'76 Transfar case swap question
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: North Pole, Alaska
'76 Transfar case swap question
I have the NP435/D21 out, and the NP435/NP205 almost in. Got the tranny and adapter in, and tried to bolt in the crossmember. Could only get the 2 rear bolts in, the crossmember is flexed in the front and the rubber mount is twisted tight. So we took the crossmember out and loosened all the adjustment bolts, still no go. The adapter is farther back than the mount plate will go by 3/8". This is the crossmember out of the donor rig. My thoughts are this...take out the adjustment bolts on the top plate and put in the adapter and crossmember bolts so everything is where it's supposed to be, then just weld the top plate to the crossmember.
Comments or suggestions anyone?
Comments or suggestions anyone?
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Rep. of Texas
I'm not 100% sure what you are saying... but you will absolutely need a bushing in there. I would think that redrilling/relocating the tranny crossmember to a new location would be the most surefire method of going about things
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From: North Pole, Alaska
Thanks ya'll! I tried to give a good word pic...how about this...we put the tranny in without a problem. Then with the tranny on a jack we slid the adapter, which was bolted to the crossmember, into place. Tightened the tranny to adapter nuts, then with the help of a drift got the 2 rear crossmember to frame bolts in. We were having to force the crossmember forward to line up the holes, so it seems the adapter is farther back in this vehicle than in the donor. That's when I loosened the adjustment bolts on the top, but the plate was as far back as it could go. So I unbolted the crossmember from the adapter, slid it into place and lined up all the frame holes. Now that would work for a little while, but I think the bolts are there for a reason. So then I reasoned I could bolt the top plate (that has the suspension mount on it) the the adapter, but leave the plate mounting bolts out. That way, with the tranny on a jack, every bolt hole can be filled and tightened. After everything is secure, then weld or redrill the top plate (or both) so it all stays in place.
I hope that one is better and heps with the mental visuals. And thanks for the quick responses!
I hope that one is better and heps with the mental visuals. And thanks for the quick responses!
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Rep. of Texas
I preffer bolting things on if possible. That makes removal very easy if needed. Welding is fun and fast, but bolt on is usually better. I think I would redrill the top plate and bolt it on with some Grade 8 hardware...
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From: North Pole, Alaska
Well the weekend was good...got the xfer case bolted in after drilling out the crossmember top plate for proper positioning. Still need to mount the frame support, but need to order the "donut" first so we can make sure it's adjusted to the right height. There are 3 holes in the frame for the support...too bad they're 5/8" too far forward. Now to route exhaust from the headers above the crossmember! Thanks again for the responses!
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