Ball joints.
#1
Ball joints.
Had a long time customer come in and asked me if I wanted to work on his E-450 PSD box truck.
I looked it over and said yes.
First job I did for this truck was a set of ball joints and shocks. His were shot.
I didn't know it was that easy to work on the front end of these beasts.
And if it's that easy, I can understand why people hate to work on VW's!!! LOL.
I booked out the whole day for this one job and I was done by lunchtime.
I looked it over and said yes.
First job I did for this truck was a set of ball joints and shocks. His were shot.
I didn't know it was that easy to work on the front end of these beasts.
And if it's that easy, I can understand why people hate to work on VW's!!! LOL.
I booked out the whole day for this one job and I was done by lunchtime.
#2
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Had a long time customer come in and asked me if I wanted to work on his E-450 PSD box truck.
I looked it over and said yes.
First job I did for this truck was a set of ball joints and shocks. His were shot.
I didn't know it was that easy to work on the front end of these beasts.
And if it's that easy, I can understand why people hate to work on VW's!!! LOL.
I booked out the whole day for this one job and I was done by lunchtime.
I looked it over and said yes.
First job I did for this truck was a set of ball joints and shocks. His were shot.
I didn't know it was that easy to work on the front end of these beasts.
And if it's that easy, I can understand why people hate to work on VW's!!! LOL.
I booked out the whole day for this one job and I was done by lunchtime.
#5
Did it without a lift. You need a ball joint press to get the job done.
Guzzle the mental wheels are turning, and I'm praying about it this weekend.
For too long I've struggled with the frustration of watching the cars that I work on go from very easy to work on to nearly impossible to get my hand into the engine compartment. I'm getting too old to want to have to deal with that sort of hassle.
Guzzle the mental wheels are turning, and I'm praying about it this weekend.
For too long I've struggled with the frustration of watching the cars that I work on go from very easy to work on to nearly impossible to get my hand into the engine compartment. I'm getting too old to want to have to deal with that sort of hassle.
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#9
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Yeah, I did look and it's pretty tight in there. The fuel filter would be a PITA.
And absolutly no room for a 6637 air filter!
And absolutly no room for a 6637 air filter!
#10
Originally Posted by ron's power stoke
did you use the red press you cut up? or was it a special press?? johnny8 and i will be doing his soon..thanks kwikk
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2119&page=1潚
Last edited by Kwikkordead; 05-18-2007 at 11:21 PM.
#12
Originally Posted by NS F250
Yep, thats why I started a thread a couple of weeks ago about getting rid of the fuel bowl. 30k a year I'm in there every six months. Btw she's due for a filter and that stupid cable operated drain is stuck. It's always something.
It's pretty tight beyond the fuel pump, but you could extend the hose on the outlet side and loop it back around behind the pump and then return it to the fuel rail. There's about 18" worth of flex line between the pump and the hard line going up to the engine.
#13
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Well why not mount a remote screw on flange type filter just past the fuel pump outlet? You could drop both the oil filter and the fuel filter into the same bucket when doing your maintainance.
It's pretty tight beyond the fuel pump, but you could extend the hose on the outlet side and loop it back around behind the pump and then return it to the fuel rail. There's about 18" worth of flex line between the pump and the hard line going up to the engine.
It's pretty tight beyond the fuel pump, but you could extend the hose on the outlet side and loop it back around behind the pump and then return it to the fuel rail. There's about 18" worth of flex line between the pump and the hard line going up to the engine.
Kwik, just curious what you charged to do the ball joints. I just had this done and I would be interested to compare what I paid. There back on topic.
#14
Mark and I double teamed on the truck.
He did one side and I did the other.
What I did was all four Napa ball joints with Zerk fittings.
All four shocks, Bilstien
Oil change with a Napa Gold oil filter and 4 gallon containers of Mobil 1 Delvac 5-40.
There was some extra time that I had to charge for on the shock job as the company that installed the work box set the box frame right down on top of the shock tower and we had to cut them out of there and figure out how to make the new ones work. Basically shorten the tower on the new ones.
Remove an aftermarket tachometer per the owners request.
Local dealership here quoted him $1800.00 for the ball joints alone.
He was out my door with the above work for $1725.00 including 8.9% sales tax.
He did one side and I did the other.
What I did was all four Napa ball joints with Zerk fittings.
All four shocks, Bilstien
Oil change with a Napa Gold oil filter and 4 gallon containers of Mobil 1 Delvac 5-40.
There was some extra time that I had to charge for on the shock job as the company that installed the work box set the box frame right down on top of the shock tower and we had to cut them out of there and figure out how to make the new ones work. Basically shorten the tower on the new ones.
Remove an aftermarket tachometer per the owners request.
Local dealership here quoted him $1800.00 for the ball joints alone.
He was out my door with the above work for $1725.00 including 8.9% sales tax.
#15