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Sorry I don't have an answer for your 1st question. But for your second question, the 390 will fit a C6 but not the one in your bronco. The 351M, 400M & 460 all had the same bolt pattern, but the 390(I believe the 360 was the same) was different.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 02-Feb-01 AT 00:50 AM (EST)[/font][p]Did I forget to say I tried everything except heat and breaking the B*tch out! just thought someone would have a trick up the sleeve.... By the way I still drive it,but the whole cap(upper & lower cap) moves. When I replaced the timing chain, the chain was 2 teeth and I want to fine tune it.
yo!
sorry dude, didn't know you tried the lube/re breaker bar stuff....don't know how other than getting to the shaft and gears downtown...just know that someone did the same thing here or in the ford truck newsgroup recently.
Apply your fav rust buster, then try to get it to turn by tapping with a rubber mallot or dead blow, this will help the solvent get worked in also. Once you get it to move left and right, then apply pressure underneath while tapping left and right. Sometimes this will get the stubburn ones out, if you use heat, try to get the area around it warm, then use a cooling spray used for electronic equip. to cool the housing and "shrink" it. This has worked for me before.
I replaced mine last summer and it was a real pain. I did the rust solvent etc. I finally notched the shaft and used a air chisel to work it up. The distributor was completely trashed. It was also broken in two , but not from my abuse. I had freshened the motor with a cam and crank etc:then about 2 mo. later the oil pressure acted up. I'm pretty sure this is when the distributor broke. Now that it has been replaced my oil pressure is back to normal.
The best thing that I have used to free rusted things that I could notheat was C-L-R the rust remover. It seems to eat any rust/corrosion very quickly. It works much better than any penetrating oil I have tried.