Check Engine Light
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>I had someone read the codes with a handheld computer and it indicated something was wrong with the oxygen sensor, so I replaced it. The light stayed off for 3-4 weeks and I thought the problem was solved. However, it slowly began happening again until it was happening frequently again during warm weather. I finally had someone else read the codes at a parts store. He said it indicated something was wrong with the throttle body, so I took it off, cleaned it, replaced the gasket, and put it back on. The light stayed off for 3-4 weeks again, and again I thought the problem was fixed. But once again, it slowly started happening again – very seldom in cold weather (<40 deg F), but more and more often in warm weather.
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>I then had a mechanic read the codes with a Snapon code reader and it indicated something with engine temperature. I was also getting no heat out of my heater, so he recommended that I replace the thermostat. I had done this recently, but I did it again. This had no effect. The light continued to come on and off. I finally realized the heater problem was due to a clogged heater core, so I replaced it. During this replacement, I did nothing else – I didn’t unhook the battery, wiggle spark plug wires, etc. I then had heat AND my light stayed off for 3-4 weeks. But then it slowly started coming on again.
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>This truck has been well maintained. The plugs, wires and cap were replaced at 66,000 mi. The problem has persisted over a period of 4 years and the symptoms have always been the same: The truck hesitates slightly under low load and the light comes on a few seconds later. Accelerate and the light will go off after a few seconds. It also occurs much more frequently in hot weather than in cold weather.
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>I read the current codes from the dashboard and they are: KEOE = 522 (Vehicle not in park or neutral during KEOE) and Continuous = 179 (Right side still rich, at leanest adaptive limit, during part throttle). I don’t know why 522 shows up – I had the truck in neutral. However, the 179 seems to make sense. What would this indicate is wrong? I would greatly appreciate any advice.
I always got a neutral safety switch error when testing my 89, I think I finally read somewhere that if the initial testing was not complete you also get that error.
The gas cap problem is usually associated with OBD2 computers and GM OBD1. Part of the on board diagnostics emissions setup requires a vacume in the fuel tank. I don't belive EEC-IV need it.


