valve rods out
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valve rods out
86' bronco II, had been smoking, took the valve cover off. #1 cylinder, lifter rod was completely out (not broken) how could this happen? also does the 2.9 have hydraulic lifters? ive tried reading other post but adjusting the valves 1.5 or 1.75 should it be done when the valve is opened all the way?
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
2.9s have hydraulic lifters, yes. "Cold-setting" / adjusting the valvetrain is done with intake and exhaust valves closed, starting with the #1 cylinder and working your way through the firing order. IIRC, you snug the adjustment down, and then 1 1/2 turns past that. Haynes, Chilton's, or Autozone's online repair guides have the exact procedure. NOTE: Do NOT allow the lifters to pump up with oil (hence the term "cold setting") or use a remote starter bump switch. Rotate the engine by hand with spark plugs removed and transmission / t-case in neutral using a large breaker bar or ratchet. If you require lifter replacement, though, I believe you have to pull the heads -- or at least the upper/lower intake, etc. I would recommend at least cold-setting the entire valvetrain and then starting it up and running it long enough without the valve covers to check for proper operation -- you can also use a remote starter bump switch just to turn over the engine long enough to check operation as well. You may want to remove the coil-distributor wire even with the key switch left off and everything in neutral (or Park for an automatic), etc. just to be on the safe side. Hope this helps 
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last night, I got the rod in.... I counted the number of turns out for the adjusting bolt, just to see the snugness after putting the rod back in. It was tightened just right. so I guess I will keep an eye on it. Right now Its running really well, no oil burning and a real smooth idle.
the vinside of the valve cover was a mess, really chared. i cleaned it but makes me wonder what the rest of the engine looks like. Im not shure how long this valve rod has been out. when I traded for the tuck It had been sitting for 5 years.and really all i did was replace the fuel pumps and the wiring to the nuetral safety switch. the stumbling of the engine was nurmal i thought( alot like a 86' beamer I had) I ve even taken thiis Truck out wheelin' ( as people say)last week-end and it has done alright. I think alot of it has to do with oil adidives, but after that burnt off it was all down hill. just real emberassing when your truck smokes like a cho cho train.
the vinside of the valve cover was a mess, really chared. i cleaned it but makes me wonder what the rest of the engine looks like. Im not shure how long this valve rod has been out. when I traded for the tuck It had been sitting for 5 years.and really all i did was replace the fuel pumps and the wiring to the nuetral safety switch. the stumbling of the engine was nurmal i thought( alot like a 86' beamer I had) I ve even taken thiis Truck out wheelin' ( as people say)last week-end and it has done alright. I think alot of it has to do with oil adidives, but after that burnt off it was all down hill. just real emberassing when your truck smokes like a cho cho train.
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Valve Lash Adjustment Procedure(s) <-click here. It's under "Routine Maintenance", mostly because some of the older 4-cylinder engines (diesels? or some such) and the 2.8 require periodic valve lash adjustment.
A "remote starter bump switch" is a handheld switch you use to jump the starter solenoid to turn the engine over with the starter without having to use the ignition key switch inside the truck:
A "remote starter bump switch" is a handheld switch you use to jump the starter solenoid to turn the engine over with the starter without having to use the ignition key switch inside the truck:
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this high tech device could cost a fortune... why not use a simple piece of wire to send +12 from battery terminal to starter relay? 
Thanks for the link.
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Posting Guru
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
You're welcome! And yes, I forgot how expensive some things can be over there in Russia, but I would hope that that particular "high-tech device" wouldn't cost too much. Yes, you could use a wire or screwdriver to jumper the starter solenoid... or even make your own remote switch. Anything is better than turning and engine over by hand... sometimes there's not much choice, I guess.
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