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Clint, doing a 3-angle valve job doesn't really add much time or hassle to the valve job, and many shops do it as a standard valve job these days. I was reading that some shops don't even charge all that much more for a 5 or 7-angle valve job, like maybe 30 bucks extra. It doesn't make a huge difference, but every little bit helps. And no, it's not done at the expense of adequate seat width so no worries about burning valves.
BTW, for those of you who want to be like me and use the degree symbol ( º ) in your posts, just hold down the ALT key and type 167 and it will magically appear...
Last edited by TigerDan; May 19, 2007 at 06:44 PM.
Yea, thanks for telling us that. The last time you did, I put it on a sticky note (paper) and pasted it to the front of my monitors. Of course, when I needed to use it, the note had disappeared. . . . . . I think I will just type "degree" and ask the moderator to correct it for me.
Awhile back, some friends of mine and I started a new vocabulary for cash. This was all about sailboats. Like trucks, everything you did cost cash. We started calling a C note a "boat buck". We all new what a boat buck was. Mebbe we should define something called a "Truck Buck"?
Last edited by AnOldDog; May 19, 2007 at 10:31 PM.
A truck buck - I like that! A couple of more truck bucks and we will be on easy street!
One thing to remember, the projects you see on TV, the bodymen are all bondo slingers and the mechanics are parts replaces. They buy kits and act like they built the Hope Diamond.
We wanted something different - a project to learn from, and a toy to play with that we all can enjoy. We could buy a 500 horse crate engine (and maybe even save money when all is said and done!) but better to plan the engine together, and build it with everyone getting all the wrench time they want.
Long story short, if we want a front tilt hood we are not going to spend ten truck bucks to get it, instead will buy a little steel and spend a week building it!
A truck buck - I like that! A couple of more truck bucks and we will be on easy street!
One thing to remember, the projects you see on TV, the bodymen are all bondo slingers and the mechanics are parts replaces. They buy kits and act like they built the Hope Diamond.
We wanted something different - a project to learn from, and a toy to play with that we all can enjoy. We could buy a 500 horse crate engine (and maybe even save money when all is said and done!) but better to plan the engine together, and build it with everyone getting all the wrench time they want.
Long story short, if we want a front tilt hood we are not going to spend ten truck bucks to get it, instead will buy a little steel and spend a week building it!
OK, off my soap box now!
We've spent the better part of our lives doing things like that around here....building, changing, modifying stuff, spending weeks doing it, to save a few bucks...all said and done we figure our labor has worked out to about 30 cents an hour in the long run
But I wouldn't go back and change things at all, it's all those projects donr in the past that do prepare you for the occaisional time when youhave to do something yourself and you don't have the funds available to farm it out.
BTW, the tilt frontend might be a good idea and something to think about before we start bolting on the front sheetmetal.
There's a guy up the street from the shop where I have the truck at who's working on doing a tilt frontend on a bumpside F350 powered by a Detroit diesel. It ain't pretty, but it does look like it'll be functional. He's cut the fenders behind and near the top of the wheel well so the bottom portion of the back of the fender will remain stationary while the rest of the frontend tilts away from it...I suppose he'd let me grab a few pics if I asked him.
What neither you or Dan has said is how much of an improvement this is. While the size of the valves are unknown at this time, they most likely are 2.07 inches intake with a 1.64 exhaust. We are going with a high lift cam, opening them wider and increasing the duration. Given this, is the extra angles on the valve seat a big deal?
It sure looks to me that it is a whole lot of work and expense for a very small gain. Also, does the valve seat area remain the same, or is it smaller and therefore quicker to burn?
And yes, Dan, screw in rocker studs are a feature of these engines.
Expect a 5-10HP at highest RPMs, one of those "every little bit" things, thing is, if my cutters will do hardened seats (and I think they will), we'll be doing a standard valve job...the goal for the heads (hoping the guides are good) is to get by with only having the heads resurfaced/trued if needed, as long as there's a servicable seat left on the valves, we'll grind them, hope is not to have to replace any.
If we were to start looking at having the heads opened up for larger valves/etc, then the cost quickly piles up.
Just FYI on some cost...I had an Lh 6 head resurfaced 2 years ago, ran 30 or 40 bucks.
I had a set of SBC heads resurfaced, new exhaust seat put in and cut (no guides) last year, I think it was 150.00 for the set.
I might have a knurling tool for the guides, but I don't think I'd have the right reamer to finish them off, if the guides need work....for our engine knurling the guides would be fine and probably last 8-10K miles...which would be a lot of years of driving for how we intend to run it.
There's a guy up the street from the shop where I have the truck at who's working on doing a tilt frontend on a bumpside F350 powered by a Detroit diesel. It ain't pretty, but it does look like it'll be functional. He's cut the fenders behind and near the top of the wheel well so the bottom portion of the back of the fender will remain stationary while the rest of the frontend tilts away from it...I suppose he'd let me grab a few pics if I asked him.
I'd get some pics, just to get an idea....it'd make roadside/pit side work if needed, easier to do.
I wonder if we could flip the hood, but leave the fender wells bolted in, and remove quickly if need be?
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