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Hello all. I am new to the truck/off road scene, but am eager to get involved.
I recently bought a 1994 Ford Bronco EB (351W, manual trans. case). I bought it with a 4" lift and 33" Bridgestones on 15"x10" rims. The truck pulls left constantly while driving and pulls more when I brake. I had an alignment done, but the mechanic said everything was fine. I have checked the calipers and they seem fine also. Any help would be appreciated.
bronco's have a habit of wearing out ball joints ecspecially with big tires on them, the alingment could check fine but the truck will pull ,ecspecially when braking. ck the ball joints!
Thank you for the responses. The rotors are new, along with pads, drums, shoes, and steel-braided lines to accomodate the lift. I have rotated each tire to every position (tried all combinations) and the pressures are all equal, but it still pulls left. I will have to check the ball joints this weekend.
you need to check the radius arm bushings.
i had same problem on 85 f150( same set-up) and when the bushings wear, the truck will pullto side like you said.
you might also find that the one next to catalytic converter has melted, which can cause pull to side also.
i put in urethane bushings and the thing drives like new.
In order to pass inspection I had to replace the left radius arm bushing (which I did) unfortunately with a stock part. The right side has since melted, but the truck pulled left before the right bushing melted. Since I need to replace it, I'll put urethane bushings in and I'll see if it helps. Do the urethane bushings hold up against the heat better?
Do you have extended aftermarket radius arms? The reason I ask is that it may be possible the person who relocated the radius arms may have drilled the holes slightly off from where they should be. Any fraction of an inch farther forwards or backwards can cause havoc with alignment.
Dustin Siebert
mrlaserboy(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
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'88 Bronco XLT 302EFI/AOD/BW1356/44IFS with 8 lugs(open)/10.25 FF(Lockright locker)/4.56/6" Superlift complete/2" BL/35's-street/38.5's-trails
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nando, i don't know if urethane bushings hold up any better, but, you can get a heat shield around it. some years had them stock and they fit around the bushing leaving about 1/2" of clearance around the rubber.
it is easy to make something out of sheetmetal to sit between converter and radius arm.
nando, i also found on my 85 f150, that the radius arm had cracked at the bottom of the front part of the arm where it meets the axle. i could only see it when i jacked the truck up and put a stand under frame and let some weight off of the axle. the radius arm would pull away from axle at the crack as i let it down. the space would go to almost 1/2"!!!!. this made for some fun steering on bumpy roads. i replaced the arm for 50.00 from a recycler. just thought you might want to check for this.
I have also have a 94 Bronco that had been driving me nuts with a pull to the left(mostly under hard braking)I replaced all the front brake and suspension parts with no luck. I had checked the back brakes (when it first started) because someone told me they can cause this type of problem.I thought everything looked fine. I decided to change the brake shoes last weekend and discovered that the wheel cylinders where rusted inside and my back brakes where not working very well. New wheel cylinders set me back about $15 ea and now I have no more pulls and my brakes work awesome.
mrlaserboy, no I don't have exetended radius arms, they are the stock arms.
billyb, my truck has the heat shield covering the radius arm bushing, but it still melted (imagine that). I bought the new bushings this weekend but did not have the opportunity to replace them. I'll also check for cracks on the radius arms.
JoeB, I replaced the drums and shoes, but not the cylinders (they seemed fine at the time). For $15 each, they're worth replacing to see if it helps.
One other thing to take a quick look at is the rear spring bushings and u-bolts, if either of these are on the way out it can cause the type of tracking problem you've described. Also make sure the springs are "centered" on the axle, there is usually a small bolt that keeps the springs in line, they do sometimes snap. Might want to make some quick measurements from the frame to the springs and to the backside of the wheels just to make sure everything is "square", front and rear.