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Old May 17, 2007 | 02:47 PM
  #1  
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Talking Transmissions idiot

This is going to sound really bad, but here goes. This is gonna be long.
I have had my truck(96 F-350 CC) for almost three years now. the truck has had some trans slip since I bought it. I think. I really dont know now. How long will a trans last after it starts slipping? My truck really only slips shifting form first to second. I drive around town with OD off, but it seems to still happen. The truck while accelerating will shift in to second then it will feel like it shifts again in only about thrity feet, btu ti not in to third. Its like it really didn't shift right the first time so it does it again. I dont understand it. I have taken care of it really well, and I run synthetic. So my question is, is it really slipping or is something broke? Should I expect to replace it some time soon, remember I dont know whats going on, I just know that its been doing this for some two or three years now. I would think that if it was weak and slipping that it would have died by now. I dont know what to make of it. Thanks for the help
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 03:24 PM
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It sounds to me that you are hearing the torque converter locking up. It probably isn't slipping you are hearing it shift then the converter will lock. these transmissions don't shift very solid they just kind of slide into the next gear. Mine did the same thing when I bought it three years ago. I put a Sonnax kit in it about a month after buying it and that really helped the shifting. It shifts solid now. I also have some programming for the trans done with my DP Tuner chip which also helps it when towing. I have been towing a 9000# toyhauler travel trailer for the past three years with no problems. I just moved up to a 30' fifthwheel still no problems. The first thing I would do is put some kind of shift kit in it.
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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I agree sounds like its your TC locking up and is normal. The lock generally happens between 2 and 3 and happens soon after the 2 nd gear shift.
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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i think you are getting tc lockup with your"second shift" ,mine does the exact same thing,this is the second transmission i have had in my truck ,the first one did it too,they both had shift kits installed (make/brand unknown)
i am looking at having a aftermarket valve body installed
my dp chip did not seem to help much in the shifting department but it made the truck run much stronger
another option i am considering is controlling tc lockup w/ a switch on the dash,i already have a grounding switch for use with the ebpv exhaust brake mod just need to change it out to a 3 position switch so i can have a nonlockup position by creating a open in the wire that controls lockup
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 05:23 PM
  #5  
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We offer a BD Accumulator Body upgrade as well as a product called the BD Torque UnLoc kit. Basically what the Torque Unloc does is what you describing. It is a three way toggle switch with a Lock up position, an unlock position and a stock operation position. They are probably more expensive than wiring up your own toggle but they will automatically release the T/C on deceleration under 20MPH so you don't have to turn it off every time you come to a stop.
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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Not trying to hijack. Dave I have a question on how best to hookup a back pressure gauge. See "Gauge question" page 3. Sorry guys I didn't know how to contact and just saw him here. Or you can PM me.

Carry on.
 
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Old May 17, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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Click on the username and select the contact method of your choice from the drop down menu.
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 06:52 AM
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Talking Huh????

That all makes sense what you guys explained, but I forgot to mention that I have installed a kit that replaced the springs. It did help but it still seems pretty bad. I hate having people in the truck and wonder if its going to fall apart because of how it shifts. Is my only other option a new valve body or what? I really dont know a whole lot about these. Even when I put those springs in the valve body I was pretty worried. I would like to fix the problem and protect my trans from breaking any sooner then it has to. Thanks for the suggestions. Oh I think I got my kit from Performance Parts.
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 09:51 AM
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to affect tc lock-up you will need different programming. A chip will be the best way to change it. The springs you put in affect the shifts themselves but not the timing. If you get a tony wildman or DP tuner ship and tell them what your issue is and what you want the truck to do they will burn a chip accordingly and you will be back in business!
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Talking Okay

Well I'm still saving up for the chip, so that will have to wait. I hope the trans will be okay, being active duty sure doesn't pay much. One last question, so this mod about the switch wouldn't be a good idea in my case or not? I'm not sure I understood the concept.
 
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Old May 18, 2007 | 10:12 PM
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find the purple w/yellow wire under the brake booster ,cut it and wire in a toggle switch
with the switch on it will work same as it does now,with switch off it will keep the converter from locking up,you can run thru all the gears and lock up the converter after you are in third or overdrive and shouldnt get that weird second gear shift lockup thing anymore
the downside is you have to fool with a toggle switch,but for less then five bucks it is a cheap easy fix to your problem
i am going to give it a try soon
if you do let me know how it works out
marcus
 
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Old May 20, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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I would be willing to bet that if you just cut that wire and wire in a toggle then you could have a flashing O/D and maybe the tranny might go into limp in mode. Don't know for sure but give it a try. Just be read to put it back together if those things happen.
 
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Old May 20, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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how much would you be willing to bet?
marcus
 
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Old May 20, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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i did it on my truck and so far so good totally fixed the second gear ,lockup,overlap problem,shifts thru the gears nicely then flip switch and you get lockup
marcus
 
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Old May 20, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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i also cut the wire down along the frame rail instead of under the booster,its a little farther to run the wiring to the toggle but it was so much easier for me to get to and ID the wire and splice
 
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