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Not enough onfo.
Are you doing a restore or just fixing up a car?
Is this a rolling project or a teardown?
The last total restore I did (a '60 Triumph TR-3), I tore it down to the frame. Be sure to take pictures and notes, package/label every part and store well marked.
The last fix-up I did (a '99 Ranger), I started with the suspension, replaced all springs,shocks (lowered 3 inches) to give me a good rolling project.
Body is always last.
electrical by far if you already have everything planned out. electrical gremlins will drive someone crazy, nothing is worst than trying to figure out why the alternator decides to charge on weekdays and not on weekends.
mechanical is fine as long as it will get you to where you need to go, but if not, hit that before the body i would say.
but i am not a body guy, as long as the style of car is nice, it will always look nice to me.
Im actually in the process of trying to figure out how to go about my project also. So far ive done the brakes, im not sure where to go from there. I assume your more experienced than i am at this so ill leave my 2cents out. However, one thing that is makes everything better is beer and music. I recommend yuengling and ccr.
Oh yeah, i would leave the body for last. I dunno if you plan on painting it and everything, but if you do you might get it dirty while youre working on the mechanical.
Hey Dutch, let me know when you get good at paintwork, I'll send my Galaxie over to ya-
My list is usually mechanical, safety, then appearance. Make it stop, go, and turn when it's told without weird noises, then worry about makin it pretty. Right now, my 69 and the Galaxie have new engines in them, the truck got new brakes all the way around last year, the car got new brakes in the front last month, along with new shocks and springs.
I will agree with the electrical gremlin thing, I'm fighting an interesting one on the car. If I use the brakes more than a few times, I loose the running lights, brake lights, and dash lights. If I use the highbeams, I loose the headlights after about ten minutes. If I run the fan for too long, the relay starts buzzing and shuts it off. Fortunately, my wiring approach is one of rip out and upgrade, rather than repair what's already there.
since I'm currently doing a 74 triumph spitfire for me it's the frame first. They have a tendancy of rotting out in the rear which this one did. So off came the body and out came the drivetrain
Its always been mechanical with me,I suck at body work and most of the time I can't afford to pay the high price for a good body man.When I started to look for a bronco all I really cared about was the body as I have no problems building the drivetrain or doing electrical work but if it needed rust repair I know I would never get it done.
I would start a ground-up restoration at the ...ground! Which is to say- take the entire car apart, then restore the chassis and drive train first. Of course, while you're taking the thing apart, you need to assess and decide whether the body is worth all the other work. Usually a chassis is still usable long after the body is gone, Of course, I'm much better at chassis work- I've never been able to restore a rusty body and NOT have it rust again- quickly! Once the chassis and body are restored, it's time to do upholstery and wiring. Now, if I just want to drive the thing, I simply make any necessary repairs and upgrades to the mechanical systems, and call it good. My projects usually go like this:
1) Disassemble and assess the entire truck.
2) Store all over my garage for 10-15 years. (you can't rush these things)
3) Sell the wreck to some other sucker.
4) Start next project.
That's a tough call really. I'm a body guy by trade so on my own vehicles the body is generally the last thing to get done. I see the theory in doing the body first, but when you're talking about bodyrot being an issue, it kind of falls in the mechanical category in a way. I'd still rather know it runs good first then tackle the cosmetics. I don't mind driving an ugly car that runs like a bat outta hell.
I will agree with the electrical gremlin thing, I'm fighting an interesting one on the car. If I use the brakes more than a few times, I loose the running lights, brake lights, and dash lights. If I use the highbeams, I loose the headlights after about ten minutes. If I run the fan for too long, the relay starts buzzing and shuts it off. Fortunately, my wiring approach is one of rip out and upgrade, rather than repair what's already there.
What YOU have, is a corroded main electrical junction connector going from the interior out through the firewall. I'd bet my last can of beer on it!
Either that, or you have rust everywhere in your electrical system making body shorts (grounds).
The next question is - what made it crud up?
You will replace it, there ain't no doubt.
It would help if the roof, windows, and weatherstrip were not leaking. THIS is where ensuring a sound body becomes a "WHY DIDN'T I DO THAT?" thing.
It's almost 40 years old, the previous owner (my boss) was a complete moron, and somebody did a poor job installing a 7pin trailer connector and brake controller, so take your pick. I thought the main coming in, since the aftermarket ammeter doesn't work, but things go out in odd groups, like a certain set of lights, a different set of lights, the electric fan, etc.
But I digress, this is your thread and I'm hijacking again.
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