Overheating Problem
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Overheating Problem
I've got a '94 Aerostar with a 3.0 V6 and auto, got the unit with a blown head gasket. Replaced both head gaskets and had the heads resurfaced. While taking it apart, I found that it did not have a thermostat installed. Anyway, got her put back together, installed a factory rated thermostat, engine runs fine, no check engine light. The problem I'm having is that the coolant temperature slowly creeps up towards hot. It takes about 15-20 miles of rural driving to get it all the way over to the hot side of the gauge. I have verified the coolant level is fine, have a 16 lb radiator cap on the radiator. I could sure use a 2nd opinion. Thank you!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
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From: Central Oregon
Did you replace the water pump? Or the radiator? Does the engine have a clutch fan? A water pump can wear the vanes in teh pump down over time, the water will flow but not good enough to keep her cool. My 90 Aero has a 4.0 engine with a clutch fan, clutch went out and would not draw enough air in a lower speeds.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
also test the coolant temp with cooking thermometer with radiator cap off at idle
should be below 195d F
note reading on Aero idiot temp gauge for future reference
Idaho has lots of minerals in water that plug radiators...pull radiator out and run long plumbers brush down thru inlet and outlet to clean off crossflow tube openings where the minerals build up
back flush the block with hose thru thermostat hole
use ONLY distilled water
if you have to replace plugged radiator, use the 4L dual core, almost twice the cooling capacity of 3L single core....those Idaho mole hills do cause rigs to overheat
should be below 195d F
note reading on Aero idiot temp gauge for future reference
Idaho has lots of minerals in water that plug radiators...pull radiator out and run long plumbers brush down thru inlet and outlet to clean off crossflow tube openings where the minerals build up
back flush the block with hose thru thermostat hole
use ONLY distilled water
if you have to replace plugged radiator, use the 4L dual core, almost twice the cooling capacity of 3L single core....those Idaho mole hills do cause rigs to overheat
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Other possible culprits include a plugged radiator, a collapsed hose, and in improperly bled cooling system. I've found the easiest way to get all the air out and to ensure that the entire cooling system is actually full is to have the front end of the vehicle either lifted on jackstands, or parked on a hill. This helps burp all the air out. The fan clutch would be my second suspicion. If there is not enough airflow through the radiator, it will not cool the engine very well.
An easy check for the water pump is to look up at it from beneath the vehicle. There is a weep hole on the bottom. If there is any signs of weakage or seepage through the hole, you need a new pump. The other way to test the pump is to squeeze the upper radiator hose and feel for the power surge as you release it.
On a final note: Never ever ever use tap water in your cooling system except in an emergency. Use distilled or RO water instead, or buy premixed coolant.
An easy check for the water pump is to look up at it from beneath the vehicle. There is a weep hole on the bottom. If there is any signs of weakage or seepage through the hole, you need a new pump. The other way to test the pump is to squeeze the upper radiator hose and feel for the power surge as you release it.
On a final note: Never ever ever use tap water in your cooling system except in an emergency. Use distilled or RO water instead, or buy premixed coolant.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada
Bad circulation !
Originally Posted by eagleshavelanded
I've got a '94 Aerostar with a 3.0 V6 and auto, got the unit with a blown head gasket. Replaced both head gaskets and had the heads resurfaced. While taking it apart, I found that it did not have a thermostat installed. Anyway, got her put back together, installed a factory rated thermostat, engine runs fine, no check engine light. The problem I'm having is that the coolant temperature slowly creeps up towards hot. It takes about 15-20 miles of rural driving to get it all the way over to the hot side of the gauge. I have verified the coolant level is fine, have a 16 lb radiator cap on the radiator. I could sure use a 2nd opinion. Thank you!
Try again if that's not working you might have to replace the water pump, because even if the flow is good in the water system, a bad pump will cause insufficient circulation through the radiator & will cause this slow overheating condition that you speak of.
Good luck, Aeroman.
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Hey thanks guys for all your answers. I'll work on each one of those as time and money permits, and I'll definitely let you all know. Thanks again!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
Just curious, can you tell if you're losing coolant, like maybe the heads are still leaking?
You resurfaced the heads, but I've seen severe overheating that actually warped the thin-cast blocks that are so common these days.
You resurfaced the heads, but I've seen severe overheating that actually warped the thin-cast blocks that are so common these days.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
any boil over or burping out the overflow line into the OF tank?
or tiny champayne like bubbles in hot coolant while idling?
only remove rad. cap when cold
Aero rad. caps are higher and always get the face with burning hot coolant
best way to cool off a smoking hot rig is run cold water over radiator at idle
do NOT spray engine or exhaust
195d F thermostat only
any lower temp therm. throws off the PCM programming which sets the air/fuel mix and timing based on 195d coolant
also slows the fire off of the O2 sensor causing more fuel useage
or tiny champayne like bubbles in hot coolant while idling?
only remove rad. cap when cold
Aero rad. caps are higher and always get the face with burning hot coolant
best way to cool off a smoking hot rig is run cold water over radiator at idle
do NOT spray engine or exhaust
195d F thermostat only
any lower temp therm. throws off the PCM programming which sets the air/fuel mix and timing based on 195d coolant
also slows the fire off of the O2 sensor causing more fuel useage
Last edited by 96_4wdr; May 17, 2007 at 07:42 PM.
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Fortunately I'm not losing coolant, no bubbles appear in the coolant when the cap is removed. I did have to replace the water pump, as it is leaking a bit out of the weep hole. I think I might have found the main reason for the problem. I had the timing set way too far ahead, was running about 40-45 degrees BDC, sticker on the van calls for 10. Had to buy me a timing light, but at least that problem is solved. I'm in the process of putting a new pump in it today, along with new plugs, wires, and oxygen sensor. We'll see what happens.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,010
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From: SoCal
Good to know for sure that your head gaskets aren't leaking.
With that much timing, your engine would have been detonating under any kind of load. And there may have been hard starting, off idle hesitation, and possibly backfiring through the intake. However, just short of these problems, the more advanced the timing, the more efficient the engine will run, and actually make less waste heat. Sometimes I want to try to play with the timing on my 4 liter with the EDIS, by relocating the crank position sensor slightly toward the advanced side to see what happens.
With that much timing, your engine would have been detonating under any kind of load. And there may have been hard starting, off idle hesitation, and possibly backfiring through the intake. However, just short of these problems, the more advanced the timing, the more efficient the engine will run, and actually make less waste heat. Sometimes I want to try to play with the timing on my 4 liter with the EDIS, by relocating the crank position sensor slightly toward the advanced side to see what happens.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
lucky you didn't fry your exhaust valves, crack a head or piston
that much over advance would cause major overheating
did you pull the Spout Check connector before adjusting base -10d BTDC timing?
if not, may not be correct, PCM can be adding some dynamic advance
Spout Check plug pink wires in and out
LH rear of engine compartment, taped to engine control sensor harness, near master cylinder
when you are done setting base...check for rock solid steady base timing by revving engine..... replace Spout Plug...check for timing advance to approx 28d BTDC at 2500 rpm and rock steady with steady rpm
that much over advance would cause major overheating
did you pull the Spout Check connector before adjusting base -10d BTDC timing?
if not, may not be correct, PCM can be adding some dynamic advance
Spout Check plug pink wires in and out
LH rear of engine compartment, taped to engine control sensor harness, near master cylinder
when you are done setting base...check for rock solid steady base timing by revving engine..... replace Spout Plug...check for timing advance to approx 28d BTDC at 2500 rpm and rock steady with steady rpm
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 830
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From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada
That much advance surely would create some problems. I'm surprised it started up without severe spitting back into the intakes ! Normal idle timing on mine is around 24*, with warmed up engine.
Aeroman.
Aeroman.
Last edited by Aeroman59; May 22, 2007 at 11:48 PM. Reason: update