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NOTE: The camshaft timing can be checked while the engine is in the vehicle and the engine front cover is installed. However, if the camshaft timing needs to be adjusted, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and the engine front cover must be removed.
Remove the camshaft position sensor.
Align the timing mark on the crankshaft vibration damper with the timing mark on the cps assembly.
Remove the electrical connector from the camshaft position sensor.
Remove the screw and the camshaft position sensor from the engine front cover.
NOTE: If the narrow gap vane is at the top or the bottom of the camshaft position (CMP) sensor bore, the camshaft mechanical timing is off one tooth and requires repair. For additional information, refer to Engine in the Disassembly portion of this section.
NOTE: If the narrow gap vain is not visible at all in the camshaft position sensor bore, verify Top Dead Center (TDC) No. 1 cylinder. If TDC No. 1 cylinder is verified and the narrow gap vane is still not visible, then mechanical timing requires repair. For additional information, refer to Engine in the Disassembly portion of this section.
Looking through the camshaft position (CMP) sensor bore in the engine front cover, verify that the narrow gap vane on the camshaft drive gear is located in the middle of the bore.
How about fuel delivery timing? Could the Crank shaft timing mark been a couple of teeth off 12 o'clock during the rebuild. That could cause the Timimg disk to be off and make the CPS signal the TDC to the PCM a little early or late Throwing off optimum injection timimng.
I was thinking the same thing. That's the next thing I would suggets you look at. Good call, amiller.
I can't thank everyone enough for their persistance in helping me get this figured out. And Alan, I could give you a big ol wet kiss right about now. Or at least a beer. So I went out, lined up the damper mark with the NEW cmp and then removed CMP. The thin mark was not immediately visible. I had to crank the crank a bit to find and center the mark. took a few pic, put the CMP back in and then took another picture of the damper mark in relation to the CMP marker. And here is what it looks like.
And here is the mark in the window
What is that, one, two maybe even three teeth off?? Could this finally after a month of pulling my hair out be the problem?? Hopefully this weekend I can get to it and find out.
Thats great!!! I hope it fixes your prob. I've been think up a storm and still came up with nothing!! Can't wait to see the dyno #s if thats the fix! Good luck!!
That's great work. My thinking was around the timing being off 1 tooth as I learned on gasburners, but I really didn't know you could check the diesel in the truck. I think the other question that was asked did the piston kiss a valve. Don't know what the internal clearances are on this engine perhaps someone else can answer is this a free turning or inteferrance engine.
Item number 3.
It makes me want to check the cam timing because the PCM gets it's timing value from the CPS which is reading off the cam.
Now if the cam is one tooth retarded, the fuel will be injected into the combustion chamber too late. That will do all the symptoms that you are describing, including raising the combustion chamber temperature high enough to overheat the engine. I don't know if it would show up on the pyrometer or not. But it will make the engine work harder than it should to generate the same amount of HP that a properly tuned engine would.
I've seen red hot exhaust manifolds on a gasser that had the ignition timing too retarded.
Dan- You got me there. I knew someone else had suggested cam timing at one point, just couldn't remember who, and wasn't sure how to check it without I may have to send out a 6 pak to both of you, Alan was able to tell me how to check it without dismantling the motor. Although actually NO BEER YET! Truck still is not officially fixed, but I am pretty excited about it . In fact, I am going to go take a quick look at my ventilated piston motor and see how it lines up just for a bigger warm fuzzy.
Wait a minute, that's right Orezona is buying- I am going to hold you to it too!! Just make min ea Captain and Coke
Hey guys, is there any way for that timing to get off without physical dismantling? Im wanting to check mine because of high rpm loss or lack of power. Some guys discribe the symptoms as having to let off the fuel to achieve more power. Kinda like defueling or the ol gasser timing advance under hard acceleration. Just throwing more troubleshooting in.
And Kwik, pardon me, I didnt re-read the whole deal. Beers yours.
Hey guys, is there any way for that timing to get off without physical dismantling? Im wanting to check mine because of high rpm loss or lack of power. Some guys discribe the symptoms as having to let off the fuel to achieve more power. Kinda like defueling or the ol gasser timing advance under hard acceleration. Just throwing more troubleshooting in.
And Kwik, pardon me, I didnt re-read the whole deal. Beers yours.
I REALLY doubt it. The camshaft is gear driven.
And I couldn't have called that cam timing without FN74's succinct description of symptoms.
Well, I went to storage and checked my motor there just to make sure, and come to find out I was looking at the wrong mark. I was 180 out looking at a narrow slot, not a narrow mark. So, What I am trying to say is that the timing mark is lined up perfect. So back to square one. Head Gasket leak anyone??
My truck is here today at work. I'm going to pull the CPS and see what mine looks like. It will be toward the end of the day.
Your description of very quiet idle still makes me think timing issues. You can "adjust" the amount of diesel knock that an engine will make by advancing or retarding the timing. Advance will make it noisier and retard will quiet it down.
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