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Trailer Hitch?

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Old May 11, 2007 | 12:09 AM
  #1  
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cadriver
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Question Trailer Hitch?

I want to install a good heavy duty trailer hitch on my 2000 3.0 5spd manual,
4x2 xtra cab, does someone had any experience with the ones selling in eBay?
Are these hitches strong heavy duty, or what can you recomend?
One more thing, there are two kinds of hitch one is round and the other square, does it make any difference?
Thanks!
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 12:21 AM
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Benaghetto
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I'm currently doing the same, searching ebay, myself. Just look at the weight rating. Shape is irrelavant if its rated at 500/5000 or over. That'd be class III or above you'd be looking for. Keep in mind that you're truck (so is mine) is limited in its towing ability from the get go: only 2 wheel drive, 3.0, open differential.

BTW: A hitch from any year Ranger will fit any Ranger application.
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 12:31 AM
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So I guess we don't need anything larger than a class II, and my truck is stick, and has a 3.73 axle, I think the max total weight for my truck is #2000 ,Am I right?
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 12:35 AM
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Benaghetto
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I'm unsure, but the sticker in the drivers door of your truck should say so. My rear is a 3.45 and I've never had problems with hauling seadoos, johnboats, small flatbed trailers, towing cars. But I'd never try anything more. In your case the only thing that'd hold you back is your springs in the rear if you get a hitch. Beef them up and you could pull around about anything you want. But safety comes into concern at a certain point.
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Benaghetto
I'm unsure, but the sticker in the drivers door of your truck should say so. My rear is a 3.45 and I've never had problems with hauling seadoos, johnboats, small flatbed trailers, towing cars. But I'd never try anything more. In your case the only thing that'd hold you back is your springs in the rear if you get a hitch. Beef them up and you could pull around about anything you want. But safety comes into concern at a certain point.
Now you're confusing me?
You said The rear frame is not designed to install and support safely a receiver hitch to tow heavy loads?, I have in mind to pull around #2000, the bumper can do that but I feel more safe with a hitch.
BTW, where you suppose to bolt the hitch to?
the receivers in eBay look pretty simple to install I think it's 4 bolts and your done?
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 12:53 AM
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I didnt really say that. From the factory our trucks arent designed as tow rigs. Thats what I was saying. When you said "heavy duty" I was making sure you werent going off the deep end in your thinking. The hitch bolts to the existing holes for the bumper mount. The hitch will come with all new longer bolts to replace the originals. Towing 2000 lbs shouldnt be much of a problem at all if properly distributed and using a hitch.
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 01:04 AM
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I wonder what's the big difference between using the bumper or a hitch that bolts onto a bumper support, it's mounted the same way is the bumper, so where's that extra support?
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 01:06 AM
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The extra support is that its bolted directly to the frame with like 3/8-1/2 inch thick steel. Not 1/4 steel that's extended back from the frame with weak mounting arms.
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 01:16 AM
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.................................................. .................................................. .....
 

Last edited by cadriver; May 11, 2007 at 01:28 AM.
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Old May 11, 2007 | 01:32 AM
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I'm sorry. The hitch bolts strongly to it and the bumper is the weaker one because of its weak mounts compared to the hitch.
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 02:38 AM
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1-your rear springs are fine, unless they put weaker ones on the 3.0 than the 4.0. I am towing a 24' Fifth wheel with my B4000, 4x2.

2-2wd makes a better tow vehicle to to less weight of the truck and less drag loss of the front drivetrain on the 4x4.

3-They are correct in saying all ranger hitches fit all rangers, for the most part. Some of the tubular designs that hide better in the Class 3 setup only list for like 98 and up. I dunno if its just the size of the spare, or why they are different.

4- what brands are you seeing on ebay? If the price is right, you will have good luck with Valley, Hidden Hitch, Curt, Putnam, of course Draw-Tite and Reese, and any Uhaul labeled unit. Also a used good shape factory hitch from ford.

5-install is cake. I did mine at a Dunkin Donuts parking lot at 1 am while hanging out with some friends, and then just hit it with a torque wrench the next day.

6-You may be listed for only 2000, but as long as you have trailer brakes, you are safe to 3500 with the setup you have. You will not be winning and drag races, and thats not how you should tow anyways. And dont be afraid to drop down to 20 mph and 2nd gear to let the truck comfortably work its way up steep grades.

Most of all, use common sense, be safe, and enjoy the work you little ranger will do for you.
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 07:03 AM
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CMOS
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Guys,

I saw that China Mart (Wally World) has a Class III hitch for just a little over $100 bucks. Is there any reason why this wouldn't also be a quality hitch?

CMOS
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 10:46 AM
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As long as there is quality bolts to go with the hitch it should be fine. Its probably one of those universal type hitches if I've seen what you're talking about before in the store.
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 01:28 PM
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Found a Class 1 hitch on line for $100 called my Linex dealer in New London, CT and $175 for a Class IV installed. Sure it's more than I need but I'm like that. Plus he threw in the new ball for free. It takes 1" thread ball not the 3/4" in the bumper.
 
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Old May 11, 2007 | 09:41 PM
  #15  
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At least get a class 3 hitch. In my opinion, a class 1 hitch is good to mount a bicycle carrier, and barely adequate for a small utility trailer. With the class 3, you get a 2" square receiver. Inserts are pretty much universal at that point, and you'll be way way way ahead of a bumper pull.

My Draw Tite installed in about 20 minutes, but what took the longest was lowering the spare to access the mounting bolts.
 
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