Upper and Lower Ball Joints
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New User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 15
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From: Staten Island, New York
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Can someone please tell me what a fair price would be to replace both upper and lower ball joints. I was given a price of $475. I was wondering if this was reasonable.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
Likes: 2
From: Northern Maine
I replaced all four ball joints on my 98 2-wheel drive. I cant remember which were more expensive, the uppers or lowers. One was $37.00 each and the others were $75.00 each. The entire job took two of us two hours. A special C-clamp style ball joint press was needed, along with an acetylene torch as one was stubborn. The only front end alignment that the truck has is tow-in so if you do not alter the tie rod end adjustment (and there should be no reason to) a front end alignment is not necessary.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 15
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From: Staten Island, New York
Not a dealer quote. Qoute from local mechanic whom I have dealt with before. Have never had any problems with his work. It's just that $475 seemed high.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 771
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From: Aurora
If Dan is even close with those prices, that's 225 or so for parts, so 250 for labour. Closer to reasonable. It took dan and a buddy two hrs to do it, but a mech on a hoist would be quickest. If the mech is a trusted soul' he's probably worth it. It may be a worst case senario with the experience he's had. He may adjust it to the actual time if your a regular. I've always liked family type mechs. They usually balance out over time with advice and info. I've had them tell me in the past that they adjusted this and that while they were in there for no charge. Depends on the relationship I guess.
Fred
Fred
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
Likes: 2
From: Northern Maine
We did have a vehicle lift. The price for the parts that I quoted was what I actually paid at the auto parts store. (Car Quest, lifetime guarantee) I did not get any special discount on the parts, but I did not pay the mechanic's mark-up either, which in my area runs about 30%. My helper was actually a semi-retired mechanic so in reality, I was the helper. We did the job in his shop so we had all of the tools at our disposal and he knew all of the short cuts as he has been in business for over 30 years. The job would have gone a little quicker but that stubborn ball joint that I mentioned cost us about 1/2 hour. To give an example of his ability, several years ago, this same friend and I put a clutch in a Ford Tempo. The job, start to finish, took us 3 hours.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 68
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From: Augusta, GA
I just got an lower ball joint done by a front end specialist. 33.40 for the ball joint & 97.50 labor 1-1/2 hrs also upper control arm w/ ball joint 46.40 parts / 65.00 labor. Labor rates went by the book. Just for some comparrison for you.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Dan Robertson,
On your 1998, both upper and lower ball joints were removeable sounds like ... every book I can find on Rangers warns that 1998-1999 versions were not replaceable - i.e. the ball joints are integral with the control ar,s.
Mine is 1998 with 2wd and coil springs ... sound like yours?
I got suspicious cause all parts houses, in spite of the books warning about replacing the arms, all had part numbers for the ball joints themselves.
re the procedure, did you pull spring or do it with arms in place?
Would appreciate some tips on procedure you used ...
I have c frame to press fit ...
Thanks!
On your 1998, both upper and lower ball joints were removeable sounds like ... every book I can find on Rangers warns that 1998-1999 versions were not replaceable - i.e. the ball joints are integral with the control ar,s.
Mine is 1998 with 2wd and coil springs ... sound like yours?
I got suspicious cause all parts houses, in spite of the books warning about replacing the arms, all had part numbers for the ball joints themselves.
re the procedure, did you pull spring or do it with arms in place?
Would appreciate some tips on procedure you used ...
I have c frame to press fit ...
Thanks!
5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Thanks - so, in spite of all the statements from the Chiltons, etc, both upper and lower bjs are replaceable - way cool!
I have lift and now C press and a fork - everyone seems to respect Moog as a US provider - worth it? I have seen what were described as "Asian" sourced that were much less expensive ... recommendations? I usually opt to pay a bit more for domestic ...
BTW, did you need to remove the spring or shock? Do you need to keep weight on the control arms or can the be worked on unloaded? Was thee enough clearance to press our and in the upper bj? Looks a bit tight ...
Thanks!
I have lift and now C press and a fork - everyone seems to respect Moog as a US provider - worth it? I have seen what were described as "Asian" sourced that were much less expensive ... recommendations? I usually opt to pay a bit more for domestic ...
BTW, did you need to remove the spring or shock? Do you need to keep weight on the control arms or can the be worked on unloaded? Was thee enough clearance to press our and in the upper bj? Looks a bit tight ...
Thanks!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
Likes: 2
From: Northern Maine
The coil springs, shocks etc can all stay in place as well as the upper and lower control arms (A-Frames). The brake calipers had to be removed but not disconnected. I hung them from the frame with a piece of wire to keep them out of the way. I cant seem to remember which one, upper or lower, (50 years old does that to a person) but we had to take the C-clamp press apart and install it upside down to make it work. Again, one of them was a real bugger. It just wouldn't come out on its own. When our biggest hammer didnt work, a little application of "liquid wrench" in the form of an acetylene torch did the trick quite well.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Thanks - helps a lot - sounds like many folks just replace the entire upper arm vice replacing the ball joint - probably faster, but I have the time so think I'll give it a shot ...
BTW, when you took torch to it, did you just cut into the ball joint, or apply heat around perimeter until you could dislodge it with the press?
BTW, when you took torch to it, did you just cut into the ball joint, or apply heat around perimeter until you could dislodge it with the press?