And one more quation. How this problemm appeared? On a run? Just stalled and that is All??

 

is it still not sparking??? have you tried any of the sugestions here yet?? if yes then you might want to start looking at the ECU i believe there are places that can test these units, maybe a ford dealership.?
Cheers cbr900

 

Look! Aero sparks w/o ECU. My friend has Sierra 2.9 EEC-IV converted to Natural Gas. If ECU is removed, engine does not run on benzine, on Natural gas only, but runs slowly, becouse there is no SP-OUT signal.

 

The first thing you need to establish is that there is truely no spark. I assume you tested this by removing a plug and holding it 1/4" to 1/2" from a good ground? second of, is power getting to the coil. You can check this by turning the key on, but do not start the motor. The positive terminal of the coil should have the same reading as the battery, within 10%. If power is getting to the coil, then you need to check the ignition module. My local autozone will test these for free, I assume that other parts stores will as well. If all these things test good, and there is still no spark, then I would assume that there is either a problem with the pickup in the distributor, or you have a bad connection somewhere. The ignition module will not trigger a field decay in the coil if there is no pip signal. On my moms van, we had a difficult no spark condition, and it ended up being the plug that attached to the ignition module. They attached a new plug and it has run well ever since. I would not suspect that the ECU is involved in any way, since the entire ignition system is capable of operating without an ECU. The spout plug, (used when setting the ignition timing) can be probed with an led test light to check for spout signal, which is triggered by the pip signal, so if you get a spout signal, the pickup coil in the distributor is working.

I assume that you have already ruled out other ignition components, like faulty plugs and wires, and that all wires are snapped into position securely. I also assume that the cap and rotor is installed properly and that wires have not been crossed. I also assume that the timing is close enough to the correct setting to start the engine.

 

ok people we got it fixed! thanks for all the help. It was the distributor the gears were all grinded...thanks again everyone!

 

the 3L must have poor lubrication or an easily plugged gallery to the distributor shaft/gear....we've been seeing numbers of frozen/broken shafts and gears

 

This does happen, but it is very rare. It is a weakness of the 3.0L, but still it does not happen very often at all.