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I own a 88 F-150 with a 5.0L engine with only 5,000 miles on it and a AOD transmission I recently install a 4:10 gear to help pull my RV. The toy hauler weighs 3950 and with my bike and junk in the trailer it weighs 4950. The only error I am geeting on the OBD-1 reader is a Thermactor system failure. I have replaced the relays,EGR valve, the air pump works so does the bypass valve. I need help wondering why I have no power at highway speeds and it pings also. I have changed the timing to 8 degrees and that helped a little on the knocking but still no power. I am wondering about the cats or adding a cold air induction system and pulleys but not until I find what is causing the power problem.
There is a steel tube connecting the heads at the back, and there should be another diverter valve back there as well. The tubing is known to rust out and cause this type problem. This system has nothing to do with the EGR by the way. There are 2 solenoids near the coils that control the diverter valves, a problem with these or a broken/melted vacuum line could also be contributing factors.
you may also have a clogged cat converter. if you havent already a good set of shorty headers, and bassani y pipe with hi flow cats is a great upgrade and would help towing.
your not trying to tow in OD at all with that AOD right?
I replaced the two diverter valves well there are three by the coil but replaced the ones for the diverter valves and that is when I heard a noise coming from the engine I never heard before especially when the engine is first started and goes away in a minute or two. When the motor was rebuilt i checked the tube that connects the two heads together then goes down the catalytic converter would a clogged tube to the cat be a problem or maybe the cat all together.
Why would this cause my lack of power problem? dazed and confused...
With the 4:10 gear now yes it stays in OD I have heard from various sources that as long as the transmission is not shifting down to leave in OD. With the 3:55 gear I left it in D.
perhaps, but a stock AOD as a small OD band and will easily burn up. if you can install and aftermarket cooler and completly bypass the radiator cooler for the tranny. and see about installing the 3" kevlar od band. they are cheap and will last and work far better.
you should be running 10*btdc of timing with spout connector removed. this is stock setting. if your at 8 you are definatly gonna lose power there as well. What kind of plugs,wires are you running and are they routed well with none touching each other or crossing each other?
if you bang the cat with a rubber hammer and it rattles its more then likely bad
Yes definately a large aftermarket transmission cooler has been installed even before i bought the trailer knowing that it would get hot. I checked my timing the other night and it is at 10* btdc with the spout connector remover or what I call the spud connector.
I am using the stock wires and they are routed correctly not crossing over each other. Well they are touching each other by the plugs like cylinder #1 and #6.
The plugs are motorcraft plugs. The motor only has 5,000 miles on it on the old motor the timing chain went on me going down the freeway well you can guess what happened.
I replaced the two diverter valves well there are three by the coil but replaced the ones for the diverter valves and that is when I heard a noise coming from the engine I never heard before especially when the engine is first started and goes away in a minute or two.
The air injection(thermactor) system pumps air into the exhaust system on cold starts to help light off the cats and burn off the excess fuel. Once the engine reaches operating temperature the system should dump the air to atmosphere. I'm not 100% sure, but the solenoids may be different and if you mix them up then the system will not operate correctly. There should be a small black canister(3-4" diameter) on the pass side inner fender that will have air coming out of it when the system is in bypass mode(engine warm).
I will check that out this afternoon I know the coffee can canister you are talking about. I bought the new relays and that is when the new noises started.
I will check that out this afternoon I know the coffee can canister you are talking about. .
This muffler(that's all it is really), will be next to the coffee canister and considerably smaller. It should be connected to the diverter valve right behind the air pump with a 1" hose.
make sure the plug wires are not touch. this will cause a cross fire and create power loss and pinging. also running normal copper autolite or motor craft plugs is recommended.
IAC could be dirty, it's on the side of the throttle body. Remove it, disconnect the actuator and clean the plunger with carb cleaner until it moves freely.