it will go its a old ford
Cant set ign timing. Jumped time?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Cant set ign timing. Jumped time?
Im confused...nothing new there. 
Got most everything on the truck done and hoped to make some final adjustments. Plug wires are on order. Points, condenser, plugs are new. I started it up aimed timing light and it's WAY off... nearly 90 degrees.
I can turn distributor and get it to move the right direction but it starts running much worse and wont even try to idle. The vacuum advanc is going to hit the back of the carb before it gets to wher it needs to be anyway I think. Turned crank around to TDC and looks like dist pointer is pointing to the cap next to the #1 cap. I was thinking that maybe the distributor was off a tooth, but seems like it should run better the closer I get to where it should be.
Any advice here. Im wondering if the cam timing may be off? Dont these things jump a tooth occasionally? Any advice appreciated.
Luke (aint used to distributors)
Got most everything on the truck done and hoped to make some final adjustments. Plug wires are on order. Points, condenser, plugs are new. I started it up aimed timing light and it's WAY off... nearly 90 degrees.
I can turn distributor and get it to move the right direction but it starts running much worse and wont even try to idle. The vacuum advanc is going to hit the back of the carb before it gets to wher it needs to be anyway I think. Turned crank around to TDC and looks like dist pointer is pointing to the cap next to the #1 cap. I was thinking that maybe the distributor was off a tooth, but seems like it should run better the closer I get to where it should be.
Any advice here. Im wondering if the cam timing may be off? Dont these things jump a tooth occasionally? Any advice appreciated.
Luke (aint used to distributors)
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Just pulled distributor out and put back in. I think I moved it a tooth (??) but same story.... it backfired and conked out real quick when I get it anywhere close to where it should be.
Time to put the battery on the charger too.
Time to put the battery on the charger too.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Still perplexed....
It wont even come close to idling. It shows to be firing waaaay after TDC. Im closer now, but running much worse. When I first posted this problem it showed me firing probably 30-40 degrees ATDC as I had to look on the drivers side of the engine to see the marks on the damper.
I do have clearance on both valves at TDC. I did just set the valves cold though. I guess I would still have clearance even if the cam was off some, huh?
I do have clearance on both valves at TDC. I did just set the valves cold though. I guess I would still have clearance even if the cam was off some, huh?
Last edited by luke-gr; May 13, 2007 at 05:57 PM.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
did you replace the cam also?
you need to double check TDC on damper. pull #1 spark plug. crank engine over by hand and stick your finger in the cylinder. you'll feel the piston start to move up or down. your rotor should be at #1 or 180degs from #1. if the rotor is at #1 it is the compression stroke (firing to #1) like you mentioned, dist. may be off a tooth and you will need to mark the location as best you can and when you reinstall the dist, the rotor will rotate.
get er close, it should fire. may run awful but get it close. then you can get your timing adjusted. it all really is touchy and i hate dists. at the rear. hard on the back.
double check to make sure you dont have a vacuum leak.
and dont forget to reinstall the #1 plug before fire up.
you need to double check TDC on damper. pull #1 spark plug. crank engine over by hand and stick your finger in the cylinder. you'll feel the piston start to move up or down. your rotor should be at #1 or 180degs from #1. if the rotor is at #1 it is the compression stroke (firing to #1) like you mentioned, dist. may be off a tooth and you will need to mark the location as best you can and when you reinstall the dist, the rotor will rotate.
get er close, it should fire. may run awful but get it close. then you can get your timing adjusted. it all really is touchy and i hate dists. at the rear. hard on the back.
double check to make sure you dont have a vacuum leak.
and dont forget to reinstall the #1 plug before fire up.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Thanks man. No cam work. This has been parked in a barn for years and beginning to wonder if there might have been a problem that was the reason it was parked. I had a local fellow mention the damper may have rotated on the rubber in the damper and he suggested the same thing....verifying that indicated TDC is actually piston TDC.
Will post when I know more....
Will post when I know more....
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Thanks to my local parts guy who made this suggestion. Looks like the pulley slipped on the rubber damper so indicated TDC was not really TDC. Now I know I need to re-check all the valves. Its way off probably like 60 degrees. Grrr.....
At least I know now.
At least I know now.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
From: australia
Trending Topics
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
I had a similar thing happen to my 239.
It actually ran fine for a few months. One day I started it up and it didn't want to run very well and in fact I had a hard time getting it to start period.
I tried everything including rebuilding the carb and it seemed to get worse.
Finally I had to move the distributor timing 30-40 degrees to get it to run at all and it had almost no power!
I concluded the timing chain had slipped a few degrees. It doesn't take much to get the valves out of time enough to run poorly.
You probably should just pull the water pump and timing cover and verify it for yourself. If the chain is sloppy you can easily replace the timing set. It doesn't cost much.
I removed the engine. I had recently obtained an old 292 from a 60 F-100.
I took it to a local machine shop and they bored it, balanced it and ported the heads.
I'll have somewhere between 9.5-10:1 compression ratio (stock was 9.6:1) and a mild RV/truck cam.
It is going to get exhaust headers and a 4v Holley carb
Cheers,
Rick
It actually ran fine for a few months. One day I started it up and it didn't want to run very well and in fact I had a hard time getting it to start period.
I tried everything including rebuilding the carb and it seemed to get worse.
Finally I had to move the distributor timing 30-40 degrees to get it to run at all and it had almost no power!
I concluded the timing chain had slipped a few degrees. It doesn't take much to get the valves out of time enough to run poorly.
You probably should just pull the water pump and timing cover and verify it for yourself. If the chain is sloppy you can easily replace the timing set. It doesn't cost much.
I removed the engine. I had recently obtained an old 292 from a 60 F-100.
I took it to a local machine shop and they bored it, balanced it and ported the heads.
I'll have somewhere between 9.5-10:1 compression ratio (stock was 9.6:1) and a mild RV/truck cam.
It is going to get exhaust headers and a 4v Holley carb
Cheers,
Rick
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Thanks! I havent had much more time to play with it. I THINK it was just the slipped damper that was leading me to try to set the timing way off.... I have a new muffler to put on. I also think vacuum advance may have a leak. Will verify with mityvac soon.
Slowly but surely......
Slowly but surely......
New User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Luke-gr
if this engine has lots of miles due normal wear the timing chain may have jumped time. this will only happen when you turn the engine off. the sudden stop of gear movement, will cause timing to throw a loop in itself & jump over several timing teeth...... mojavebutch.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 4
From: Southern Oregon
Mojave welcome to the site! Your description of jumped timing via belt is very interesting. I had previously thought the occurrence would take place under load.
Regarding the dampner, they can be rebuilt. However like most people I opted to find a good used unit. $40 vs $125.
Regarding the dampner, they can be rebuilt. However like most people I opted to find a good used unit. $40 vs $125.
Last edited by 46yblock; Jul 5, 2007 at 09:50 PM.
New User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
when you get a good dampner installed, try this. bring no.# 1 cylinder up on compression stroke, now whare is your timing pointer? if it is off , so is your timing chain. be sure to look thisone up. ford y-blocks time like no other. mojave butch
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
#1 verification? Which is #1?
Just getting to this and was about to send off the damper but noticed there is a mark on the pulleys as wells as on the balancer weight. They are in line and the pulleys cant move....the weight could slip but the pulley marks cannot move as they are part of the sleeve.
Maybe Ive goofed checking TDC. Book says right front cylinder. That is right cylinder while sitting in the truck right?
Maybe Ive goofed checking TDC. Book says right front cylinder. That is right cylinder while sitting in the truck right?