-line, potentially causing much bigger problems.
 
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Old May 19, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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By the way, I found that same cooler for 120.00 with the valve for anyone else that is looking at adding this.


http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=205
 
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Old May 19, 2007 | 03:56 PM
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Cuda, how much effort was it to remove the center piece of the front grille? It doesnt look too bad just glancing at it.
 
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Old May 19, 2007 | 06:14 PM
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Very easy, A couple (3-5) screws on the top, 2 push style retainers. The bottom has a couple clips that need to pryed so it releases.

BTW: When you see how the thermal break is made it can only fail in the open position (spring loaded. That's if it's installed correctly though , very specific, detailed research, yah! that's it. LOL
 
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