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i got a 76 302 and i was drivin down tha road and it started tickin from the passenger side of the motor and i slowed down and figured id check it when i get home but the tickin turned into a loud knock and the engine died on me and wont crank anymore. can anyone tell me what might have happend ?? (broke a rod) ?
Tick to loud knock to no run. Hhhmm.. Did it lock up? Will it spin with the starter?
If you break a rod and don't saw through the cam or block, they will run a looonnng time before the debris chews up the rest of the motor to the point where she caves in.
If it spins, check the dizzy to see if it's moving too. Then check to see how much slop there is in the cam chain. Turn the motor one way by hand, till the rotor moves in the dizzy. Then reverse the turn by and and see how much crank rotation you have before the rotor moves. Anything more than a few degrees means cam chain is loose. May have jumped time.
No luck? Pull the valve cover and turn the motor over and look for what moves and what doesn't.
Try a compression test. Or first just pull the plugs and turn it over. No air in/of a cylinder means that piston is not moving.
I would say water in the oil. We could guess all day as to why but the only way to know for sure is to tear it down. If ya need it ASAP I would get a running one from a yard and have it on the road in a weekend for a couple hundred bucks. This gives ya time to decide if ya want to go with a long block or build an engine your self. You definitely have something broke, Not just a head gasket or something simple.
would a 460 bolt to my fmx trans cause if i got to rebuild im goin with 351w/ 390 or 460. i got alot of new stuff on this motor so im sure i can part it out and make a little cash.
Different bolt pattern than a 460. Go with the 351W. IMHO Fords latest best small block. And the build capability's is unlimited. Know that nothing from the 302 will fit it except things like the carb and Alt.
well i found time to get the valve cover off and i relized that i had adjustable rockers and one had come loose,and that i have a blown head gasket ,when i put water in the radiator it floods the head with water. my question is do i have to rebuild since theres water in the oil and all in the head??? or is there a way to remove all the water replace the head gasket and it will be fine??
Replace the gaskets. All on top end. Be very carfull to get the rear intake to stay put as most rear seal leaks are from here and not the seal. Than change oil and filter a couple time in the first 100 miles or so till the oil is clean. Should be good to go.
I think I'd pull the pan and check your bearings. That will tell you if it's a head gasket R&R, or a major rebuild. Look for cracks in the head. It might not be just a blown gasket.
Water in crankcase:bad.
Water just in combustion chamber:maybe not quite so bad.
If the water is coming out of the top of the head and laying where the rockers are and not coming out between the head and block or the intake and head than ya have a busted head. Is the water coming out of the gasket between the intake and head? And yes dropping the pan to clean it if nothing else is good. But ya most likely got to pull the engine to do that. SO FIND OUT EXACTLY WHERE THE WATER IS LEAKING FIRST. Than we can go from there.
Pull all spark plugs and see if any have water on them. Spin engine over and see if water comes out any plug holes. Sometimes just poring water in the radiator will have it come out a plug hole. This ain't good. First of all drain the pan as you do not want the water level in there to reach the crank. And ya dont want to pump any more through the engine. So leave the plug out while looking for the leak. It won't hurt to spin it on the starter at this point with no oil in the pan.
Last edited by arctic y block; May 14, 2007 at 09:03 PM.
I replaced the oil pumps on my '70 and '79 302's just by jacking up the motor a couple inches- don't need to pull it. You've already established that you have water in the oil, right? Doesn't matter where it's coming from, you gotta pull the heads anyway. Any machine shop can pressure test them for cracks cheap. If you've got water in the oil, it's already reached the bearings. I don't know that I'd spin the motor with no oil, especially if it HAS had water in it. If you haven't munched your bearings already, why run the risk? JMO
well i recon i got a cracked head cause the water/oil is coming out the top of tha head and laying were the rockers are.i reocn ill start looking for a 351w
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