turbo back exhaust no cat or muffler for 97 longbox extended cab. Cheap as possible

 

check ebay. there's one i have seen after shipping around 320 bucks. straight pipe all the way back. if i can ever get the money for a system it will be the one i use. dont want a muffler, loud as possible.

 

I called dppi, I kept the muffler and pipes. I am testing that cat replaced the down pipe (3"). I forgot the actual pricing but it was cheap. you will need HEAT(small torch set), sawzall, hammer, block of wood, patience and beer. good saturday morning project.
Thanks to BAZ it's EASY!: http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_import/pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/index3.html
DownPipe-TurboExhaustOutletInstallation

Raise the vehicle to working height with hoist or jack stands. Remove the two nuts at the catalytic converter and turbo down pipe flange. Move rearward and to the side for working clearance. Loosen (but do not remove) the v-clamp at the turbo outlet, then shake the down pipe from below to loosen at the turbo outlet. Remove the MAP sensor on the firewall to create sufficient working area for the Sawzall. Remove the transmission dipstick and tube. To Keep debris or metal shavings from getting into the exposed end of the dipstick tube under the vehicle, place a clean, large rag or wiper in the opening. (Be sure your rag or wiper is big enough that it will not fall into the tube) Angle the Sawzall high and to the left and cut the down pipe approximately 4 inches from the clamp which connects it to the turbo. The object is to remove the "corba head" from the upper end of the down pipe so that it is possible to drop the remainder of the pipe out of the bottom of the vehicle. "I used a 18 volt cordless Ryobi, it took all of 3 minutes" Note: We suggest starting with a new blade (Milwaukee#5187 metal cutting blade) because the factory pipe material is tough and dulls blades rapidly. Remove both sections of the factory pipe, then determine the path for the new US Gear "round" down pipe by inserting the top section of the new pipe into the empty channel which contained the factory down pipe. Take note of where the new pipe will cross the body seam under the vehicle. Reverse the blade in the say (or turn the say upside down) and, from under the vehicle, make two cuts in the body seam approximately 3# on each side of the path where the new pipe will cross the seam. Place the "duck-bill" port-a-power at the body seam and transmission and with a block of wood, fold the seam toward the rear of the vehicle as shown. This will create the necessary clearance for the new down pipe to be placed in the path without coming into contact with the body seam. With the insulating material provided, wrap the top section of the new down pipe and clam the end. Note: Soak the wrap in water to make the material more flexible. Remember to leave 2 to 3 inches exposed at the bottom to allow for the slip joint on the lower section. Install the top section to the turbo outlet with the v-clamp provided. Note: The v-clamp included with the kit is a spare in case there is damage done to the factory clamp during removal or reinstallation. Do not tighten at this time. Position the top edge of the 3" Torca clamp provided flush with the top edge of pipe. The clamp must cover the slots. Finish tightening nut to approximately 60 ft. lbs. (Note: If torque wrench is not available, tighten nut until 13-14 bolt threads are exposed beyond nut (13/16" -7/8"). This is equivalent to the diameter of a nickel. Reattach the catalytic converter to the flange, but do not tighten. Staring at the flange, position all the components for proper clearance and begin to tighten, working up the pipe toward the turbo. With the down pipe in the proper position, tighten the turbo v-clamp to 50 - 70 in. lbs. Reinstall the transmission dipstick assembly and the MAP sensor. Star the engine and check for exhaust leaks. Power brake the vehicle in both forward and reverse to ensure clearance, adjust if necessary (Body clearance). Most of the direction you need to get the room from is going to be directed at the passenger side door.


Don't forget the heat, patience and beer

 

My AFE 4in turboback system was $370 shipped from dppi, including a $50 stainless tip, which of course is optional. It included a 3in - 3.5in - 4in dp (3in at the turbo, 4in at the bottom). It was barely a 3.5hr install. It came with a muffler and enough straight pipe to plumb a CC LB without the muffler all the way back. Maybe you could get a discount if you don't want the muffler.

 

Check with Bryan @ http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/

I purchased a Diamond Eye system from him back in February.

 

Diamond eye makes a great dual and single 4" kit!

Cowboy Steve