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Has anyone checked the vibration damper? The outer rim with the timing marks could be rotated on the 'rubber bushing'. Put it at TDC, and rotate it two turns to see if the intake and exhaust are opening and closing at the right time.
I would also check the wires to the dist for breaking inside the insulation, but you probably have an inductor inside the dist that is opening up. The pickup inside the dist sends a pulse to the TFI, and it has a coil with a bajillion windings of *small* wire that can break up, additionally, the rubber plug the TFI plugs into is known for turning into crud over time... thus the wires get loose.
Have you tried loosening up each set of rocker arms at their own TDC and then just taking the slack out of them. It may clatter a bit, but would take the valve train out of the question.
If the TFI/Dist pickup are on the way out, they *could* fire the coil whenever they wanted.
tom
sounds to me like the distributor is out a tooth. they will tend to be hard to start if they are off a tooth. how far did you have to adjust the distributor to get it to run right?
sounds to me like the distributor is out a tooth. they will tend to be hard to start if they are off a tooth. how far did you have to adjust the distributor to get it to run right?
that wont matter as long as the marks line up on the balancer with the light.....
Carb has not even 100 miles on the rebuild, tuned the carb when rebuilt on a different vehicle. It ran better than the guy's carb that belonged on the car.
I inspected the harmonic balancer when I did the timing chain. Not guaranteeing that it is in fact good, but did not appear screwed up.
The plugs, rotor, cap, wires, pickup unit in the dist., ICM, timing chain, water pump, radiator, etc.............. are all new.
I think earlier in this fight with it we were in fact a tooth out with the distibutor. It had to be turned all the way to the passenger's side to run at all. Now we have full range of the distibutor's range to adjust with. After playing with it yesterday, the popping back through really isn't as bad as it was, but now it is hard to start again, and definitely isn't running right on the road.
A friend has a dial indicator that mounts on the head to see EXACTLY how much each rocker is moving. I'm gonna find this problem. Again tho- I may just say screw it, buy the cam kit and a coil and start all over.
Last edited by cfrives3; May 21, 2007 at 06:03 PM.
Carb has not even 100 miles on the rebuild, tuned the carb when rebuilt on a different vehicle. It ran better than the guy's carb that belonged on the car.
I inspected the harmonic balancer when I did the timing chain. Not guaranteeing that it is in fact good, but did not appear screwed up.
The plugs, rotor, cap, wires, pickup unit in the dist., ICM, timing chain, water pump, radiator, etc.............. are all new.
I think earlier in this fight with it we were in fact a tooth out with the distibutor. It had to be turned all the way to the passenger's side to run at all. Now we have full range of the distibutor's range to adjust with. After playing with it yesterday, the popping back through really isn't as bad as it was, but now it is hard to start again, and definitely isn't running right on the road.
A friend has a dial indicator that mounts on the head to see EXACTLY how much each rocker is moving. I'm gonna find this problem. Again tho- I may just say screw it, buy the cam kit and a coil and start all over.
I know this is an old post, but how did you make out? I have the exact same problem on my 351w. I've replaced everything but the distributor at this point and wonder if its a cam issue. I got so frustrated, I wound up walking away from it for a bit. Did you wind up using the dial indicator?
I did end up getting the cam kit and tearing it down for like the 4th time to install it. I really feel like an idiot, but it ended up being the coil. The warmer the motor, the worse it ran. It could not burn all of the fuel, hence all the popping. This is also why it wanted to be so far advanced on the timing. I can't believe I didn't figure this out sooner. No regrets though, I can almost say that my motor is brand new. I sure hope this helps you. A coil is an inexpensive part, so you wouldn't be out much if you went and got a new one to try this.
I did end up getting the cam kit and tearing it down for like the 4th time to install it. I really feel like an idiot, but it ended up being the coil. The warmer the motor, the worse it ran. It could not burn all of the fuel, hence all the popping. This is also why it wanted to be so far advanced on the timing. I can't believe I didn't figure this out sooner. No regrets though, I can almost say that my motor is brand new. I sure hope this helps you. A coil is an inexpensive part, so you wouldn't be out much if you went and got a new one to try this.
I never thought of it either. Off to the parts store tomorrow! I'll let you know. Thanks!
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