problem
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problem
i have a 1993 f-150 and i have been having some trouble. it has been cutting out and acting like its out of fuel and about 50% of the time i come to a stop it dies on me and i have to mash the gas to get it started again. i changed the fuel filter and had a mech. check the fuel pressure and thats all good. so i then changed the plugs and its still acting up any ideas.
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From: Virginia
check the codes. That will give you a really good start. go to www.fordfuelinjection.com and they will explain how to check the codes. If you post the error codes here, then there are a million people who have already done whatever the problem is. Without checking the codes, it's sort of shootting in the dark (or at least a poorly lit room).
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So i checked the codes hopefully i did it right. It gave me a bunch of them so here we go #13,#15,#33,#56,#62 and #73. So i have been driving the truck every day back and fourth to work and i have noticed quite a bit of diffrence in power and it has been dieing at stop sighns but not always just every once and a while and it still is cutting out on me , but thats not all the time either. any help would be awesome. thanks
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From: Virginia
were those codes with the key on engine off, or did you do them with the engine running? Or is this a combo of both?
It looks like you should check your EGR, EVP and TPS. Those three codes did come up. You could be having trouble with your throttle body sensor (TPS) and the truck might not know where the throttle is at, allowing it to die at stops.
On my ride, the TPS sucks to get to, cause you have to take off the throttle body. But, you should get a haynes manual (or other repair manual). It will give oyu a couple of real quick tests to do to check the different valves and sensors. Usually you can check them with a voltmeter. It's alot cheaper to buy the manual (under $10 at www.half.com) and test the parts than just to buy replacements and hope.
Also, maybe you should take the battery terminals off and let the truck sit for a while (30 minutes) to reset the codes. That way, if any of these codes are old, they won't mess up your trouble shooting.
It looks like you should check your EGR, EVP and TPS. Those three codes did come up. You could be having trouble with your throttle body sensor (TPS) and the truck might not know where the throttle is at, allowing it to die at stops.
On my ride, the TPS sucks to get to, cause you have to take off the throttle body. But, you should get a haynes manual (or other repair manual). It will give oyu a couple of real quick tests to do to check the different valves and sensors. Usually you can check them with a voltmeter. It's alot cheaper to buy the manual (under $10 at www.half.com) and test the parts than just to buy replacements and hope.
Also, maybe you should take the battery terminals off and let the truck sit for a while (30 minutes) to reset the codes. That way, if any of these codes are old, they won't mess up your trouble shooting.
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I only did them with the key on engine off. Should i try it with the engine running? Would that give me a better reading? and if i disconnect the battery for a while should i drive the truck before i check the codes again, or can i hook it back up and check them?
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
When you reset the computer it basically has to learn how to use all of the sensors etc in the engine all over again. This is because different types and brands of sensors can act differently. I would reset the computer and drive the truck for 15 or 30 minutes (at least) then check the codes again, both KOEO and KOER.
-Chris
-Chris
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problem
I rechecked the codes after disconecting the battery and the only one that has been showing is EGR valve opening not detected. Is there any way to test the valve before replacing it? Also if the valve is bad why would that make the truck run so crummy, what exatly does it do? Any help would be great before i go and spend 120 BUCKS. thanks
Last edited by sethpb; May 16, 2007 at 11:43 PM. Reason: wrote down wrong sensor
Postmaster
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
The EGR valve controls the amount of exhaust gas that gets recirculated back into your engine. You can imaging that if it malfunctions (for example, gets stuck in the OPEN position) you could be dumping exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber in at alarming rates.... Not good. I would remove the valve and clean it well with a solvent (maybe some brakleen and kerosene). DO NOT stick any kind of brush or cleaning tool too far into it or you will puncture the diaphragm inside and render it useless. Give that a try and if it still malfunctions then get ready to fork over the dough for a new one, although $120 seems a bit steep to me... 
-Chris
-Chris
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
No problem. Keep us posted on how it turns out. Always handy for people to reference threads like this when they have similar problems, and what good is it if you don't confirm the solution!? Good luck!
-Chris
-Chris
