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i just put a used 7.3 inmy 92 rollback. i had a problem with it dying after starting(leaking connector at the tank selector), sputtering and blue smoke @2200 rpm(couple of fuel filter changes to clean out the old diesel). it has ran fine for about 2 weeks. now i've noticed when i'm running about 55mph and up and in the range of 2400 rpm and up, when i let off the accelerator the truck will puff out some bluesh/white smoke. if i'm going down hill and ease off it will smoke nonstop until the rpms get below 2400.this truck is geared really low in the rear and has a zf 5spd, it can run about 55-60 mph @ 2400 to 2800 rpm, loaded or unloaded. also i noticed yesterday when i was loaded pretty good, occasionally i would get a slight bit of black smoke when climbing some grades, not too bad though. the motor i put in had about 120k on it but ran great and leaks no oil.i have not done an oil change yet, after new stuff at the swap 500 mi ago.i did notice my oil pressure runnung at the "o" in "normal" yesterday after having been at the "r-m" before, if that means anything.any ideas, tips or warnings on this stuff is greatly appreciated.
Blue smoke is usually a sign of the engine burning some oil. Possibly you need new valve guide oil seals. Black smoke, in my opinion, is a good sign-means the engine is getting suficient fuel under load.
When you put the used motor in did you change the oil pressure sensor? also check the timing on the motor. that is where i would start. also what color is the smoke the rest of the time?
I would suspect one of two things are causing your smoke
1) timing is too slow - this is the easier of the two to fix just advance the timing a little at a time until you start to hear the "powerstroke rattle" (pinging)
2) valve seals are shot & sucking oil past them into the cylinders when you let off the throttle. If this is the problem its a tougher to fix, but it can be done without removing the heads. There is a tool that you can use to compress the springs and remove them from the valves without removing the heads. You have to do one cylinder at a time - get that cylinder to TDC & blow high pressure compressed air into the cylinder through the glow plug hole to keep the valves from dropping while you replace the stem seals.
I'd agree with a timing issue causing the smoke. Maybe the advance piston sticking in the pump? Run lots of lubricity additive in your fuel, there isn't any in the fuel anymore. Pretty hard for valve seals to suck enough oil to see smoke while driving.
2) valve seals are shot & sucking oil past them into the cylinders when you let off the throttle. If this is the problem its a tougher to fix, but it can be done without removing the heads. There is a tool that you can use to compress the springs and remove them from the valves without removing the heads. You have to do one cylinder at a time - get that cylinder to TDC & blow high pressure compressed air into the cylinder through the glow plug hole to keep the valves from dropping while you replace the stem seals.
That special tool is a little hard to get ahold of. When I did my valve stem seals, I took it to a reputable shop to get them done. Cost me about $600. That price includes the injector return lines (the mechanic doing the seals disturbed one of the lines). Since the return lines were the origionals, I okayed the replacement. Saves me some work
thanks for the tips.how exactly do i advance the timing.the lines on the ip and case are lined up.no i didn't change the oil pressure sensor.i didn't change the injectors.new return lines.new lift pump.it doesn't smoke any other time besides just a little at start up. could it be caused by another leak in the fuel lines, that could be causing it and at start up? i don't think it's worth tackling the valve seals.thanks again.
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