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And here is the other Head. See how clean it is between 3 and 5, and then how clean it is between 5 and 7? Is it possible for a stock head gasket to leak and not blow out? It is obvious that the cometics were leaking. If this is possible, what are my options? Will the motor need to be done over from the ground up again to ensure that is or is not the problem?
No, if it leaked bad enouph you would know with bent valves and bent rods. Not to mention the sound the thing would have made when it hydro locked with enouph water.
Did you just take it apart again? He he he by chance did you check and see if the backpressure tube was bolted back up into the front of the exh....Ive done that.....
I can't thank everyone enough for their persistance in helping me get this figured out. And Alan, I could give you a big ol wet kiss right about now. Or at least a beer. So I went out, lined up the damper mark with the NEW cmp and then removed CMP. The thin mark was not immediately visible. I had to crank the crank a bit to find and center the mark. took a few pic, put the CMP back in and then took another picture of the damper mark in relation to the CMP marker. And here is what it looks like.
And here is the mark in the window
What is that, one, two maybe even three teeth off?? Could this finally after a month of pulling my hair out be the problem?? Hopefully this weekend I can get to it and find out.
I woke up this morning and realized that what I was finding on my engine and what you are finding on yours is two different things. With my timing mark aligned with the pointer on the CPS the thin mark is centered in the hole on my engine. Turn the crank 180 and the gap is now centered.
If your thin marker is centered with the crank turned that far ATDC your cam timing is off.
Dan- Thanks for not giving up, I have been putting in a lot of hours at work, so not much time to get in here. Not even close. I did recheck my timing marks, and it would appear, at least through a mirror, that the timing marks line up. And I also double checked my blown motor, and it is the same.
However I am all for it being a timing problem as well. Which brings up the question, is it possible to check the effective timing on a 7.3? How does the CPS work? What is the correlation between the CPS mark and #1 injector firing? Would it be possible to isolate the wire for #1 injector and place an inductive pickup timing light on it and watch the timing mark on the Damper, basically the same as a gasser?
Dan- Thanks for not giving up, I have been putting in a lot of hours at work, so not much time to get in here. Not even close. I did recheck my timing marks, and it would appear, at least through a mirror, that the timing marks line up. And I also double checked my blown motor, and it is the same.
However I am all for it being a timing problem as well. Which brings up the question, is it possible to check the effective timing on a 7.3? How does the CPS work? What is the correlation between the CPS mark and #1 injector firing? Would it be possible to isolate the wire for #1 injector and place an inductive pickup timing light on it and watch the timing mark on the Damper, basically the same as a gasser?
This would be very easily done with the right equipment. I think that DP tuner uses some sort of pickup in a glow plug hole.
The CPS is a Hall effect sender. LINK TO WIKIPEDIA
I don't know enough about the programming to be able to explain the exact design strategy on the correlation. I don't know if the injectors are commanded to fire on the up side or the down side of the CPS signal. My guess would be on the down side, same as an old mechanical distributor firing a coil when the points open, not close. The spark happens when the field in the coil collapses.
So on those pictures that you took where the timing mark on the pulley is an inch off from the marker on the CPS, at that point the slender marker is dead center in the hole? Or did you have to turn the crankshaft back a little to make everything line up?
Sorry to be so persitant on this one point, but according to those pictures, it's off.
Man, this has become like the old-time radio mystery stories...a new chapter every day or two...I can't wait for the conclusion !
Yeah me too. The suspense is killing me...... Or at least slowing me down....
Dan- Those pictures were taken of the wrong mark, which is why I was so excited at first. There is the actual timing mark, which is a narrow line that is simply two spaces machined closed together, then about 176 degrees around the cam gear there is a narrow "space", or void machined into the surface. I was originally looking at the narrow void, which is just a little off. However when I double checked the with my old motor, I realized my mistake and redid the check. The "mark" lines up perfect in the window, while the damper mark lines up with the cps bar over the damper.
GREAT idea on the glow plug pickup! . I forgot I actually have a Snap-On Diesel timing test kit, however it does not have the fitting for the PSD. but I bet it is an item I can get....So looks like maybe I will try to do that next and settle the timing issue. Hopefully...
It's really too bad that the cam timing is correct because all your symptoms (high egt, lack of power, etc) all point to cam timing be retarded a tooth.
The only other timing related issue I know of could be crank timing
Install the camshaft.
Gently insert the camshaft into the engine block.
NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the camshaft during installation to aid in inserting the camshaft through the camshaft bearings.
*** Before seating the camshaft drive gear with the crankshaft driven gear, rotate the crankshaft driven gear until the timing mark is in the 12 o'clock position. Align the timing mark on the camshaft drive gear with the timing mark on the crankshaft driven gear. Seat the camshaft drive gear with the crankshaft driven gear.